Epee barrel won't come off?

Discussion in 'Armory - Q&A' started by Ronan Rgvd, Jun 19, 2017.

  1. Ronan Rgvd

    Ronan Rgvd Made the Cut

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    I've got a barrel which won't come off even after applying a considerable amount of strength using the 6mm spanner and i'm afraid it might snap the blade if i put anymore force. Any ideas how can i remove it?
     
  2. jkormann

    jkormann Podium

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    Determine how it was attached. Weld, lock-tite blue, lock-tite red, etc.
     
  3. Ronan Rgvd

    Ronan Rgvd Made the Cut

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    It was wired by allstar itself so i assumed that maybe it got glued to the thread.If so is there any way to remove it?
     
  4. dcchew

    dcchew Podium

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    I use two wrenches to remove blade barrels. I use a 6mm open end wrench on the barrel and a small crescent wrench on the blade. The trick is to place the crescent wrench onto the blade just below the barrel. This way, you avoid having the length of the blade act as a torsion spring. The barrel should come off with a bit of force.
     
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  5. Ronan Rgvd

    Ronan Rgvd Made the Cut

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    Ok thx i will try it out.
     
  6. Fairfield_Fencing_Armory

    Fairfield_Fencing_Armory Rookie

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    There are a few ways that I have seen work in no particular order:
    1) You could try soaking the blade in laquer thinner-maybe your shop already has a tube set up for soaking blades. Watch out for the fumes; they'll make you pretty dizzy. Some people don't use laquer thinner on the blades, but I think it's ok.
    2) You could get a solid grip right below the barrel and torque it off, but you're right, you won't know if you're using too much force until it's too late.
    3) You could apply some heat to the barrel, but don't heat up the blade or you will change its structure on a crystaline level which potentially could make it bend or snap more easily. In any case, you would have to throw the barrel out after heating it.
    4) You could use liquid wrench and wait for it to soak in before torquing it.

    The barrel is designed to come off.
     
  7. Ronan Rgvd

    Ronan Rgvd Made the Cut

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    Thanks for those tips guys.Unfortunately i live in a country where there are no sort of fencing clubs and there are only 2 fencers including me who fence in FIE competitions so armourers aren't accessible
     
  8. neevel

    neevel Armorer

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    The amount of heat needed to get the barrel off if held on by red Loctite or glue will be nowhere near enough to affect the heat treatment of the barrel or blade. Just use a soldering gun held to the barrel at the flats. Place the blade point up in a vise, apply heat for 10-20 seconds, try to loosen the barrel with two wrenches as Dwight describes above, heat again for 10-20 seconds if still not turning, and keep repeating until you get it to turn. The main risk is that you'll melt the plastic contact cup in the barrel, which will then be difficult to remove (hence the approach of applying the soldering gun just a bit at a time). Once the barrel is off and the contact cup removed, it's fine to reuse. A Dremel wire-wheel can be used to clean off the threading on the blade.
     
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  9. Purple Fencer

    Purple Fencer Podium

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    Not for your current issue, but for the future...

    http://www.homfencing.com/instructional-videos.html

    If there's any problem you want to see, let me know and I'll see if I can shoot a vid of it.

    Also, Mergs has a similar page at http://thearmorersstore.com/Videos/Videos.html

    I also HIGHLY recommend buying a copy of his armory book "The Care and Feeding of all Things Fencing" at http://thearmorersstore.com/Books & Printed Stuff.html

    You would be hard pressed to find a more comprehensive armory tome.


    Another variant of Dwight's 2 wrench method would be to put the blade point up in a bench vise, with only a small portion of the blade below the barrel sticking up. I've had to do that with a barrel that was stuck (although not one as tight as yours seems to be)
     
  10. monitorlizerd

    monitorlizerd DE Bracket

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    Leon Paul also has a fairly comprehensive armory guide on their website. Yes, it's aimed mostly at their equipment, but the basic techniques are still useful as applied to other stuff.
     

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