Rust control in high humidity and temperature

[epeefencer74]

Originally posted by JEC
epeefencer74 (Dave?), with such a high humidity and heat (= RUST), how do you take care of your blades/mask? If you feel so, reply starting a new topic under armory. Thanks, Jose.

Well I've used various methods to varying degrees of success. The method that I've had most success in terms of keeping my blades rust free, is to spray some WD-40 on a piece of dry cloth and wiping down the blades after each fencing session and then storing them in individual plastic hoses sealed off at one end. I find that it's almost impossible to keep rust off the blades and mask. I haven't yet gotten a satisfactory solution for mask other than putting them in a dry box. Generally I just air dry them after each session. The blades will still rust, but not as quickly as if I were to leave it out in the open or worse stored in my damp fencing bag. I have found FIE blades and mask seem more resistant to rust than the non-FIE stuff. Still after a while you can see rust spots showing up. If anyone has any suggestions (that won't cost too much money) about how to keep stuff rust free let me know.

Dave

[Inquartata]

If you don't fence sabre you might try a simple paste wax instead of oil ( and BTW WD-40 has additives which make it even less ideal as a rust-preventive than plain oil ). I have used neutral
( clear ) shoe polish for years on anything metal which neither has to be conductive, like sabre masks, or contact the opponent's clothing, like sabre blades. Unlike oil wax does not allow dust motes to "wick" air moisture through the protective barrier to the metal. It also lasts longer...

[JEC]

I use alcohol (preferably 100%) to remove the oil before competing. The reason that FIE blades do not rust as quickly is due to their nickel content. Damianip may have a better explanation as he appears to be in the metallurgic business. (we had a prior discussion about metal fatigue)

[Craig]

I've just kept at putting my fencing equipment in a dry area of the house after wiping it down to cut down on the rust.

I live in GA, so the humidity isn't going to go away and I'm always finding some oxidation on my blades, but using wd-40 to wipe the blades down every week or so does help. I've also moved completely away from non-maraging foil blades; I can remember spending time each week sanding those old blades to get the rust off.

I'm moving this one over to the armory for continued discussion.

Cheers,
Craig

[neevel]

As has been noted, maraging blades (which have a signifcant nickel content) and FIE masks (which are required to use stainless steel for the mesh, unlike non-fie masks) will be resistant to rust, which is another reason to recommend them in addition to durability and safety.

A light coating of gun oil will provide some protection against rust, but when the humidity is high you should count on having to do a regular rub-down with a scotch-brite pad to get rid of surface rust when it starts to crop up. For a bare blade that's going to be rewired, a wire wheel on a bench grinder will clean up rust very thoroughly.

-Dave

[tiger fencer]

White lithium grease also helps prevent rust, it comes in tub form and in liquid spray can version. Spray some on a towel, then wipe on your blade. Haven't experimented with seeing what it would do to superglue, i keep it away from the wire.

Would be interesting to test the different products to see which is best.

As for getting off heavy rust, medium grit sandpaper works well, ~ #120 grit, if you don't have a grinder.

[Purple Fencer]

Bench grinder, baby!! I think I need to replace the polishing wheel...I've worn it down a good bit.

[Inquartata]

Bench grinder? But I don't even KNOW 'er!