My lame turned green - Fencing.Net Discussion
topleft topright

Go Back   Fencing.Net Discussion > General Fencing > Armory - Q&A

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-28-2003, 09:03 AM   #1
Just Joined
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1
3inone is on a distinguished road
My lame turned green

After one summer of having my lame tucked away, I found two large GREEN spots, how do I get rid of it and will it work again??
3inone is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
And now for this message...
Go Green members don't see these ads.


Old 11-28-2003, 01:25 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
whtouche's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: North attleboro, MA
Posts: 1,829
whtouche has a reputation beyond reputewhtouche has a reputation beyond reputewhtouche has a reputation beyond reputewhtouche has a reputation beyond reputewhtouche has a reputation beyond reputewhtouche has a reputation beyond reputewhtouche has a reputation beyond reputewhtouche has a reputation beyond reputewhtouche has a reputation beyond reputewhtouche has a reputation beyond reputewhtouche has a reputation beyond repute
Send a message via AIM to whtouche
Well, first off what type of lame`is it? Stainless steele, or copper thread(blue gauntlet, etc).

Discoloration alone doesn't mean the conductivity is lost, but it is sometimes an idicator. Best thing to do is to test it, and if it works Ok. If not, try washing it then test it again.

How exactly did you have it stored?
__________________
"Their interpretation is, however, refuted most elegantly by your system of radioactive atom + amplifier + charge of gun powder + cat in a box"
-Albert Einstein, in a letter to Erwin Schrödinger
whtouche is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2003, 01:27 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
40Saberthieves's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 270
40Saberthieves is a jewel in the rough40Saberthieves is a jewel in the rough40Saberthieves is a jewel in the rough40Saberthieves is a jewel in the rough
Seems to me thats its a copper lame, and that green is rust.
40Saberthieves is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2003, 02:02 PM   #4
xcr
Senior Member
 
xcr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Canada
Posts: 124
xcr is a name known to allxcr is a name known to allxcr is a name known to allxcr is a name known to allxcr is a name known to allxcr is a name known to all
It sounds like oxidisation (sp?) on copper to me. If I remember corectly copper oxide does conduct, but im not sure. If imright about that than it should still work
xcr is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2003, 02:42 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Capt. Slo-mo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: West Coast
Posts: 2,412
Capt. Slo-mo has a reputation beyond reputeCapt. Slo-mo has a reputation beyond reputeCapt. Slo-mo has a reputation beyond reputeCapt. Slo-mo has a reputation beyond reputeCapt. Slo-mo has a reputation beyond reputeCapt. Slo-mo has a reputation beyond reputeCapt. Slo-mo has a reputation beyond reputeCapt. Slo-mo has a reputation beyond reputeCapt. Slo-mo has a reputation beyond reputeCapt. Slo-mo has a reputation beyond reputeCapt. Slo-mo has a reputation beyond repute
Quote:
Originally posted by xcr
It sounds like oxidisation (sp?) on copper to me. If I remember corectly copper oxide does conduct
It just won't conduct very well. You really have to stay on top of the copper thread lames, because allowing the green corrosion areas to form often signals the end of the lame.

That means hanging them to dry after practice (no folds) and more frequent, careful washings than a stainless steel lame.

If the green spots are large, you need to get it tested before then next meet that checks equipment...or you may be in for a bit of unhappiness.
__________________
"Fraud is the creation of trust. And then: its betrayal."
William Black, Ph.D.
Capt. Slo-mo is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2003, 01:17 AM   #6
Armorer
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 1,624
neevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to behold
The key thing is to ensure that the cupric oxide doesn't build up on the metal strands themselves-- that's what will degrade the conductivity. For starters, tucking the lame away isn't a good idea. You want to store it on a hanger where it can thoroughly dry. Next comes the stock advise of periodic hand-washings using Woolite or Ivory Snow and a bit of ammonia, followed by drip-drying. This'll clean off the sweat salts that build up and encourage corrosion.

The backing fabric, once it picks up the green stains, is pretty much green for good. So long as the copper strands woven into that fabric are fine, the lame is still good.

-Dave
__________________
"I love deadlines. I love the whooshing noise they make as they go by."
-Douglas Adams
neevel is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2003, 11:38 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
CarlKnoch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 588
CarlKnoch will become famous soon enough
Send a message via AIM to CarlKnoch Send a message via Yahoo to CarlKnoch
So what is the best product to handwash a copper thread lame with? I've heard Woolite, and I've also heard lemon huice, but what's the best things for it?

(I've also heard about spraying it with windex after washing to get some conductivity back to it.)
C
__________________
Drinks all around!
CarlKnoch is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2003, 02:18 PM   #8
Armorer
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 1,624
neevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to beholdneevel is a splendid one to behold
Woolite or Ivory Snow (I use Ivory, others Woolite) as a mild detergent/soap. A bit of ammonia in the water to assist in dissolving sweat salts.

Windex can work as a quick-fix because it has ammonia in it. However, it can also "work" because it wets the lame, which can artificially lower the resistance if the person testing doesn't remember to allow the lame to dry completely before re-testing.


-Dave
__________________
"I love deadlines. I love the whooshing noise they make as they go by."
-Douglas Adams
neevel is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2003, 03:27 AM   #9
Armorer
 
DHCJr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Long Beach, CA / Las Vegas
Posts: 3,514
DHCJr has a reputation beyond reputeDHCJr has a reputation beyond reputeDHCJr has a reputation beyond reputeDHCJr has a reputation beyond reputeDHCJr has a reputation beyond reputeDHCJr has a reputation beyond reputeDHCJr has a reputation beyond reputeDHCJr has a reputation beyond reputeDHCJr has a reputation beyond reputeDHCJr has a reputation beyond reputeDHCJr has a reputation beyond repute
Quote:
Originally posted by CarlKnoch
So what is the best product to handwash a copper thread lame with? I've heard Woolite, and I've also heard lemon huice, but what's the best things for it?

(I've also heard about spraying it with windex after washing to get some conductivity back to it.)
C
As Dave so well, mild soap and ammonia. Windex will work as a stop gap, but it can leave a residue if you do it to often, so rinse eventually.

As for lemon juice, it was used in cleaning the target area, oh around 70 years ago. It was used when there was only non-electric fencing. It is not good for modern fencing equipment. Lemon Juice is an acid. The reason for the ammonia is to counteract the acids in your body. Ammonia is a base. You don't need to add more acids, which tends to corrode metal.

So no lemon juice.
__________________
Donald Hollis Clinton, Jr.
DHCJr@juno.com

To Teach is to Learn (Japanese Proverb)

Knowing the rule book by heart means nothing, if you don't understand the rules.
DHCJr is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Lame Fabric Mr.Piccolo22 Armory - Q&A 21 05-03-2008 12:21 PM
Lame' KShan5[PrFC] Armory - Q&A 15 04-16-2003 10:27 PM
Lame care StuOS Armory - Q&A 13 12-05-2002 02:00 PM
Lame Recommendations? The Red Feather Discussion Archive 8 09-30-2002 07:34 PM
Large Lame Chop1 Discussion Archive 3 04-16-2002 12:29 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:48 AM.


(c) 1995 - 2007 Fencing Net; Fencing.Net, fdn, Fencing101, Epee101, Foil101, Sabre101 are all trademarks of Fencing.Net, LLC.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. - Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.2.0 RC5 -    Medieval Swords from the online Replica Sword Shop