washing your lame

[baker_tcfc]

I have read something on this website about washing your lame. But i was interested in specifics, such as:

Whats the best way to clean little spots where there is knoticable dirt/grime?

I want to try and stay away from washing my lame all the time but do want to make sure i take care of it. I bought an Ulhmann lame at this years Summer Nationals in Austin, its not in bad too bad of shape but want to make sure i take good care of it for the upcomming individual and team season where it will probably see signifigant use. Its a foil lame, if that makes a diffrence. Thanks for any help in advance.

[neevel]

Hand wash in warm water with mild detergent (Woolite or Ivory Snow are good choices) and a little bit of ammonia. You can put a bit of detergent directly on spots and let it soak in before washing. Gently agitate by hand (avoid creasing or wringing), and leave it to soak for a bit if it's especially grimy. Rinse off under running water and then let it air-dry on a hanger (I've never seen a lame that wouldn't be dry overnight). For most people, washing a stainless lame once a month will be fine, although if it sees heavy use and/or you sweat alot you might need to do it more frequently. Copper lames need to be washed more often than stainless to keep corrosion in check.

-Dave

[baker_tcfc]

thanks for the info

[fencergal33]

Windex actually works for small spots and rust. just spray a little on and rub, then rinse thoroughly.

-K

[whtouche]

This is true, however I'd consider windex the hail mary of lame` repair. If you've got plenty of time, wash it the old fashioned way(or get an infinite lame if you cant be bothered about such things ) and if your lame is still iffy carry a bottle of windex with you.

At many tournaments, including last years summer nationals when the lame material on the bib of my mask failed, and this years junior sectionals at which my actual lame failed windex has saved it and brought it up to pass inspection.

For people unaware of such miracles however, running around in a large tournament asking random people if they have any windex can be a confusing sight

[neevel]

Keep in mind that the more astute armorers will wait until your lame or bib is fully dry before testing it. A piece of lame that's wet with windex will show a lower resistance due simply to the moisture-- once dry, it may go right back to failing.


-Dave

[rats_foiled_agn]

I had a copper lame, a budget one from Physical Chess, that was turning a pretty blue/green and was beginning to have dead spots so I washed it with woolite and a cap of amonia as has been suggested on this site.

It pretty much didnt work at all after that. I contacted Physical Chess and asked them about it and they said "Copper Lames should never be washed".

Not to down put down any of those who have already commented here, but....

I would contact the manufacturer for any special instructions before washing any lame, particularly a copper one.

Live and learn.

Rat

[neevel]

The East European lames copper lames sold by Physical Chess are very short-lived-- they use thin copper strands, sparsely woven into the backing fabric. If they've already become signficantly corroded (especially to the point of having totally dead spots), then just agitating it could break strands. However, I've washed plenty of the things before they got to the "just about to die" point, and they come out fine. Washing is chiefly a preventative thing-- it can't be counted on to restore a lame that's already dead (though sometimes it can).

The JL copper lames (from Blue Gauntlet and The Fencing Post, for example) are far superior to the east-euro lames (much higher strand density, and more robust strands) if you're on a budget. Unless you run into a Russian at an international tournament selling lames for $25 each, east-euro lames just aren't worth it.

The comment that "copper lames shouldn't be washed" is plain wrong, however. It's the presence of the salts from sweat that are the prime contributor to the corrosion of the copper strands. If you just let them build up rather than washing them off, the lame will corrode much faster (and the built-up layer of salts can act as an insulator itself).

-Dave