Fencing.Net - Your Guide to Fencing & Fencing Equipment

D'Artagnan1673 · 03-20-2002, 06:50 AM

I just converted to FIE and I've a few questions concerning their use.

On the sticker, it says that they should be washed at 40 C, is that correct? That means to wash in hot water, and not cold water, right?

Also, the booklet that came with them said that parts should not be added or taken from them, that doesn't include stenciling and so forth?

Also, concerning stenciling and markings. I see a lot of fencers with stripes down their uniforms. What are the rules regarding that?

edew · 03-20-2002, 09:09 AM

Look, the jacket is going to be robust. Wash it in cold or warm water. How a**l can you be about this?

D'Artagnan1673 · 03-20-2002, 09:25 AM

Didn't mean to annoy you with such a stupid question. <img src="graemlins/blah.gif" border="0" alt="[Blah]" /> <img src="graemlins/blah.gif" border="0" alt="[Blah]" /> <img src="graemlins/blah.gif" border="0" alt="[Blah]" /> <img src="graemlins/blah.gif" border="0" alt="[Blah]" />

Peach · 03-20-2002, 09:42 AM

I wash them in warm water (not hot) and I never throw them in the dryer because they turn yellow. I don't know what they will do about the stripes on my new adidas uniform (okay, I splurged at Reno, and I like stripes) so I'll hang onto my old knickers that just have the USA logo on them.

D'Artagnan1673 · 03-20-2002, 10:13 AM

I wonder what would be said about a cross on my non weapon arm, one like a musketeer wore on his uniform. Hopefully, this won't be open to ridicule. <img src="graemlins/jester.gif" border="0" alt="[Jester]" />

D'Artagnan1673 · 03-20-2002, 10:19 AM

Here's a mask question. I like to wash the padding on my Allstar every once and a while. I tend to sweat heavily. I generally dip it in water, scrub w/ soap. I then apply a blow dryer on high and hot to dry the mesh before it rusts(non-FIE). I noticed the last time that I washed it that rust marks appeared on my bib right where the bib attaches to my mask, like right under the logo. Any better ways to wash the mask besides that? Are the removable interiors the way to go for a heavy sweater?

Zelda · 03-20-2002, 11:43 AM

Removeable (or semiremoveable) bibs such as the France Lame ones are great! Except when you live in a halls of residence and there is no shower extension on the bathtub (DONT ASK!)

damianip · 03-20-2002, 11:46 AM

[quote]Originally posted by D'Artagnan1673:
Here's a mask question. I like to wash the padding on my Allstar every once and a while. I tend to sweat heavily. I generally dip it in water, scrub w/ soap. I then apply a blow dryer on high and hot to dry the mesh before it rusts(non-FIE). I noticed the last time that I washed it that rust marks appeared on my bib right where the bib attaches to my mask, like right under the logo. Any better ways to wash the mask besides that? Are the removable interiors the way to go for a heavy sweater?<hr></blockquote>

Allstar or Uhlmann Comfort Plus masks might be your answer.

The Triplette DynaFlows also have removable liners (but not the padding), but I'm not crazy about the mesh.

I wash my Negrini FIE mask about once a month in a sink and use Woolite. I rinse it thoroughly, wipe off the mesh and squeeze as much water as I can out of it. I then let it dry outside or on a radiator, depending on the season. No rust yet after more than two years.

FWIW, I wash all my FIE in cold water and air dry it. Physical strength has nothing to do with chemical stability. While manufacturers have made great strides in improving the UV/sweat/bleach/detergent/skin oil resistance of ballistic fabrics, why take chances?

For the inevitable neck and sleeve discoloration, I keep that at bay with Spray and Wash.

Paolo

neevel · 03-20-2002, 12:34 PM

The recommendation for 40 C water is probably just to help is stay nice and white-- you won't do any harm with colder water. You do want to hang-dry, though, and avoid chlorine bleach.

Putting patches on your jacket sleeve (usually the back arm) is perfectly legit, so long as they're sewn on securely so that a point cant get caught under them. You can also stencil designs on your sleeves and legs.

They way you're washing the mask is about as good as any. As long as you get it dry quickly whatever little bit of surface rust that forms won't do harm. There's a product called something like Whip! that's good for clearing up rust stains. For exposed surface rust on the mesh, a Dremel tool with a wire-wheel will get rid of it, and you can touch it up with black paint afterwards.

-Dave

latenight · 03-20-2002, 12:46 PM

Never wash your mask. The stench of bouts past is a glorious thing.

Peach · 03-20-2002, 12:48 PM

Plus it keeps people from stealing your mask.

D'Artagnan1673 · 03-20-2002, 01:25 PM

I called the fencing post an hour ago. The representative that I spoke with told me that the fencing post as a rule doesn't recommend the comfort plus line of Allstar and Uhlmann masks. I was told that the padding isn't properly held in place and that on particularly rought blows, the padding can be jarred loose, sending the mask crashing into the side of your head

Doesn't sound too fun. I will just continue washing my mask the way I do, making sure that I don't let it stay wet for too long.

neevel · 03-20-2002, 01:47 PM

I've got an Allstar comfort plus mask, and have never had any troubles with the padding coming un-velcroed. I only fence foil, however, and it may be more of an issue for epee and sabre.

-Dave

veeco · 03-20-2002, 02:07 PM

I have had an Allstar comfort mask as well for more than 6 years, and I've never had problems with the padding becoming unvelcroed.

And I fence epee, and I have been in situations where my mask was taking some quite hard blows.

As long as the mask is of the right size, you're fine.

edew · 03-20-2002, 02:14 PM

[quote]Originally posted by D'Artagnan1673:
I called the fencing post an hour ago. The representative that I spoke with told me that the fencing post as a rule doesn't recommend the comfort plus line of Allstar and Uhlmann masks. I was told that the padding isn't properly held in place and that on particularly rought blows, the padding can be jarred loose, sending the mask crashing into the side of your head

Doesn't sound too fun. I will just continue washing my mask the way I do, making sure that I don't let it stay wet for too long.

<hr></blockquote>

If you're taking rough enough blows to dislodge the padding, I'd consider working on distance. This is fencing, not football.

Inquartata · 03-20-2002, 02:25 PM

My, someone is in a cranky mood today...

D'Artagnan1673 · 03-20-2002, 03:14 PM

He's been like this all day.

MHS Fencer · 03-20-2002, 04:15 PM

I've had the Allstar C.P. for nearly two years. In that time been elbowed several times and have even had my mask knocked completely off because of the velcro strap in back coming undone. The padding on the inside of one is perfectly secure, but you might need to replace the elastic strap in back a couple of times.

-Ian

edew · 03-20-2002, 04:57 PM

[quote]Originally posted by Inquartata:
My, someone is in a cranky mood today...<hr></blockquote>

There's cranky, and there's exasperated. To paraphrase Chris Berman, there are no stupid questions, just stupid people asking questions.

[quote] Originally posted by MHS Fencer:
...but you might need to replace the elastic strap in back a couple of times.<hr></blockquote>

It's usually the plastic hook part of the velcro that gives out. Go to a fabric/notions store and buy a small bit of velcro and sew the plastic part on top of the existing part. The sewing part isn't easy, given the awkwardness of holding a mask steady, but it's doable. My mask had a weak "hook" for the velcro since day one. I sew a new piece on and it works great.

Also, don't forget to use the tongue. Make that thing hold the mask in place. Remember, it was just about twelve years ago that no mask had an elastic strap. The only thing holding a mask onto one's head was the tongue.

D'Artagnan1673 · 03-20-2002, 06:58 PM

um... if you are going to be an a**, at least get it right.

My questions were not stupid. They were ignorant questions, not stupid.

The washing part was just to cofirm what I thought, I don't want to go ruining such expensive stuff. My other questions about patches were because no one in my club does that sort of stuff, I needed to ask someone.

And sorry, but if a vendor tells me to buy a item that will make them less money, I think I'll listen to them. It is not often in this world that you find people who are more interested in happy customers than more money. Buying the Comfort Plus line would have made The Fencing Post more money since it is not on sale. Once again, I wasn't showing stupidity, but ignorance.

Next time I have a question that you have no useful comments to, simply don't respond.