[foil] rewiring chain and glue question,

Discussion in 'Armory - Q&A' started by outlawsteveoaos, Apr 30, 2005.

  1. outlawsteveoaos

    outlawsteveoaos Rookie

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    so i'm rewiring a blade b/c the wire snapped after trying to change a bodycord plug.

    borrowing some of the club stuff, i got a copper tube w/ end caps for the acetone bath. went to walmart and got nail polish remover, and then i went to michaels and got super glue. it's zap a gap ca+. it's the green bottle, not pink, is it alright?

    second question, how do i know how much bend i should put in the blade when i hook it up to the chain? like how far should the caps be from each other on the chain? it's for a france lame blade.

    thanx again for the help,

    outlaw steveo aos
     
  2. DHCJr

    DHCJr Armorer

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    The type of blade is not as important as how you fence. A general rule of thumb is approximately how much you bend the blade when you fence or slightly more.

    For example someone who places the blade on their opponent and then retreat would bend the blade less than someone noted for their whipping of the blade.

    When I do club blades, I usually go about a fist and a half of bend as an average.
     
  3. outlawsteveoaos

    outlawsteveoaos Rookie

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    sounds good thanks. another question, the wire insulation that goes behind the guard. any idea where i can get it b'sides online from a vendor? can i use heat shrink tubing? and how long does it have to be?

    outlaw steveo aos
     
  4. mrbiggs

    mrbiggs Podium

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    Long enough to insulate it from the bellguard. I doubt that there's any restrictions on it so long as it's electric and can't hide a switch or anything, but you'll have to wait for someone important to answer that more accurately.
     
  5. WhipLash

    WhipLash Rookie

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    well i'm not important, but as i recall some ppl dun even use the insulator. some use electrical tape. i've seen someone in my club take an ordinary insulated copper wire of sufficient width, remove the wire with pliers and then use the insulation on the foil wire.
     
  6. DHCJr

    DHCJr Armorer

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    It must go completely from the guard to the connector as been said above. Heat shrink tubing is not flexible in the sense that is bends rather than curves. It will work, but not very well.

    It is harder to find now, but you might try some electronic stores, especially surplus. Most you will find will either be too big, or clear.

    Being in the NJ area, if you get a chance to talk to Joe Byrnes or Ted Li, if you only need a little, they may have some scraps and be able to tell you someplace local.
     
  7. CvilleFencer

    CvilleFencer Podium

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    I always get my wire tubing from Leon Paul. They sell a huge amount for like $2. I do A LOT of blades and I only need to order 3 or 4 bundles a year. If you are not armouring for a club or a business it should last you a year or more. Just make sure you get the 1mm variety and not the tang cover sheathing. Heres a link: http://www.leonpaulusa.com/fencing/acatalog/Shop_Home_Tools_and_Test_55.html
     
  8. Purple Fencer

    Purple Fencer Podium

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    You could also get the tubing in a variety of colors from Tim Loomis at YeOldArmorer.com

    It's a bit bigger in diameter than the stuff you could get at, say, Fencing Post, but I find the inside diameter makes it quite easy to get it on, particularly on French wires.


    I buy the purple stuff...helps me spot weapons I've worked on.
     
  9. outlawsteveoaos

    outlawsteveoaos Rookie

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    thanx again,
     

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