I've heard that using acetone to remove the glue can leave a residue on your blade. Has anyone had any problems with this? If so, what do you do to correct it?
I usually go with the tried-and-true scrape the glue out with an old screwdriver method, but I have an epee with a dummy tip that I want to make electric (don't fence dry much anymore), and I think the tip was glued on at the factory, as I can't seem to get it off. Will acetone help with this?
No rush or anything, I've got an electric epee already, but I might as well convert the other to get some use out of it!
Yes, there will be some residue. I normally clean out the groove with a piece of fine sandpaper folded in half and then wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) just to make sure it is clean.
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I used rubbing alcohol myself to clean the blade no sandpaper works for me. Now on the dummy tip take two pairs of vice grips one just another the dummy tip and use the other one to remove the tip holding the other one to keep the blade from twisting.
Tim
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I use a variation Mergs method...a dremel with a diamond wheel cutting tool. it actually sucks as a cutting blade (reinforced fireglass wheel cut far better), but it's good for carving out crud from the groove (acetine residue as well as the shipping grease that collects), as well as crving a wire out if I don't have the time for acetone to do the job. A well-rubbing alcohol-soaked q-tip works well for that last cleaning as well.
Periodically replacing the old acetone (which will have an increasing amount of dissolved glue in it) with fresh acetone
will help cut down on the amount of residue that you get on
blades. Remember to dispose of the old acetone properly, rather than just pouring it down the drain. Most municipalities have facilities where residents can bring waste that can't be put down the drain or left in the trash.
For things like getting up a wire that ended up glued down to the
tang, or a barrel that had glue run into the threading, you can buy
tubes of 'Super Glue Remover' that are gelled acetone which can be applied to the needed spot on the blade without having to immerse it.
I use a propane torch. It not only gets rid of all the glue, it also disinfects the blade. 3,000 degrees Fahrenheit is sufficient, but I much prefer 5,000. 5,000 will leave your blade nice and flicky, much like spagetti. Either propane or a high-powered Ruby based laser. You should invest in the laser over the propane torch because you can use the laser to shoot down alien spacecraft if they bug you as much as they bug some of the fencers on this site.
Originally posted by Catal I use a propane torch. It not only gets rid of all the glue, it also disinfects the blade. 3,000 degrees Fahrenheit is sufficient, but I much prefer 5,000. 5,000 will leave your blade nice and flicky, much like spagetti. Either propane or a high-powered Ruby based laser. You should invest in the laser over the propane torch because you can use the laser to shoot down alien spacecraft if they bug you as much as they bug some of the fencers on this site.
Wow, can you tell where to get one for a good price? I can't seem to find them at the fencing places online, should I check in a specialty store?
So how many times do you guys take to clean the blade? What steps and processes?
Originally posted by Windsor Wow, can you tell where to get one for a good price? I can't seem to find them at the fencing places online, should I check in a specialty store?
Now Now Catal you going to DHCJr all upset again with the propane bit again. Personal a Heat gun from your local hard store works well to remove the wire and glue at once.
Tim
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People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf.
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