Bend in Sabre Blades

[goerge]

It seems that every time i get a new sabre blade, after about three bouts there is a bend in the blade that is irreversible. I use the Y shaped Blade blades and right where the blade merges from the two edge into a single edge, there is always a bend. Is there anything i can do to straighten it? I have tried running it under my shoe but it doesnt work.

[neevel]

When you get a new blade, it's best to pre-train a gentle curve into it before use. That will reduce the likelihood of it taking a kink.

On the blades you are using, the spot where the Y-section portion of the blade merges with the flat foible represents a fairly sudden change in flexibility. It's not unexpected to get a kink occuring there, since the blade below that point suddenly becomes much stiffer. A blade with a more uniform cross section wouldn't have that transition point which is prone to taking a set.

Lastly, Lammet blades (most of Blade's house-brand blades come from Lammet) in general are prone to kinking.

-Dave

[GGK]

Originally posted by goerge
It seems that every time i get a new sabre blade, after about three bouts there is a bend in the blade that is irreversible. I use the Y shaped Blade blades and right where the blade merges from the two edge into a single edge, there is always a bend. Is there anything i can do to straighten it? I have tried running it under my shoe but it doesnt work.

There will, and should be, a slight gentle bend in a saber blade. But if they all kink quickly in the same spot something else is up. Do you hit, beat and/or parry with the edge or flat? Or do you do alot of point work against runners?

[frenzl]

how much bend is allowed?

[DHCJr]

From M.23, no more than 4cm.

[GGK]

Originally posted by frenzl
how much bend is allowed?

For saber no more than 4cm
for foil no more than 2cm
for epee no more than 1cm

Exact quote:

If the blade has a curve, it must be a distinct curve which must be continuous, and the deflection must be less than 4 cm. Blades with sharply bent extremities or which curve in the direction of the cutting edge are forbidden.

[fencinman89]

i thought it was
sabre 4cm
epee 2cm
foil 1cm

[GGK]

nope it's 1cm for epee and 2cm for foil check m.16 and m.8 in the rules

[DHCJr]

Unless your a Junior or Cadet doing any international event. It will be 1cm for Foil.

[GGK]

Originally posted by DHCJr
Unless your a Junior or Cadet doing any international event. It will be 1cm for Foil.

Really? Bizzarro. Any references on that? I deal with Jr or Cdt regularly and I'd hate to give them bum info.

[DHCJr]

The discussion in this forum has been going on for a while in some different threads. To see what has been decided and remember this is only for Junior and Cadets at World Cups and Worlds starting after the Olympics is to check the FIE web site www.fie.ch and go to Communication and then the Escrime magazine #46, page 18.

Besides the 1cm, there is a new required tip with a 2mm travel, which hasn't been manufactured yet by anyone except one company and that as only experimental. There are timing changes in both Sabre and Foil and use of the 750 gram epee weight for Foil.

Remember, this will only start after the Olympics and only International Junior and Cadet competitions.

[GGK]

Thanks for the info

[The0ne]

they better get those tips out, because I'm gonna need to get some then!!

[firebrand]

If the sabre is bent in the right way but beyond the 4cm and is bent in the middle where the tapering begins thus not a continuous bend but a kink, can it be straightened and be safely used? If so how? Also what if it is a maraging blade?

firebrand

[Inquartata]

Yes, sabre blades can be straightened, but in my experience when they take a kink like that it's generally a sign that the end is nigh and a break imminent.

Here's how I curve mine:

Lay the blade on the floor ( carpet is best, or lay a towel down or something ). Put the sole of your shod foot firmly but lightly on it. Run the blade back and forth a few times, until the metal where you wish it to bend becomes hot to the touch. Then bear down with your foot as you draw the blade out from under it, straightening your back and standing up as you do so, bringing the blade up with you. Repeat as necessary until you have a satisfactory curve.

Some people omit the heating step, insisting it does nothing. It's just the way I learned to do it, and it seems to me that warm steel is less likely to snap than cold, but as you will.

Never used a maraging sabre blade and never will, as they offer no extra benefit for the extra expense, so I cannot add anything about their care and feeding.

[GGK]

Originally posted by firebrand
Also what if it is a maraging blade?

Most likely you paid too much.

[firebrand]

I have heard of two brands with contrasting sabre qualities. Leon Paul and PBT. In a sabre which is better, bearing in mind kinks and durability, the flexy LP or the stiff PBT blade? I must add the idea that the non Y rectangular blade might be better, is that true? Does this diserning for durability mean buying a less good blade for tactics?

In the LP advert they mention 3 blades, a stiffer one, then a sheffield metal blade which is more flexible and then the maraging. Is the sheffield metal a waste of money too?

firebrand

[GGK]

Originally posted by firebrand
I have heard of two brands with contrasting sabre qualities. Leon Paul and PBT. In a sabre which is better, bearing in mind kinks and durability, the flexy LP or the stiff PBT blade? I must add the idea that the non Y rectangular blade might be better, is that true? Does this diserning for durability mean buying a less good blade for tactics?

I've used I-beams..they're okay I prefer Y sections. I had a maraging saber for awhile, it was a gift. It did last ~3x longer than the chinese or russian blades I had been using...but I found no real advantage in the blade.
When looking at blades I try to find lighter weight blades with a good balance.
And I would suggest that you practice with the same blades you compete with.
I have no experience w/ either LP or PBT blades

[pkt]

goerge,

I agree with GGK, methinks the problem is with how you use your blades.

I've rarely have ALL my blades bend at that same spot.

Try videotaping your practice to find a clue to your problem.

at the moment, I'm using the 2000 Ukranian blue blades and they are affordable and fairly good. They still break at the junction of the tang and the forte. that said, they're much better than the Allstar baldes I last used. Two of them were faulty: you make a parry and the thing bends like it's got a soft spot...

Of course i still like the pre-2000 rule Vostock blades: light and whippy like a whip! Alas, they are no longer legal...

PK