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Old 02-07-2004, 05:05 PM   #1
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Stainless Steel Lame = Inox Lame?

I have a lame described as stainless steel. Does this make the lame washable? How would I go about washing it?
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Old 02-07-2004, 05:22 PM   #2
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Even copper lame were washable. Do not throw it into the washing machine or in the drier. Wash it as would would delicate clothes. Use something like Snowy or Woolite and a little ammonia, around a cap full per gallon. The ammonia is to counteract your body acids.

The most important part is to rinse it thourghly. When you think you have rinsed it enough, rinse it one more time. Any soap film left on will act as an insulator. Hang it to dry, but not in the direct sun.

Also your lame came folded. That is for the vendors convience and space consideration. Do not fold it again. Like most metals, if you bend and unbend it enough it will break. Also don't stuff it into your mask for the same reason.

When your done for the day, hang it up before you go to the shower.
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Old 02-07-2004, 08:58 PM   #3
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I use these instructions to wash my lame and mask.

http://www.homfencing.com/Washing.html
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Old 02-07-2004, 10:59 PM   #4
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ah yes thankyou, but if my lame isn't inox is washing it bad?
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Old 02-08-2004, 10:47 AM   #5
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No, on the contrary. If you have a copper lame and wash it and rinse it well you will probably extend it's life a great deal. The salts in your sweat will cause thigs to corrode rapidly. As stated above though, be carefull when you wash it. Hand wash, not wringing or twisting. Hang to dry.
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Old 02-08-2004, 09:46 PM   #6
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What if your lame is steel?
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Old 02-08-2004, 10:25 PM   #7
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Whether a lame uses copper or steel strands, you want to wash it with some regularity. Copper lames need to be washed more frequently to mitigate against corrosion setting in. Precisely how often will actually depend on the particular chemistry of your sweat (which is different for each person). Some people have higher acidity in their sweat than others, which will accelerate corrosion.

There are two reasons why you still want to wash stainless lames. One is that some "stainless" lames actually use nickel-plated copper strands-- once the nickel plating gets worn away from use, the copper can start corroding. The other reason, which applies even to genuine stainless-steel lames, is that the build-up of dried salts from sweat can eventually form an insulating layer over the metal strands.

Oh, and the third reason is that a heavily-used lame that hasn't been washed for a long time will really stink.

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Old 03-29-2004, 12:04 AM   #8
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no woolite?

so if don't have and only clorax on hand would be totally killer to just switch that around? i know this is really bad but i think i've had this lame for about 2-3 years without a wash and i've used it pretty heavily. never had any conducting problems or stinkage problems either, luckily...i think all the sweat just got soaked up by my jacket. but now its time...so is there something special about woolite or would any ol' degertent work?

by the way, this is Triplette's Super Heavy Duty stainless steel i believe


eerr nevermind, not stainless steel... " inoxydisable nickel alloy" according to their site

Last edited by Windsor; 03-29-2004 at 12:05 AM. Reason: correction...
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Old 03-29-2004, 12:33 AM   #9
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Washing Lames

As a coach that has to wash lame's on a regular basis I suggest the following.

Fill a sink with warm soapy water and hand wash the lame. Don't use a harsh or abrasive brush. Avoid bleach. When you wash it be sure NOT to twist and mengle it as that will aid in breaking down the lame as much as folding it or wadding it in your mask.

After it's been washed use a sprayer and luke warm water to rinse out the lame very good. When you are finished with it; rinse it a few more times. It's common to think all the soap is out when it is not.

Hang up the lame to air dry. DO NOT pull the lame in a dryer. I avoid direct sunlight or putting them outside.

When done be sure to turn the lame inside out and carefully roll it up. That is the best way to store it. I also recommend storing it with you weapons instead of your cloths but you,ll need a bag to put it in to keep the moisture off your weapons. Like you other clothes be sure to hang them up when you get a chance and let them air out.

with Regards,


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Old 03-29-2004, 01:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpfencing




When done be sure to turn the lame inside out and carefully roll it up. That is the best way to store it.
Turn it inside out and roll it up?? Do you suggest rolling it up to put back in the bag after fencing as well? I haven't heard that one before...
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Old 03-29-2004, 02:52 AM   #11
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Turn it inside out and roll it up? So the metallic sides are against each other? Wouldn't that exacerbate abrasion and scuffing?

I prefer to hang mine on a wooden hanger with a piece of PVC through the sleeves to hold them out away from the flanks. If I can't carry it that way and must pack it I turn my warm-up jacket inside out and put the lame inside it ( nylon side to the metal surface of the lame ) and either roll it or fold it carefuly.

As to detergents Ivory Snow can be substituted for Woolite...and I haven't tried it but I wonder whether you could use shampoo, which after all is made to remove skin and hair oils and can't be too harsh if we use it on ourselves.
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Old 03-29-2004, 12:21 PM   #12
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One more reason I'm glad I fence Epee....

Honestly, though. I heard tale of an old coach who washed our team's Lames in Acetone. Not sure if that was a good idea.
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Old 03-29-2004, 03:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windsor
Turn it inside out and roll it up?? Do you suggest rolling it up to put back in the bag after fencing as well? I haven't heard that one before...
If you need to pack your lame into a bag, rolling it is the best way to do so since it'll avoid folding and creasing the lame.
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Old 03-30-2004, 02:20 AM   #14
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The rolling part I understand, I just don't see why it would be better to have it inside out, with the metal side scraping against the metal side...
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