2-Prong Mr.Chen Body Cord Experience?

[JAySE SUiCiDE]

i'm in the market for new body cords, but then again isn't everyone? i fence 2-prong foil, and i've had uhlmann body cords until now. however, i lost my brand new one () and figure, with my skill of losing things, why pay $30 for something i might lose? so i started looking at the Mr.Chen cords. I'm not tough on my body cords, like, i dont step on them often etc. i just need a body cord that will work for a reasonably long time without breaking.

any other body cord suggestions would be appreciated aswell.

thanks,
~Jes

[labouche]

I just got a Mr. Chen easy to fix body cord. I'm having luck with it so far and everyone I talk to seems to like them so I'd say go for it!
-Elijah

[DHCJr]

The spring contacts on the prongs are a problem, but Mr. Chen knows about it. He will replace the contacts for free. He has also given spare contacts to a number of Armorers he knows to replace them also.

They are not anywhere near as sturdy as the Uhlmanns. Your experience, I hope will remind you to mark your equipment. At the end of the second weekend of San Jose, there were 2 boxes of equipment from fencers. What had names on it, they tried and contact. Most of it had no names and no way to find out who it belonged to.

[JAySE SUiCiDE]

Originally posted by DHCJr
The spring contacts on the prongs are a problem, but Mr. Chen knows about it. He will replace the contacts for free. He has also given spare contacts to a number of Armorers he knows to replace them also.

They are not anywhere near as sturdy as the Uhlmanns. Your experience, I hope will remind you to mark your equipment. At the end of the second weekend of San Jose, there were 2 boxes of equipment from fencers. What had names on it, they tried and contact. Most of it had no names and no way to find out who it belonged to.

its funny..because the one new one i had gotten for christmas, and i lost it a weekend or two later...and its the one body cord i didnt have labeled ohwell..

but the real question is..what color do i get?!

~Jes

[neevel]

While I like Mr. Chen's design concept, the spring casings on the pins are just too fragile. In spite of the fact that he glady replaces them free of charge, it's still a hassle you shouldn't have to deal with. I'd very much prefer he simply use better quality pins and charge the extra $1-2. He'd still have a substantial price advantage over Uhlmann cords.

You might consider buying just the plugs and crocodile clip and assembling your own cord from lamp or speaker wire. The only tool you might not have that's required is a soldering-iron or -gun (for the clip), but someone at your club is almost certain to have one.

-Dave

[JAySE SUiCiDE]

Originally posted by neevel
While I like Mr. Chen's design concept, the spring casings on the pins are just too fragile. In spite of the fact that he glady replaces them free of charge, it's still a hassle you shouldn't have to deal with. I'd very much prefer he simply use better quality pins and charge the extra $1-2. He'd still have a substantial price advantage over Uhlmann cords.

You might consider buying just the plugs and crocodile clip and assembling your own cord from lamp or speaker wire. The only tool you might not have that's required is a soldering-iron or -gun (for the clip), but someone at your club is almost certain to have one.

-Dave

think i'll do this as a project! sadly, i think making body cords is my perfect idea of fun..plus i get to perfect my soldering gun skill! thanks for the idea; i might buy a few of the body cords out at JO's as backups, and also get some of the uhlmann plugs (assuming thats the plug you ment) and some wire at home, then make some more body cords when i come back.

thanks for that idea,
~Jes


edit: Neevel, is there any specific gauge wire i'm looking for?

[JAySE SUiCiDE]

i bought some wire, and will buy the sockets out at JOs and assemble them there. any suggestions as to what connections i get? both uhlmann, both chen, uhlmann 2 prong, chen at the reel connection?

thanks,
~Jes

[Inquartata]

Dave, have you ever tried extension cords for wiring body cords? I figure they're made to carry a higher charge of electricity than speaker wire and are more heavily insulated as well. I've repaired two cords with them and thus far they're holding up much better than the ones I've done with speaker wire...better than the original Uhlmann wire they came with, for that matter.

[KShan5[PrFC]]

Leon Paul bayonet...got two for X-Mas love em. Just hate grounding my sabre.

[Tireur]

Leon Paul bayonet...

I second that.....

[DHCJr]

To the last 3 posters. First on using power cord for both body cord and floor cords. They will last longer up to a point. Because of the extra insulation, you basically have to remove that outer insulation and run just they three wires with their individual insulation into the connector. The problem is breakage most often occurs right at the entrance to the connector, so that extra insulation does not help. Also, the flexibility leaves something to desire running up your sleeve. There are tradeoffs, but it will work.

For those using Leon Paul connectors for sabre. You might get Leon Paul Sabre connectors. Instead of having a all plastic base as insulation, the short is designed in.

Barry, I hope you got my note on my last order about selling just the base, so people can convert Foil connectors to Sabre connectors.

[JAySE SUiCiDE]

i've already got 2 prong everything..

and does anybody know whats up with the SG body cords? some of them have the holes on the connectors so you can see the screws connecting the wire to the pin, and some dont. if this is because of 2 different versions of wire, do the new wires have the holes? though i guess i'm just gonna find out on thursday anyways..

~Jes

[neevel]

BG sells both their basic body cords, which are a straight Uhlmann copy, and the Easy-Fix model which has the exposed screws and transparent wire (better to spot breaks). The Easy-Fix cords cost about $7 more than the basic ones. The pins on the basic cords, however, are a folded-leaf design which is a good deal more durable than the spring-case pins use on the Easy-Fix cords.

Inq.-

Donald pretty well covered the trade-offs for using extension cord cable. Given that you have to remove the outer sheathing (and thus the extra strain relief) right before the plug where you really need it, I don't think the trade-off in comfort is worth it. The better course of action is to keep using speaker cable, but put a layer or two of heat-shrink tubing (as much as will fit) where the cable emerges from the plug body.

The extra current capacity and slighty lower resistance is pretty well meaningless. Ordinary lamp- or speaker- cord in good condition will already have resistance well below the 1-Ohm per line limit, and scoring machines (even ancient relay machines that look like they were salvaged from Frankenstein's laboratory) don't source anywhere near enough current for the capacity of the cord to be an issue.

-Dave

[JAySE SUiCiDE]

Originally posted by neevel
BG sells both their basic body cords, which are a straight Uhlmann copy, and the Easy-Fix model which has the exposed screws and transparent wire (better to spot breaks). The Easy-Fix cords cost about $7 more than the basic ones. The pins on the basic cords, however, are a folded-leaf design which is a good deal more durable than the spring-case pins use on the Easy-Fix cords.

hmm..i think that's rather funny..they sell something that's more durable for less..though i guess the clear wire is what makes it worth more, though if you know what side the break is on, you can tug on each pin, and the one that comes off with wire attached to it is obviously the broken one so you just trim them both then reassemble..i've fixed 10+ body cords (well, im just starting out, so 10+ means all) and none have failed me yet.

think i'll be going with the BG wires..i dont quite like the idea of exposed screws. i loose enough things as it is..

~Jes

[JAySE SUiCiDE]

the only question is..what do i do with the 25 feet of pink and black speaker cable i bought?

~Jes

[Inquartata]

Originally posted by neevel
Inq.-

Donald pretty well covered the trade-offs for using extension cord cable. Given that you have to remove the outer sheathing (and thus the extra strain relief) right before the plug where you really need it, I don't think the trade-off in comfort is worth it. The better course of action is to keep using speaker cable, but put a layer or two of heat-shrink tubing (as much as will fit) where the cable emerges from the plug body.

Not sure I'm following. These are the indoor extension-cords I'm talking about, not the heavy-duty orange outdoor ones; the insulation fits into the plugs, I only have to strip it rom the wire to insert it into the pins...the insulation is slightly stiffer than speaker cable, though, and seems to endure the constant bending at the plug better...

The extra current capacity and slighty lower resistance is pretty well meaningless. Ordinary lamp- or speaker- cord in good condition will already have resistance well below the 1-Ohm per line limit, and scoring machines (even ancient relay machines that look like they were salvaged from Frankenstein's laboratory) don't source anywhere near enough current for the capacity of the cord to be an issue.

And yet, using clear speaker cable, I notice black spots inside the cable, down the wires, on some of the bad cords which didn't respond to clipping the ends and reconnecting to the pins. Can't very well be corrosion...looks like nothing so much as burnt wire.

[DangerMouse]

One other suggestion for body cord ends. The PBT three prong (reel) ends have held up really well for me. They don't have the spinning parts on the prongs that the newer Uhlmann ends do and thus make better contact.

[neevel]

Originally posted by Inquartata
Not sure I'm following. These are the indoor extension-cords I'm talking about, not the heavy-duty orange outdoor ones; the insulation fits into the plugs, I only have to strip it rom the wire to insert it into the pins...the insulation is slightly stiffer than speaker cable, though, and seems to endure the constant bending at the plug better...

Ah, I misunderstood (thought you meant the outdoor cords). In that case, then it might well be of benefit.

And yet, using clear speaker cable, I notice black spots inside the cable, down the wires, on some of the bad cords which didn't respond to clipping the ends and reconnecting to the pins. Can't very well be corrosion...looks like nothing so much as burnt wire.

That can very well be corrosion. Moisture will get down there. Go take a look at a Leon Paul body cord that's been in use for a long time-- you'll see plenty of green cupric oxide all along the interior of the wire, even though the clear insulation is intact. Dark spots also come from the metal dust that results when individual strands of wire break and the broken ends rub together as the cord is flexed (that's one of the best indicators of where a break in a wire is locate, if it's got clear insulation).

-Dave

[Inquartata]

Ah, OK. I didn't see how it could be corrosion in just one spot way down the wire, with "good" wire to either side of the bad area...