Hiya- I Need help!!

Hiya
I'm new to this group- I'm the armourer for the Uni of Kent at Canterbury-
though that's a bit of a joke title at the moment!
A couple of the club's foils have broken where the wire passes through the
guard- they had been wired fairly recently and I was wondering if there was
any way I could prevent this happening again when I rewire them?
Amy

On Tue, 4 Feb 2003 11:40:08 -0000, "Amy Smith" <aes3@ukc.ac.uk> held
forth:

>Hiya
>I'm new to this group- I'm the armourer for the Uni of Kent at Canterbury-
>though that's a bit of a joke title at the moment!
>A couple of the club's foils have broken where the wire passes through the
>guard- they had been wired fairly recently and I was wondering if there was
>any way I could prevent this happening again when I rewire them?

And hello to you too.

I would recommend that when you rewire that you do not place the wire
under any great stress, ie, don't stretch it when connecting it up to
the socket and leave it in a position to move (minutely) back and
forth through the gap as the blade flexes. Also make sure the
insulation is pushed as near to the guard as you can get it. Sparing
use of electrician's tape is your friend if you need more.

You also need to give the fencers hell about their fencing style, tut,
suck air in through your teeth a lot and mutter about how many pints
it's going to cost them if they continue to ruin your precious
weapons.

Someone more qualified than I will be along in a mo to either correct
me or elucidate further. I loathe foil personally...
--
Cheers,
wreckferret
Use ROT13 to reply ICQ#163264

Did the grip have a cutout for the wire where it takes its right angle bend
from the groove in the blade to the guard?

Did the blade have a slightly bigger groove for the top cm, to allow the
spaghetti tubing to be pushed through the guard to protect that spot where
the wire passes through the guard? Most of the blades I work on have that,
but a few older ones do not. Consider using a dremel tool to create it if
not.

"wreckferret" <jerpxsreerg@hxez.arg> wrote in message
news:as9v3volick4dpbcneo8id1g61idj01ffm@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 4 Feb 2003 11:40:08 -0000, "Amy Smith" <aes3@ukc.ac.uk> held
> forth:
>
> >Hiya
> >I'm new to this group- I'm the armourer for the Uni of Kent at
Canterbury-
> >though that's a bit of a joke title at the moment!
> >A couple of the club's foils have broken where the wire passes through
the
> >guard- they had been wired fairly recently and I was wondering if there
was
> >any way I could prevent this happening again when I rewire them?

Did the grip have a cutout for the wire where it takes its right angle bend
from the groove in the blade to the guard?

Did the blade have a slightly bigger groove for the top cm, to allow the
spaghetti tubing to be pushed through the guard to protect that spot where
the wire passes through the guard? Most of the blades I work on have that,
but a few older ones do not. Consider using a dremel tool to create it if
not.

"wreckferret" <jerpxsreerg@hxez.arg> wrote in message
news:as9v3volick4dpbcneo8id1g61idj01ffm@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 4 Feb 2003 11:40:08 -0000, "Amy Smith" <aes3@ukc.ac.uk> held
> forth:
>
> >Hiya
> >I'm new to this group- I'm the armourer for the Uni of Kent at
Canterbury-
> >though that's a bit of a joke title at the moment!
> >A couple of the club's foils have broken where the wire passes through
the
> >guard- they had been wired fairly recently and I was wondering if there
was
> >any way I could prevent this happening again when I rewire them?

In article <b1o8qp$bfk$1@athena.ukc.ac.uk>, "Amy Smith" <aes3@ukc.ac.uk>
writes:

>A couple of the club's foils have broken where the wire passes through the
>guard- they had been wired fairly recently and I was wondering if there was
>any way I could prevent this happening again when I rewire them?
>Amy
>

It can be a problem when the pad fits under the end of the grip, it can put
pressure on the wire even if there is a groove in the grip.

You can enlarge the hole in the pad so it slips up along the grip a little, or

Trim the hole through the pad on the side where the wire will go through to
relieve the pressure.

If you are fantastically lucky, you may be able to reattach the end of the
wire. This can only be done if you have at least a quarter of an inch of wire
available to you. You have to strip back both ends of the wire one quarter
inch. then using very fine pliers or forceps bend back one eighth of an inch of
wire in a U-shape on both wires. hook the loops together, pinch them closed,
and then solder them together. They must be soldered, a mechanical twisting
won't hold up. You will need fatter spahetti to fit over the splice. Best of
all is to use a short length of heat-shrikable spaghetti which you can then
shrink tight with a candle or hair dryer. Then use your regular spahetti on the
rest of the wire. Prayers also help. Putting several coats of nail polish on
the splice is another way to insulate it.

If I can get that quarter inch of wire, I can usually splice them together
75-80 % of the time. You really have nothing to lose trying.

Bill Hall

..

In article <b1o8qp$bfk$1@athena.ukc.ac.uk>, "Amy Smith" <aes3@ukc.ac.uk>
writes:

>A couple of the club's foils have broken where the wire passes through the
>guard- they had been wired fairly recently and I was wondering if there was
>any way I could prevent this happening again when I rewire them?
>Amy
>

It can be a problem when the pad fits under the end of the grip, it can put
pressure on the wire even if there is a groove in the grip.

You can enlarge the hole in the pad so it slips up along the grip a little, or

Trim the hole through the pad on the side where the wire will go through to
relieve the pressure.

If you are fantastically lucky, you may be able to reattach the end of the
wire. This can only be done if you have at least a quarter of an inch of wire
available to you. You have to strip back both ends of the wire one quarter
inch. then using very fine pliers or forceps bend back one eighth of an inch of
wire in a U-shape on both wires. hook the loops together, pinch them closed,
and then solder them together. They must be soldered, a mechanical twisting
won't hold up. You will need fatter spahetti to fit over the splice. Best of
all is to use a short length of heat-shrikable spaghetti which you can then
shrink tight with a candle or hair dryer. Then use your regular spahetti on the
rest of the wire. Prayers also help. Putting several coats of nail polish on
the splice is another way to insulate it.

If I can get that quarter inch of wire, I can usually splice them together
75-80 % of the time. You really have nothing to lose trying.

Bill Hall

..

A point of disagreement but I believe the use of any tape on the
lines leading in is not allowed. I am open to correction on this
interpretation of the rules as given to me by a director at my
last tournament.

J.

wreckferret wrote:
:
> I would recommend that when you rewire that you do not place the wire
> under any great stress, ie, don't stretch it when connecting it up to
> the socket and leave it in a position to move (minutely) back and
> forth through the gap as the blade flexes. Also make sure the
> insulation is pushed as near to the guard as you can get it. Sparing
> use of electrician's tape is your friend if you need more.

A point of disagreement but I believe the use of any tape on the
lines leading in is not allowed. I am open to correction on this
interpretation of the rules as given to me by a director at my
last tournament.

J.

wreckferret wrote:
:
> I would recommend that when you rewire that you do not place the wire
> under any great stress, ie, don't stretch it when connecting it up to
> the socket and leave it in a position to move (minutely) back and
> forth through the gap as the blade flexes. Also make sure the
> insulation is pushed as near to the guard as you can get it. Sparing
> use of electrician's tape is your friend if you need more.

In article <3E406A54.10603@alamedanet.net>, Jonathan Jefferies
<jonathanjefferies@alamedanet.net> writes:

>A point of disagreement but I believe the use of any tape on the
>lines leading in is not allowed. I am open to correction on this
>interpretation of the rules as given to me by a director at my
>last tournament.

On a foil? Sounds like a brand new referee.

The rule says there can be no tape that could hide a switch. You could use
clear tape.

Bill Hall

In article <3E406A54.10603@alamedanet.net>, Jonathan Jefferies
<jonathanjefferies@alamedanet.net> writes:

>A point of disagreement but I believe the use of any tape on the
>lines leading in is not allowed. I am open to correction on this
>interpretation of the rules as given to me by a director at my
>last tournament.

On a foil? Sounds like a brand new referee.

The rule says there can be no tape that could hide a switch. You could use
clear tape.

Bill Hall

In article <20030204164651.12173.00000396@mb-mr.aol.com>, fencerbill@aol.com
(Fencerbill) writes:

>
>If I can get that quarter inch of wire, I can usually splice them together
>75-80 % of the time. You really have nothing to lose trying.
>
>Bill Hall
I do this quite frequently (when the occaision arises), unless there are other
problems with it: like damaged barrell, loose barrel, or wire popping out along
the blade.

If the groove it wide enough, (especially with epees), I will even put the
splice outside the guard, if I can tuck the spaghetti tubing into the groove -
this is fine for CLUB use!

In article <20030204164651.12173.00000396@mb-mr.aol.com>, fencerbill@aol.com
(Fencerbill) writes:

>
>If I can get that quarter inch of wire, I can usually splice them together
>75-80 % of the time. You really have nothing to lose trying.
>
>Bill Hall
I do this quite frequently (when the occaision arises), unless there are other
problems with it: like damaged barrell, loose barrel, or wire popping out along
the blade.

If the groove it wide enough, (especially with epees), I will even put the
splice outside the guard, if I can tuck the spaghetti tubing into the groove -
this is fine for CLUB use!