beginner questions re saber

My experience with saber fencing is from (long) before there was electric
scoring for saber. I have a non-electric saber, wondering what parts I need
to convert it into electric. Can I just get a socket and attach it somehow?

Also: when I fenced in college many years ago, I was able to start off in
saber, and stayed with that exclusively. Now that I want to get back into
fencing I find that the clubs around here all want you to reach some level
of skill with foil before doing any saber. In fact, there don't seem to be
many (any?) saber masters/instructors available - maybe that has something
to do with it? Or, is this standard practice? I'm currently learning foil -
but I keep wanting to cut to the wrist :-)

On Fri, 21 Feb 2003 02:20:13 GMT, "Patrick C."
<pat@outer*spambloc*reaches.com> wrote:

>
> My experience with saber fencing is from (long) before there was electric
> scoring for saber. I have a non-electric saber, wondering what parts I need
> to convert it into electric. Can I just get a socket and attach it somehow?

There's a little more to it than that.

According to the rules, the socket is supposed to be soldered to the
guard. But in actual practice, I've never seen this checked (in the
USA).

The two contacts in the socket need to be electrically connected to
each other. This is easier to do with 2-prong sockets than the Leon
Paul bayonet type, but it can be done with either kind.

You need to make sure the inside of the guard is insulated, as well as
the grip, the pommel and the last 7-8 cm of the outside of the guard.

If your blade is from the non-electric days, then it's probably not
legal for competition now. The FIE changed the flexibility
requirements a couple of years ago. Sabre blades are now stiffer than
epee blades.

> Also: when I fenced in college many years ago, I was able to start off in
> saber, and stayed with that exclusively. Now that I want to get back into
> fencing I find that the clubs around here all want you to reach some level
> of skill with foil before doing any saber.

Where is "around here"?

-Mark-

In article <3e559dd5.2296933@news.erols.com>, ortonmc+rsf@erols.com (Mark C.
Orton) writes:

>Subject: Re: beginner questions re saber
>From: ortonmc+rsf@erols.com (Mark C. Orton)
>Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 03:43:50 GMT
>
>On Fri, 21 Feb 2003 02:20:13 GMT, "Patrick C."
><pat@outer*spambloc*reaches.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> My experience with saber fencing is from (long) before there was electric
>> scoring for saber. I have a non-electric saber, wondering what parts I need
>
>> to convert it into electric. Can I just get a socket and attach it somehow?
>
>There's a little more to it than that.

Leon Paul now makes sabre-only sockets: they actually have LESS parts!

>If your blade is from the non-electric days, then it's probably not
>legal for competition now. The FIE changed the flexibility
>requirements a couple of years ago.

For competition, you will want a blade that is stamped S2000
Your old blade should be acceptable for some classes and club acctivity, for
now;
If you DO decide to go to competition, get your hands on a S2000 blade at least
a couple weeks (5-6 sessions) ahead of time,
in addition to being somewhat stiffer (mainly at the end), and therefore
behaving differently, they are also slightly heavier, which, over a time will
probably result in a cummulative fatigue affect.


>Sabre blades are now stiffer than epee blades.

Interesting...

>> Also: when I fenced in college many years ago, I was able to start off in
>> saber, and stayed with that exclusively. Now that I want to get back into
>> fencing I find that the clubs around here all want you to reach some level
>> of skill with foil before doing any saber.

Well, this IS (and WAS) a fairly standard approach, although has not really
seen very complete adoption;
(you just happened across a group that, for whatever reason, didn't adhere to
the philosophy, it's hardly heresy.)
Learning in a foil class for a while will be fine, just keep in mind that you
want to do sabre, and it will help.
Starting in foil tends to give the most flexible foundation: you learn the
footwork, which sometimes gets ignored by beginner epeeist, and learn how to
use the point, which usually gets ignored by beginning saberists, AND learn
about priority, which is ALWAYS ignored by epeeists at all levels.

;-)

Have FUN!

clhagenmn@aol.com (CLHagenMN) wrote in
news:20030224200920.12687.00000122@mb-fr.aol.com:

>
> For competition, you will want a blade that is stamped S2000
> Your old blade should be acceptable for some classes and club
> acctivity, for now;
> If you DO decide to go to competition, get your hands on a S2000 blade
> at least a couple weeks (5-6 sessions) ahead of time,
> in addition to being somewhat stiffer (mainly at the end), and
> therefore behaving differently, they are also slightly heavier, which,
> over a time will probably result in a cummulative fatigue affect.
>

Interesting... I've now played with a new s2000 blade and the
heavier/stiffer aspect (particularly heavier) is evident, I didn't
realize this was due to changing standards and not just my particular
samples. Guess it's a good thing I got that heavy duty plastron :-)

I>nteresting... I've now played with a new s2000 blade and the
>heavier/stiffer aspect (particularly heavier) is evident, I didn't
>realize this was due to changing standards and not just my particular
>samples.

A good, cheap, and less heavy s2000 blade is a russian blade (sold at various
fencing outfitters). All sabres inevitably break but this one is fairly
flexible and light compared to the other (and the price difference is worth
it). If you arne' t looking for heavy bblades DON'T buy francelame. Blue
Gauntlet's own sabre blades are alright also, but I'd go with the russian
blade. If that didn't make any sense, please forgive me, I'm kind of tired.