Are there no good questions left?

Discussion in 'Armory - Q&A' started by twisterfencing, May 19, 2014.

  1. Purple Fencer

    Purple Fencer Podium

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    I forget...is Dynamo in Russia or Ukraine? I know Post is having supply issues from StM due to the unrest. Dynamo might have the same problem if they're Ukranian.
     
  2. twisterfencing

    twisterfencing Podium

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    In the mass production of epee blade wires, there are only two companies that solder the contacts, pbt and schermasport. Everyone else is something else.

    We sell almost every blade wire mentioned on this thread, note: we sell FWF, Sport7 but when rewiring or wiring a epee blade, we use the PBT, no volcano cut, super level contacts, never have a pop out when wiring and out of 1000's that we have used, I want to say I have had maybe (2) bad ones. Not bad at all!

    Foil blade wire, yes, we sell all as well, when I/we are wiring or rewiring a blade, we mainly use a twister or pbt blade wire. For the french stuff, sports 7.

    Dinamo, STM, good club blades. Ours are $36 each, its too hard to get these right now, the stm and dinamo plant, where the blades are made/shipped, they are right in the middle of Russia/Ukraine issues, getting them out of the country is sometimes lets say challenging.

    Gary


     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2014
  3. neevel

    neevel Armorer

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    They're both made in Luhansk, which is right in the middle of the current unpleasantness (remember that back in the day Soviet central planners were big on designating one or two cities as the places where <insert your favorite product> would all be made).
     
  4. DangerMouse

    DangerMouse Podium

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    I can't say for sure, but I seem to recall AF telling me that their wires are soldered. Looking closely at an Allstar wire, I can see the crimp marks. I can't find those on the AF wires, so I think they are soldered. For what it's worth, I haven't had issues with either pulling out of the cup except on rare occasions. The couple issues I've had with the AF wires are that the plastic cup isn't finished very well and sometimes there is a burr that keeps if from going into the barrel. A few seconds with some sandpaper or a knife fixes it. And they had a batch of wires where the thread wrapping came off too easily so it was hard to get through the spaghetti. They assure me that they have fixed this problem, but I won't know until our order arrives next week.

    Allstar wire:
    Allstar_wire.jpg

    AF wire:
    AF_wire.jpg

    As for the blades, I haven't bought the Dynamo recently, but I've had issues with QC on the size of the shoulder just below the threading for the tip in the past where they need to be ground down or they split barrels. We've been buying AF advanced blades for club use and they seem to be holding up pretty well. My main goal is to buy wired blades and have the blade break before the wire so I don't need to spend the time rewiring club gear.
     
  5. MHC

    MHC Made the Cut

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    I think the AF advanced ones are the same Chinese company that pretty much everyone has. The Dynamos are noticeably better blades, but they are much stiffer and so that may mitigate against using them as club weapons since that makes them easier to break.

    I think you can order directly from the foundry in China that makes those blades if you are buying them in reasonable bulk. Someone once told me that they have some kind of an annual sale (for some Chinese holiday) and that after the discount, the price works out to around $25/blade (wired). That's a small savings on each blade, but it would add up if you were buying a bunch of them for a club.

    Also, I've never seen one "in the wild" the Triplette's blade are very competitively priced. Supposedly they are made by a different forge than the one that makes all of the Chinese ones, but it's hard to verify this.

    Also, thanks to everyone who has posted in this discussion recently, the information about blade wires has been informative.
     
  6. DangerMouse

    DangerMouse Podium

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    Having bought Chinese blades from other sources, the Absolute ones are significantly better than most of the other ones. I know that they have spent a lot of time on QC in their supply chain and it shows. I'm not saying they are better than the Dynamo, just that they are better than most of the other Chinese manufactured blades.

    The Dynamo blades that we bought for the club a few years ago held up quite well, but they needed the additional work of grinding the shoulder at the tip so barrels could be tightened without splitting. The more recent batches may be better, but they were hard for us to source, so we stayed with the AF blades. Now that AF carries the Dynamo blades, I may try them again in the future.
     
  7. SevenDad

    SevenDad DE Bracket

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    This is a total newb (at least with regard to armory) question, but if on one of my daughter's epees (LP "gutter blade") the wire is starting to come unglued mid blade...I can just hit that with some glue and use the chain device to put a bend in the blade while it dries, right?
     
  8. cfulmer

    cfulmer Made the Cut

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    Was it originally wired by LP or by somebody else?

    If by somebody else, then it was probably originally glued down with CA, which does a lousy job of sticking to itself.

    I'll leave it to the pros here to discuss whether re-gluing is possible and (if so), how. In my experience, though, now is the time to re-wire. When you do, use a dremel or something to rough up the blade so the glue sticks better.
     
  9. neevel

    neevel Armorer

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    If it has just come unglued, then yes you can try regluing it using a CA and the bending chain. I usually like to use the thicker stuff like Zap-a-Gap (green label) or equivalent on epees, especially Leon Paul V-blades. The problem is, sometimes the wire has stretched in which case regluing will be a lost cause and you're better off rewiring.
     
  10. twisterfencing

    twisterfencing Podium

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    Well, just got back from the Dallas NAC, looked over the questions listed in the "Armory" section and not to my surprise, there is not a single "Armory" question listed.

    I started this thread to see if we could start some interesting armory questions, looks like I failed.

    Due to my schedule and work load, I need to focus on tasks at hand. I will look in on the forum at least once or twice a year going forward to see if I might even be able to help. Wish all the best with the fashion questions at hand and hope you have a great holiday season.

    Gary Spruill
     
  11. bobb121

    bobb121 Podium

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    Put some ash under the wire and use superglue to put the wire back down. The ash will give the glue something to hold onto.
     
  12. bobb121

    bobb121 Podium

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    What is the proper way to replace the foam padding in a mask when it starts to come out.
     
  13. Purple Fencer

    Purple Fencer Podium

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    Uhhhh....don't think so. The glue will stick to the ash and not the blade itself.
     
  14. K O'N

    K O'N Podium

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    Yes. The worst thing that happens is that it pops out again. It may grab on and hold fine.
     
  15. bobb121

    bobb121 Podium

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    I have done this and it holds up just fine. The wire is glued down and hasn't popped out since then.
     
  16. K O'N

    K O'N Podium

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    Buy a new mask.

    Failing that, detach the whole padding segment and make a new one, new fabric and foam and everything using the old one as a pattern, then stitch it back in with polyester button thread or something else really strong. Kind of a pain. Makes the LP Xchange thing look like a good idea, doesn't it?
     
  17. bobb121

    bobb121 Podium

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    This is the foam padding that is attached to the flap that goes on top of your head.

    This is not the bib.
     
  18. K O'N

    K O'N Podium

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    I think all the padding comes out of the LP and can be replaced, right?

    Anyway, if the padding is coming out the fabric is probably split and worn and in general just shot. And you can't use tape or anything easy like that, it will get in your hair and cause all sorts of mess. So get the whole thing out and make a new one and sew it back in, as I said, assuming it's a mask that's good enough to bother spending this much time and effort on.

    ETA: A good fabric for this would be sailcloth. Very slick, very tough. If you're in the neighborhood anytime soon I can give you a big piece of an old sail you can cut up and use.
     
  19. Inquartata

    Inquartata Podium

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    Could try a hot glue gun. Once the stuff cools and dries there shouldn't be a sticky-mess issue.
     
  20. Belegur

    Belegur Made the Cut

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    Okay, I'll try another question. Although this one is more rule-based. Why is it still a group 1 offense to ground a non-insulated part of your weapon to your lame (t53.3), when there hasn't been any benefit to doing so for around 20 years now? You'd have thought they would have got rid of the rule by now. Unless grounding screws up the wireless system in some way.
     

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