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Thread: cleaning

  1. #1
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    cleaning

    How do you clean masks? mine gets all sweaty after fencing and i have no idea how to clean the inside out.. anyone know how? and how do i take care of my foil? i've been wiping it with Wd40 to get the rust off.. but is there anything else i can do?


    ~Chobes~

  2. #2
    Senior Member Array daeceg's Avatar
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    Depending on the lining of your helmet, those premoistened alchohol wipes are pretty good.

  3. #3
    JEC
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Array remise's Avatar
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    I don't have the time to do the dishwasher thing. I just take some carpet or upholstery cleaner and a moist sponge. Spray on the cleaner, wipe off with the sponge. With my kids stinky masks to clean regularly, I need speed and high performance. Usually by the next day the masks look like new. They smell good, too - which is an added bonus.

  5. #5
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    I just use a large plastic basin in the basement sink, filled with warm water and detergent. Dunk the mask in, agitate and work the suds into the bib and lining, rinse off thoroughly under running water, and let air dry. It can take a day or two to dry, depending on the humidity.

    -Dave
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  6. #6
    Fencing Expert Array veeco's Avatar
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    To add up on Neveel's post:

    To speed up the drying process I use a hair dryer to blow hot air on the mask. The key to a fast drying is in the rising. The less detergent there is left soaked in the mask, the faster it will dry.
    • Epee is the Louis Vuitton bag of fencing: only the best can get it, and the rest of the masses must content themselves with cheap knockoffs (sabre, foil)
    • To not recognize the power of the French grip is to be in denial

  7. #7
    Senior Member Array mollusk's Avatar
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    A little bit of bleach helps get any really bad smells out of your mask. Be very careful with bleach though as it may degrade the strength of the bib material. The prudent method would be to wipe a weak bleach solution on the inside material only and not get any on the outer part of the bib. Then wipe clean with clean water.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Array Peach's Avatar
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    Even small quantities of chlorine bleach can be very hard on your skin, and may (some think) contribute to breathing problems. I recommend against it.
    "Arm yourself, Watson, there is an evil hand afoot ahead." -- Dennis Pierce, 2010 Bulwer-Lytton contest, detective fiction category runner-up.

  9. #9
    JEC
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    I agree with Peach. I use Shout spray before putting the mask in the dishwasher. Then, I add Cascade.

  10. #10
    Pho
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    Speaking about cleaning the mask, does anybody have any idea on what paint to use when reinsulating the mask?

    Eric

  11. #11
    Senior Member Array Talyn's Avatar
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    Talking about cleaning... how do you get the green part of your lame off ... you know when you sweat alot the collars become green. Is there anyway of ehhh getting rid of it?

  12. #12
    Senior Member Array Mergs's Avatar
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    Pho,

    I use either rustoleum or Krylon spray paint. Has worked extremely well.
    Remember those who put their lives in danger for your sake.

    For your copy of "The Care and Feeding of All Things Fencing", Second Edition go to The Armorer's Store, Fencing.net or www.homfencing.com

  13. #13
    Senior Member Array a517dogg's Avatar
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    ...I don't wash my mask. I've had it for two years.

    ...

  14. #14
    Senior Member Array Peach's Avatar
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    Thanks for warning us . . .
    "Arm yourself, Watson, there is an evil hand afoot ahead." -- Dennis Pierce, 2010 Bulwer-Lytton contest, detective fiction category runner-up.

  15. #15
    Curmudgeon Emeritus Array Inquartata's Avatar
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    For sheer durability, auto body paint beats most sorts you can buy. Even better if you can bake it on, but that tends to be hard on the fabric, glues and padding. Try leaving it in the sun for a few hours after painting. Though why anyone would want a painted mask when they could have a cool, shiny stainless steel sabre mask is beyond me...

  16. #16
    Senior Member Array poor_nizzie's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Inquartata
    ... why anyone would want a painted mask when they could have a cool, shiny stainless steel sabre mask is beyond me...
    While we're on the topic, does anyone know how to remove the pesky green-blue spots (oxidation? corrosion? chemistry class was so long ago) off sabre masks? On my mask, these spots are mostly in the creases of the bib. Obviously a dishwasher is not the place for an electric mask but...I fear that other methods would compromise the conductivity of the mask! If a photo is needed, I will post one as I did with the blade.
    "Bleeker's mom was possibly attractive once, but now she looks like a Hobbit. You know, the fat one, that was in the Goonies." -Juno MacGuff

  17. #17
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    Copper oxide stains in the backing fabric of lame material are well-nigh impossible to remove. The good news is that, so long as the copper strands themselves aren't corroded over, the lame fabric can still be kept conductive with regular cleanings (Woolite/Ivory Snow and ammonia). If the
    green splotches are aesthetically unacceptable to you, then it's time to start getting stainless-steel lames. Regular washing of a copper lame from when it's new will help minimize the formation of the patina, but probably won't prevent it entirely, especially if you have highly acidic sweat.

    -Dave
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  18. #18
    Senior Member Array Talyn's Avatar
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    Dang... and its a new lame too...hmm

    guess its time to save up for a new lame... after i get a flicky foil and a vniti blade.... o and after an underplastron too...

    Boy it make take me a yr...

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