01-16-2003, 12:14 AM
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#1 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Ypsilanti, Mi USA
Posts: 1,589
| Problem with an epee I was putting together an epee the other day. When I was testing it out with my scoring machine to make sure everything was working it seemed allright at first, I pressed on a regular ungrounded surface and got the nice colored light, tried another epee out on its guard no light so that was grounded proper and working and it passed my weight and shim tests and doesn't set off on another weapon's guard. But that little light that is in between the on target and off target lights stays on the whole time its plugged in and it doesn't happen with my other epee's so I think it might be a bad thing. Do you folks have any ideas on what that means exactly and is it something I need to fix for fencing epee?  |
| | | And now for this message... | |
01-16-2003, 12:11 PM
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#2 | | Armorer
Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Long Beach, CA / Las Vegas
Posts: 3,332
| You did not mention what machine, but I am going to guess that the light is for a short. The easiest way to test if that is the case is to plug a foil into one side or make a short between the B and C lines on one side. Plug the Epee into the other side and switch the box to Foil. If no white light comes on, you have a B-C short. As an aside, if that light came on only when you depressed the tip; that would be an A-C short.
Somewhere on your weapon an uninsulated part of the B line has come in contact with the blade or guard. First make sure the spaghetti goes all the way from the nut on the connector through the guard to the blade. Make sure that it has not been crushed under the handle. Make sure there is no excess wire past the nut on the connector. Check the wire down the blade that the insulation has not been removed. If none of these have found the contact and the light stays on there is one more step. The last is most difficult and that is the wires were either twisted or abraded when the blade was rewired or in tightening the barrel. Remove the tip and see if the light goes out, if it does you may have a bent travel or weight spring, check for that. If not take the screwdriver you used to remove the screws and press down at the base of the tip without touching the sides. If the light goes on, it may be rewire time. There is one other thing you can do, but it is not a guarantee, nor is it a permanent solution. Take the screwdriver and put the tip between the two contact nails in the plastic base and turn slightly counter clockwise and see if the light goes out. If it does you have fixed it temporarily, but it can shift back.
On the box you have you can get a touch with that Epee, but that is not the case with all machines.
__________________
Donald Hollis Clinton, Jr. DHCJr@juno.com
To Teach is to Learn (Japanese Proverb)
Knowing the rule book by heart means nothing, if you don't understand the rules.
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01-16-2003, 04:37 PM
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#3 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Ypsilanti, Mi USA
Posts: 1,589
| It was an Eigertech. |
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01-16-2003, 04:42 PM
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#4 | | Armorer
Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Long Beach, CA / Las Vegas
Posts: 3,332
| Yes, then that is the grounding light. Your weapon will work on the Eigertech, St. George and Blue Sky boxes. On most of the others, it will not work until fixed. Let me know if you find anything.
__________________
Donald Hollis Clinton, Jr. DHCJr@juno.com
To Teach is to Learn (Japanese Proverb)
Knowing the rule book by heart means nothing, if you don't understand the rules.
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01-17-2003, 12:11 AM
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#5 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Ypsilanti, Mi USA
Posts: 1,589
| Hmm.. I gave it a good looking over and I don't see any bare wires. I was experimenting with a glue gun to see if it would work for wiring the weapon on the epee. I bet the tip of my glue gun heated up some of the varnish on the wire a bit too much when I was wiring it, so the bare spot is probably buried somewhere under the glue/plastic stuff. I've decided to just rewire it. Back to good ole Mar-Hyde plastic and emblem adhesive I guess. |
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01-17-2003, 09:42 AM
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#6 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: NJ, USA
Posts: 1,110
| Quote: Originally posted by MikeHarm SNIP!!!
Back to good ole Mar-Hyde plastic and emblem adhesive I guess. | Mike,
Try Zap-A-Gap CA+ http://www.pacertech.com/zaphome.htm
I used to use the automotive adhesive, and this is much cleaner, quicker and stronger.
The only drawback is the need for an acetone pipe to clean the blades.
Paolo
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"He is a man of splendid abilities but utterly corrupt. He shines and stinks like rotten mackerel by moonlight."
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