fencing equipment: questions

Hi guys,

I'm about to purchase some dry foil and sabre equipment (mainly because
electric is a little out of my price range and i'm not competing enough yet
to make it really worthwhile - club equipment for now) and I had a few
questions.

1. Is there much difference between a leather and rubber grip? Personal
preference only? Or does it really make a difference?

2. Is there a substantial difference in quality between the Uhlmann Standard
and Ultra sabres?

3. Again, is there a big difference between the Paul Etoile and Paul France
practice foils?

I will be using them a lot as I already have been wearing the club equipment
a bit thin. I plan to purchase electric a bit later one bit at a time, but I
anticipate i'll always be getting a lot of use out of the dry stuff just
because its quick and convinient.

Thanks guys!

Will Marshall

"Will Marshall"
<w.HateSpammarshall@NOSPAMTHANKSwebone.did.i.menti on.i.hate.spam.conk.
au> wrote in news:3e87691a@iridium.webone.com.au:

> I'm about to purchase some dry foil and sabre equipment (mainly
> because electric is a little out of my price range and i'm not
> competing enough yet to make it really worthwhile - club equipment
> for now) and I had a few questions.

When you buy sabres, *do* buy electric ones. The only difference is the
presence of a socket, anyway, so the price is not as different between
electric and dry as with foil. This way, you will be able to use your
sabres both for practice and eventual competition without having to
replace them.

Don't worry about using a "good" electric sabre for practice - the only
part that will break is the blade, and the blade is exactly the same for
dry and electric.

--Holly

"Will Marshall"
<w.HateSpammarshall@NOSPAMTHANKSwebone.did.i.menti on.i.hate.spam.conk.
au> wrote in news:3e87691a@iridium.webone.com.au:

> I'm about to purchase some dry foil and sabre equipment (mainly
> because electric is a little out of my price range and i'm not
> competing enough yet to make it really worthwhile - club equipment
> for now) and I had a few questions.

When you buy sabres, *do* buy electric ones. The only difference is the
presence of a socket, anyway, so the price is not as different between
electric and dry as with foil. This way, you will be able to use your
sabres both for practice and eventual competition without having to
replace them.

Don't worry about using a "good" electric sabre for practice - the only
part that will break is the blade, and the blade is exactly the same for
dry and electric.

--Holly

"Will Marshall"
<w.HateSpammarshall@NOSPAMTHANKSwebone.did.i.menti on.i.hate.spam.conk.au>
wrote in news:3e87691a@iridium.webone.com.au:

>
> I will be using them a lot as I already have been wearing the club
> equipment a bit thin. I plan to purchase electric a bit later one bit
> at a time, but I anticipate i'll always be getting a lot of use out of
> the dry stuff just because its quick and convinient.
>

It's extremely easy to make a practice sabre into an electric one - all you
need is a socket, insulated pommel nut, rubber sleeve thing, and some duct
tape. Get everything (except the tape) from one of the equipment suppliers.
Total cost about $15.

Pat

"Will Marshall"
<w.HateSpammarshall@NOSPAMTHANKSwebone.did.i.menti on.i.hate.spam.conk.au>
wrote in news:3e87691a@iridium.webone.com.au:

>
> I will be using them a lot as I already have been wearing the club
> equipment a bit thin. I plan to purchase electric a bit later one bit
> at a time, but I anticipate i'll always be getting a lot of use out of
> the dry stuff just because its quick and convinient.
>

It's extremely easy to make a practice sabre into an electric one - all you
need is a socket, insulated pommel nut, rubber sleeve thing, and some duct
tape. Get everything (except the tape) from one of the equipment suppliers.
Total cost about $15.

Pat

"Will Marshall" <w.HateSpammarshall@NOSPAMTHANKSwebone.did.i.menti on.i.hate.spam.conk.au> wrote in message news:<3e87691a@iridium.webone.com.au>...
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm about to purchase some dry foil and sabre equipment (mainly because
> electric is a little out of my price range and i'm not competing enough yet
> to make it really worthwhile - club equipment for now) and I had a few
> questions.
>
> 1. Is there much difference between a leather and rubber grip? Personal
> preference only? Or does it really make a difference?
>

Only personal preference, I believe, although I was once told that
leather lasts longer than rubber. I use plastic orthopaedic grips
anyway, so I wouldn't know.

> I will be using them a lot as I already have been wearing the club equipment
> a bit thin. I plan to purchase electric a bit later one bit at a time, but I
> anticipate i'll always be getting a lot of use out of the dry stuff just
> because its quick and convinient.

Yes, get a non-electric foil, which will be useful for practice even
when you do start competing, but as other have already said there is
little benefit in getting a non-electric sabre.

Bye,

Joe

"Will Marshall" <w.HateSpammarshall@NOSPAMTHANKSwebone.did.i.menti on.i.hate.spam.conk.au> wrote in message news:<3e87691a@iridium.webone.com.au>...
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm about to purchase some dry foil and sabre equipment (mainly because
> electric is a little out of my price range and i'm not competing enough yet
> to make it really worthwhile - club equipment for now) and I had a few
> questions.
>
> 1. Is there much difference between a leather and rubber grip? Personal
> preference only? Or does it really make a difference?
>

Only personal preference, I believe, although I was once told that
leather lasts longer than rubber. I use plastic orthopaedic grips
anyway, so I wouldn't know.

> I will be using them a lot as I already have been wearing the club equipment
> a bit thin. I plan to purchase electric a bit later one bit at a time, but I
> anticipate i'll always be getting a lot of use out of the dry stuff just
> because its quick and convinient.

Yes, get a non-electric foil, which will be useful for practice even
when you do start competing, but as other have already said there is
little benefit in getting a non-electric sabre.

Bye,

Joe

"Will Marshall" <w.HateSpammarshall@NOSPAMTHANKSwebone.did.i.menti on.i.hate.spam.conk.au> wrote in message news:<3e87691a@iridium.webone.com.au>...

> I'm about to purchase some dry foil and sabre equipment

Dear Will:

Congratulations! Buying your own gear the first time out is always an
exciting and confusing time--no fear, soon you'll be arguing brand
names, qualities and preferences with the best!

> ...(mainly because
> electric is a little out of my price range and i'm not competing enough yet
> to make it really worthwhile - club equipment for now) and I had a few
> questions.

I'll just support everyone else here: buy electric sabres; even if
you never use them electrically (and face it, you will!), you can lend
them to a friend in need. No point in buying dry sabres at all.


> 1. Is there much difference between a leather and rubber grip? Personal
> preference only? Or does it really make a difference?

Depends on whose "rubber" grip you're buying. I'm a dedicated Uhlmann
freak, and I think their blue rubber French grip is one of the best
I've ever handled; all my students agree.

Though I love nearly everything about Triplette, from selection,
construction and service, of late they have TERRIBLE weapons. I
cannot bad-mouth these excerable things enough, so I won't try.

The red plastic French grip that comes on many TCA dry foils is too
big even for adults and so slippery as to be useless in any kind of
engagement--it's hard to even keep it in your hand during a beat you
initiate. Wrapping these grips in baseball bat tape or tennis racket
tape does wonders, but makes them even larger, and harder to use.

The "leather" grip provided by TCA is equally bad for different
reasons, to wit:

#1: it's not actually leather, but some vile bastard child of
Naugahide and Pleather; it is in no way the comfortable, secure, even
stylish leather grip I had formerly come to expect from TCA. Real
leather tightens with age, conforming to your hand while actually
strengthening the handle; phony leather stretches and frays. You do
the math.

#2: It is VERY cheaply manufactured and the square metal cap at the
guard end of the handle has sharp points, which will dig into your
thumb and first finger until you're weeping in agony.

#3: the wood it's wrapped around is substandard, and even routine
tightening of your pommel nut will crack the core after about a year
or so.

Disclaimer: I *love* TCA! They make and provide some of the best
fencing gear in the US, and the bar-none best masks anywhere on the
planet, and in a world increasingly crazed, some of the best customer
service ever. The above is my opinion (developed over the last 5-8
years) about the handles TCA provides on French-handled weapons only,
and I recognise they are probably not responsible for their design or
manufacture. This doesn't mean they don't still suck.

> 2. Is there a substantial difference in quality between the Uhlmann Standard
> and Ultra sabres?

None that you'll notice. Go cheap.

> 3. Again, is there a big difference between the Paul Etoile and Paul France
> practice foils?

Go Uhlmann; I find Paul blades kink too easily, and more often than
not develop an S-curve way too early in life; too I find they don't
break when they should (yes there is such a thing), and they break
sharp, not flat.

> I will be using them a lot as I already have been wearing the club equipment
> a bit thin. I plan to purchase electric a bit later one bit at a time, but I
> anticipate i'll always be getting a lot of use out of the dry stuff just
> because its quick and convinient.

Sounds like every other fencer I've ever heard of--well, OK, some
wealthy types showed up to Beginner Level 1 class day one with a full
fencing bag (and were crushed when I told them to leave it home for 8
weeks).

Good luck to you Will, happy fencing. I hope my opinionated rants are
of use to you and perhaps some others.

Cheers,

Thom Cate
Coach and Owner
Queen City Fencing Club

--
--

"Will Marshall" <w.HateSpammarshall@NOSPAMTHANKSwebone.did.i.menti on.i.hate.spam.conk.au> wrote in message news:<3e87691a@iridium.webone.com.au>...

> I'm about to purchase some dry foil and sabre equipment

Dear Will:

Congratulations! Buying your own gear the first time out is always an
exciting and confusing time--no fear, soon you'll be arguing brand
names, qualities and preferences with the best!

> ...(mainly because
> electric is a little out of my price range and i'm not competing enough yet
> to make it really worthwhile - club equipment for now) and I had a few
> questions.

I'll just support everyone else here: buy electric sabres; even if
you never use them electrically (and face it, you will!), you can lend
them to a friend in need. No point in buying dry sabres at all.


> 1. Is there much difference between a leather and rubber grip? Personal
> preference only? Or does it really make a difference?

Depends on whose "rubber" grip you're buying. I'm a dedicated Uhlmann
freak, and I think their blue rubber French grip is one of the best
I've ever handled; all my students agree.

Though I love nearly everything about Triplette, from selection,
construction and service, of late they have TERRIBLE weapons. I
cannot bad-mouth these excerable things enough, so I won't try.

The red plastic French grip that comes on many TCA dry foils is too
big even for adults and so slippery as to be useless in any kind of
engagement--it's hard to even keep it in your hand during a beat you
initiate. Wrapping these grips in baseball bat tape or tennis racket
tape does wonders, but makes them even larger, and harder to use.

The "leather" grip provided by TCA is equally bad for different
reasons, to wit:

#1: it's not actually leather, but some vile bastard child of
Naugahide and Pleather; it is in no way the comfortable, secure, even
stylish leather grip I had formerly come to expect from TCA. Real
leather tightens with age, conforming to your hand while actually
strengthening the handle; phony leather stretches and frays. You do
the math.

#2: It is VERY cheaply manufactured and the square metal cap at the
guard end of the handle has sharp points, which will dig into your
thumb and first finger until you're weeping in agony.

#3: the wood it's wrapped around is substandard, and even routine
tightening of your pommel nut will crack the core after about a year
or so.

Disclaimer: I *love* TCA! They make and provide some of the best
fencing gear in the US, and the bar-none best masks anywhere on the
planet, and in a world increasingly crazed, some of the best customer
service ever. The above is my opinion (developed over the last 5-8
years) about the handles TCA provides on French-handled weapons only,
and I recognise they are probably not responsible for their design or
manufacture. This doesn't mean they don't still suck.

> 2. Is there a substantial difference in quality between the Uhlmann Standard
> and Ultra sabres?

None that you'll notice. Go cheap.

> 3. Again, is there a big difference between the Paul Etoile and Paul France
> practice foils?

Go Uhlmann; I find Paul blades kink too easily, and more often than
not develop an S-curve way too early in life; too I find they don't
break when they should (yes there is such a thing), and they break
sharp, not flat.

> I will be using them a lot as I already have been wearing the club equipment
> a bit thin. I plan to purchase electric a bit later one bit at a time, but I
> anticipate i'll always be getting a lot of use out of the dry stuff just
> because its quick and convinient.

Sounds like every other fencer I've ever heard of--well, OK, some
wealthy types showed up to Beginner Level 1 class day one with a full
fencing bag (and were crushed when I told them to leave it home for 8
weeks).

Good luck to you Will, happy fencing. I hope my opinionated rants are
of use to you and perhaps some others.

Cheers,

Thom Cate
Coach and Owner
Queen City Fencing Club

--
--

> The red plastic French grip that comes on many TCA dry foils is too
> big even for adults and so slippery as to be useless in any kind of
> engagement--it's hard to even keep it in your hand during a beat you
> initiate. Wrapping these grips in baseball bat tape or tennis racket
> tape does wonders, but makes them even larger, and harder to use.

My club has taken to calling them the "Christmas Trees" [red grip w/ a green
plastic end-cap] and hold them in utter disdain.

Cheap Allstar knock-offs, aren't they?

TCA's leather-wrapped french grips aren't bad, though.

> The "leather" grip provided by TCA is equally bad for different
> reasons, to wit:
> #3: the wood it's wrapped around is substandard, and even routine
> tightening of your pommel nut will crack the core after about a year
> or so.

Yeah, that I can't argue with. I think it feels pretty good *until* it
cracks, though. [It's a sneaky crack, too]

-Bill, MTU Fencing Club

Thom Cate wrote:

>The "leather" grip provided by TCA is equally bad for different
>reasons, to wit:
>
>#1: it's not actually leather, but some vile bastard child of
>Naugahide and Pleather; it is in no way the comfortable, secure, even
>stylish leather grip I had formerly come to expect from TCA. Real
>leather tightens with age, conforming to your hand while actually
>strengthening the handle; phony leather stretches and frays. You do
>the math.
>

I had an epee grip were the pleather started coming off exposing the
wood. I almost found the wood to be a better grip than the leather
cover. But once the pleather ripped it all fell apart and I needed
another grip. Oh well. The idea about tennis tape is an excellent one.
Thanks!

>Disclaimer: I *love* TCA! They make and provide some of the best
>fencing gear in the US, and the bar-none best masks anywhere on the
>planet, and in a world increasingly crazed, some of the best customer
>service ever. The above is my opinion (developed over the last 5-8
>years) about the handles TCA provides on French-handled weapons only,
>and I recognise they are probably not responsible for their design or
>manufacture. This doesn't mean they don't still suck.
>
I buy almost everything from TCA. Walter has always done me right.

--
Amy and Joseph Kormann

Thom Cate wrote:

>The "leather" grip provided by TCA is equally bad for different
>reasons, to wit:
>
>#1: it's not actually leather, but some vile bastard child of
>Naugahide and Pleather; it is in no way the comfortable, secure, even
>stylish leather grip I had formerly come to expect from TCA. Real
>leather tightens with age, conforming to your hand while actually
>strengthening the handle; phony leather stretches and frays. You do
>the math.
>

I had an epee grip were the pleather started coming off exposing the
wood. I almost found the wood to be a better grip than the leather
cover. But once the pleather ripped it all fell apart and I needed
another grip. Oh well. The idea about tennis tape is an excellent one.
Thanks!

>Disclaimer: I *love* TCA! They make and provide some of the best
>fencing gear in the US, and the bar-none best masks anywhere on the
>planet, and in a world increasingly crazed, some of the best customer
>service ever. The above is my opinion (developed over the last 5-8
>years) about the handles TCA provides on French-handled weapons only,
>and I recognise they are probably not responsible for their design or
>manufacture. This doesn't mean they don't still suck.
>
I buy almost everything from TCA. Walter has always done me right.

--
Amy and Joseph Kormann

Thanks for everyones advice, this has cleared things up for me greatly!

If I have any more questions, i'll know where to ask. :-)

- Will


"Thom Cate" <tcate@zoo.uvm.edu> wrote in message
news:4c1bba3.0304011117.765f3290@posting.google.co m...
> "Will Marshall"
<w.HateSpammarshall@NOSPAMTHANKSwebone.did.i.menti on.i.hate.spam.conk.au>
wrote in message news:<3e87691a@iridium.webone.com.au>...
>
> > I'm about to purchase some dry foil and sabre equipment
>
> Dear Will:
>
> Congratulations! Buying your own gear the first time out is always an
> exciting and confusing time--no fear, soon you'll be arguing brand
> names, qualities and preferences with the best!
>
> > ...(mainly because
> > electric is a little out of my price range and i'm not competing enough
yet
> > to make it really worthwhile - club equipment for now) and I had a few
> > questions.
>
> I'll just support everyone else here: buy electric sabres; even if
> you never use them electrically (and face it, you will!), you can lend
> them to a friend in need. No point in buying dry sabres at all.
>
>
> > 1. Is there much difference between a leather and rubber grip? Personal
> > preference only? Or does it really make a difference?
>
> Depends on whose "rubber" grip you're buying. I'm a dedicated Uhlmann
> freak, and I think their blue rubber French grip is one of the best
> I've ever handled; all my students agree.
>
> Though I love nearly everything about Triplette, from selection,
> construction and service, of late they have TERRIBLE weapons. I
> cannot bad-mouth these excerable things enough, so I won't try.
>
> The red plastic French grip that comes on many TCA dry foils is too
> big even for adults and so slippery as to be useless in any kind of
> engagement--it's hard to even keep it in your hand during a beat you
> initiate. Wrapping these grips in baseball bat tape or tennis racket
> tape does wonders, but makes them even larger, and harder to use.
>
> The "leather" grip provided by TCA is equally bad for different
> reasons, to wit:
>
> #1: it's not actually leather, but some vile bastard child of
> Naugahide and Pleather; it is in no way the comfortable, secure, even
> stylish leather grip I had formerly come to expect from TCA. Real
> leather tightens with age, conforming to your hand while actually
> strengthening the handle; phony leather stretches and frays. You do
> the math.
>
> #2: It is VERY cheaply manufactured and the square metal cap at the
> guard end of the handle has sharp points, which will dig into your
> thumb and first finger until you're weeping in agony.
>
> #3: the wood it's wrapped around is substandard, and even routine
> tightening of your pommel nut will crack the core after about a year
> or so.
>
> Disclaimer: I *love* TCA! They make and provide some of the best
> fencing gear in the US, and the bar-none best masks anywhere on the
> planet, and in a world increasingly crazed, some of the best customer
> service ever. The above is my opinion (developed over the last 5-8
> years) about the handles TCA provides on French-handled weapons only,
> and I recognise they are probably not responsible for their design or
> manufacture. This doesn't mean they don't still suck.
>
> > 2. Is there a substantial difference in quality between the Uhlmann
Standard
> > and Ultra sabres?
>
> None that you'll notice. Go cheap.
>
> > 3. Again, is there a big difference between the Paul Etoile and Paul
France
> > practice foils?
>
> Go Uhlmann; I find Paul blades kink too easily, and more often than
> not develop an S-curve way too early in life; too I find they don't
> break when they should (yes there is such a thing), and they break
> sharp, not flat.
>
> > I will be using them a lot as I already have been wearing the club
equipment
> > a bit thin. I plan to purchase electric a bit later one bit at a time,
but I
> > anticipate i'll always be getting a lot of use out of the dry stuff just
> > because its quick and convinient.
>
> Sounds like every other fencer I've ever heard of--well, OK, some
> wealthy types showed up to Beginner Level 1 class day one with a full
> fencing bag (and were crushed when I told them to leave it home for 8
> weeks).
>
> Good luck to you Will, happy fencing. I hope my opinionated rants are
> of use to you and perhaps some others.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Thom Cate
> Coach and Owner
> Queen City Fencing Club
>
> --
> --

Thanks for everyones advice, this has cleared things up for me greatly!

If I have any more questions, i'll know where to ask. :-)

- Will


"Thom Cate" <tcate@zoo.uvm.edu> wrote in message
news:4c1bba3.0304011117.765f3290@posting.google.co m...
> "Will Marshall"
<w.HateSpammarshall@NOSPAMTHANKSwebone.did.i.menti on.i.hate.spam.conk.au>
wrote in message news:<3e87691a@iridium.webone.com.au>...
>
> > I'm about to purchase some dry foil and sabre equipment
>
> Dear Will:
>
> Congratulations! Buying your own gear the first time out is always an
> exciting and confusing time--no fear, soon you'll be arguing brand
> names, qualities and preferences with the best!
>
> > ...(mainly because
> > electric is a little out of my price range and i'm not competing enough
yet
> > to make it really worthwhile - club equipment for now) and I had a few
> > questions.
>
> I'll just support everyone else here: buy electric sabres; even if
> you never use them electrically (and face it, you will!), you can lend
> them to a friend in need. No point in buying dry sabres at all.
>
>
> > 1. Is there much difference between a leather and rubber grip? Personal
> > preference only? Or does it really make a difference?
>
> Depends on whose "rubber" grip you're buying. I'm a dedicated Uhlmann
> freak, and I think their blue rubber French grip is one of the best
> I've ever handled; all my students agree.
>
> Though I love nearly everything about Triplette, from selection,
> construction and service, of late they have TERRIBLE weapons. I
> cannot bad-mouth these excerable things enough, so I won't try.
>
> The red plastic French grip that comes on many TCA dry foils is too
> big even for adults and so slippery as to be useless in any kind of
> engagement--it's hard to even keep it in your hand during a beat you
> initiate. Wrapping these grips in baseball bat tape or tennis racket
> tape does wonders, but makes them even larger, and harder to use.
>
> The "leather" grip provided by TCA is equally bad for different
> reasons, to wit:
>
> #1: it's not actually leather, but some vile bastard child of
> Naugahide and Pleather; it is in no way the comfortable, secure, even
> stylish leather grip I had formerly come to expect from TCA. Real
> leather tightens with age, conforming to your hand while actually
> strengthening the handle; phony leather stretches and frays. You do
> the math.
>
> #2: It is VERY cheaply manufactured and the square metal cap at the
> guard end of the handle has sharp points, which will dig into your
> thumb and first finger until you're weeping in agony.
>
> #3: the wood it's wrapped around is substandard, and even routine
> tightening of your pommel nut will crack the core after about a year
> or so.
>
> Disclaimer: I *love* TCA! They make and provide some of the best
> fencing gear in the US, and the bar-none best masks anywhere on the
> planet, and in a world increasingly crazed, some of the best customer
> service ever. The above is my opinion (developed over the last 5-8
> years) about the handles TCA provides on French-handled weapons only,
> and I recognise they are probably not responsible for their design or
> manufacture. This doesn't mean they don't still suck.
>
> > 2. Is there a substantial difference in quality between the Uhlmann
Standard
> > and Ultra sabres?
>
> None that you'll notice. Go cheap.
>
> > 3. Again, is there a big difference between the Paul Etoile and Paul
France
> > practice foils?
>
> Go Uhlmann; I find Paul blades kink too easily, and more often than
> not develop an S-curve way too early in life; too I find they don't
> break when they should (yes there is such a thing), and they break
> sharp, not flat.
>
> > I will be using them a lot as I already have been wearing the club
equipment
> > a bit thin. I plan to purchase electric a bit later one bit at a time,
but I
> > anticipate i'll always be getting a lot of use out of the dry stuff just
> > because its quick and convinient.
>
> Sounds like every other fencer I've ever heard of--well, OK, some
> wealthy types showed up to Beginner Level 1 class day one with a full
> fencing bag (and were crushed when I told them to leave it home for 8
> weeks).
>
> Good luck to you Will, happy fencing. I hope my opinionated rants are
> of use to you and perhaps some others.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Thom Cate
> Coach and Owner
> Queen City Fencing Club
>
> --
> --

On Tue, 01 Apr 2003 18:26:48 -0800, Amy & Joseph Kormann wrote:

> Thom Cate wrote:
>
>>The "leather" grip provided by TCA is equally bad for different reasons,
>>to wit:

>>
> I had an epee grip were the pleather started coming off exposing the
> wood. I almost found the wood to be a better grip than the leather
> cover. But once the pleather ripped it all fell apart and I needed
> another grip. Oh well. The idea about tennis tape is an excellent one.
> Thanks!
>

Additionally you can use any of the "self vulcanizing" tapes. these are
a pure rubber and have no adhesive so that when wrapped around a handle
the rubber bonds only to it's self. No mess from warm sweaty adhesive as
the tape lets go. The tape is found in the plumbing section under the
brand name of "Magic Tape" or in the electrical section as splicing tape.
The second type is usually cheaper.

Earl.

On Tue, 01 Apr 2003 18:26:48 -0800, Amy & Joseph Kormann wrote:

> Thom Cate wrote:
>
>>The "leather" grip provided by TCA is equally bad for different reasons,
>>to wit:

>>
> I had an epee grip were the pleather started coming off exposing the
> wood. I almost found the wood to be a better grip than the leather
> cover. But once the pleather ripped it all fell apart and I needed
> another grip. Oh well. The idea about tennis tape is an excellent one.
> Thanks!
>

Additionally you can use any of the "self vulcanizing" tapes. these are
a pure rubber and have no adhesive so that when wrapped around a handle
the rubber bonds only to it's self. No mess from warm sweaty adhesive as
the tape lets go. The tape is found in the plumbing section under the
brand name of "Magic Tape" or in the electrical section as splicing tape.
The second type is usually cheaper.

Earl.

Another grip option that I really like is the PBT (hungarian) french
grip. Their grips are aluminum with a rubber coating and won't ever
crack. They have a bend in the grip to fit your hand, although it can
be a bit of a pain to bend your tang to fit through the grip. These
grips are also pretty cheap (around $8).

Good luck finding what works best for you,
Adam

Another grip option that I really like is the PBT (hungarian) french
grip. Their grips are aluminum with a rubber coating and won't ever
crack. They have a bend in the grip to fit your hand, although it can
be a bit of a pain to bend your tang to fit through the grip. These
grips are also pretty cheap (around $8).

Good luck finding what works best for you,
Adam