New Epee Point Screw

Discussion in 'Armory - Q&A' started by rarveras, Sep 15, 2012.

  1. EldRick

    EldRick Podium

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    Just for clarity, the current NEPS screws are magnetic, at least those I bought from f.net are - any moderately strong magnet will pick them up.

    Also, you guys may have missed the old trick of having an on/off switchable magnetized/non-magnetized screwdriver:
    Take any moderately strong pill-shaped magnet. Stick it onto the screwdriver anywhere near the handle end - presto - magnetic screwdriver. Remove the magnet from the screwdriver - presto - non- or barely-magnetic screwdriver.
     
  2. Seprest

    Seprest Made the Cut

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    Because I've only taken one course in physics... Some of my screws stick to my screwdriver, the NEPS don't. I do not rub any magnets on my screwdriver. Why the difference?
     
  3. erooMynohtnA

    erooMynohtnA Podium

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    It's the crystalline structure of the steel. If the steel is alloyed with particular elements in particular structures (such as face centered cubic Austenitic steels), it will inhibit magnetism. It's electrons.
     
  4. Seprest

    Seprest Made the Cut

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    Austenitic steel will only respond to very strong magnets though?
     
  5. erooMynohtnA

    erooMynohtnA Podium

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    Depends. Some display weak magnetism, some stronger, some virtually none.
     
  6. migopod

    migopod Podium

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    This is because in most steels there is going to be some martensite even if it is predominantly austenite. So even in an austenitic stainless steel a very strong magnet may attract slightly, even if the alloy is otherwise not considered to have ferromagnetic properties. Austenite is not ever attracted to the magnet, but any traces of martensite will be.
     
  7. BigEd781

    BigEd781 Rookie

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    So, perhaps a naive question here, but... why the specialized tool? I've always hated specialized/non-standard tools for obvious reasons. What advantage does it give you that a simple (small) screwdriver does not?
     
  8. SJCFU#2

    SJCFU#2 Podium

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    One of the things which differentiates the NEPS screw from every other epee screw on the market is a hole running down through the center of the screw (essentially the screw is a threaded hollow cylinder rather than a threaded solid rod). The bit of the specialized tool has a piece which extends down through this hole, holding the screw in place as you line the screw up with the threaded hole in the epee tip.

    The NEPS screw also has slots so it can be put in with a regular screwdriver, however unless the screw is sufficiently attracted to a magnetized screwdriver there isn't much to keep the screw from falling off of the bitt as you try to line it up with the threaded hole in the tip (which can be a problem with just about any screw).
     
  9. EldRick

    EldRick Podium

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    The post on the tool, which goes into the hole in the screw, also keeps the driver centered and aligned with the slot in the screw and should reduce the chances of bunging up the screw-head.

    With luck that might reduce the number of threads in the Armory forum asking "How can I get this tip screw out now that I destroyed the screw-slot?" You know - the threads where the asker also wants to preserve and reuse the tip...
     
  10. BigEd781

    BigEd781 Rookie

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    Ok, fair enough :). I'm a beginner and haven't had to replace a head yet, so, good to know.
     
  11. rarveras

    rarveras Made the Cut

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    Hi everybody,

    I can see there's been quite much of a controversy about the steel material selection for NEPS screws.

    I think I can say that priorities have been clearly been settled as follows:

    1. Hardness or whatever other mechanical property features which assures that NEPS will keep sticked to point tips (durability) at least as much as AISI304 steel is allowing.
    2. Corrosion resistance
    3. Magnetizing features


    In other words, first the durability which will assures NEPS features working 100% operational the longer duration the better. Once this is achieved, the corrosion resistance in such a stainless steel screw enviroment (barrel and point tip) is of big importance. And in third place, magnetized screws are desirable just for the sake of making easier standard screwdriver operations.


    Thank you for your feedback contributions !!

    BTW, Is there anybody who can give me feedback in his/her NEPS experience.

    Thank you again

    Ricardo Arveras
     
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  12. jkormann

    jkormann Podium

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    Overall, it's been great. Had one interesting thing happen. FWF V2 (the thicker barrel) on my epee. Swapped out the FWF screws for the NEPS with no problem, everything is tight and not coming loose. However, I did notice that the NEPS are a smaller diameter than the FWF screws. This allows the tip to rotate slightly in the barrel.

    The contact spring isn't flat because I needed to cut a link off to pass shims, it was at the top. When the tip is rotated clockwise (right) and pressed, the spring aligns correctly and the connection is made. When the tip is rotated counter-clockwise (left), there must be just enough of a gap from the cut-end of the spring that it doesn't make the full connection.
     
  13. Purple Fencer

    Purple Fencer Podium

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    That's more an issue of the contact spring than the screws. Replace the spring and see what happens.
     
  14. jkormann

    jkormann Podium

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    Agreed and going to do that soon. That the screws allow rotation of the tip which led to the discovery of the problem is what I really ment to comment on. There is some play in the tip because of that too, the tip can wiggle. Again, nothing major just figured I'd mention it.
     
  15. DHCJr

    DHCJr Armorer

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    I apologize to all that this will be off-subject. It is addressed to jkormann, but it is applicable for all who work on their own Epees.

    You should never cut off the bottom of the travel spring. If you have to cut, it should always be the end that goes onto the post of the tip.

    Unless the wire has not been set properly (for example, the old ring has not been removed) it should be adjustable by threading up and down the post.
     
  16. jkormann

    jkormann Podium

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    The spring was all the way up the post. Only option I could see was to cut the spring. I went by 1/4's around the spring until the shim was happy.
     
  17. badpenny

    badpenny Made the Cut

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    I find it easy to shorten the travel by rotating the spring. However, the opposite is more difficult (at least for me.) Is there a trick to this?
     
  18. DHCJr

    DHCJr Armorer

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    Yes, but it will seem counterintuitive. You turn the spring the same way (clockwise) as if you were shortening it. The only difference is you do not push down.

    The reason why this works. The spring is fragile. If you did it how you think it should be done (counterclockwise) all you will do is open up the spring loops and it will not stay in place. When you turn clockwise without pushing down the spring will jump the threads, thus taking it further off the post.

    Pulling is not recommended. I don't know how many fencers stretch their weight springs, but I have seen many over the years that appear that they just grab the ends and pull. This is very bad. What it does is have the weakest point at the center, which means more movement at that point. Suppose it moves to the side and comes in contact with the barrel, especially in Foil. One end should be stretched and that end should go down.
     
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  19. EldRick

    EldRick Podium

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    I had one issue with the NEPS: I tried to replace the screws in a LP FIE point from last year - the nitride-coated gold-colored one. For some reason, the NEPS screw wedged the tip solid - it would not move. With the NEPS fully inserted, it stuck in the slot.

    I don't know if these tips had slightly different dimensions on the slot, or if perhaps I somehow cocked the screw in the hole, but I replaced the LP screw and it was OK, then tried the NEPS again with the same result, so I went back to the LP screws. I should probably try this again with another blade, as I've had good results with the NEPS in this year's LP FIE tip.
     
  20. rarveras

    rarveras Made the Cut

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    I was about to buy some of LP TiN point's ( gold ones) to try them with NEPS and I have found they are no more beeing offered to sale. I checked in different LP webs form different countries and I haven't been able to find LP TiN points for sale. It seems that if there is a problem with NEPS in last year LP TiN points, it will probably diminish in scope as TiN points will not be supplied any more (to be confirmed)

    Can anybody confirm LP has given up supplying TiN (Golden) Tips?

    Thanks in advance
     

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