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i am also rewiring my foil as well. after rewiring my tip just doesn't sound right. it goes down smoothly but doesnt produce a clicking sound but more of a thumping sound. problem? -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by yearsofwisdom after rewiring my tip just doesn't sound right. it goes down smoothly but doesnt produce a clicking sound but more of a thumping sound. problem? Does the foil work electrically (i.e. normally-closed circuit stays closed except when you press down on the tip and when you do does the normally closed circuit open as soon as you press it down? Does the tip move smoothly when you press it down and return immediately when you release it (reestablishing that normally-closed circuit)? Does the point support a 502 gram weight without registering a touch? Does it pass the foil shim test (maximum 1 mm travel - assuming you can even find a 1 mm test shim)?
If the answer to all of these questions is "yes" then it doesn't sound like a problem (at least not one worth ripping apart a perfectly good wiring job for). -
 Originally Posted by brtech I'm glad you rescued your wiring job. Now we ask: how do you get glue on the wire?
The usual culprit is too much glue.
After you put the blade in the bending chain, and make sure the wire is sitting at the bottom of the groove, start at the top of the blade, holding the tip up and the tang down. Put ONE DROP of glue 1/2" or so from the barrel. Watch the glue run down the blade. You can notice the insulation of the wire turning darker where it absorbs the glue.
When it stops, put another drop an inch or so farther up the blade from that point and watch it run down. It should only take 3 drops or so to get to more than half way down the blade. When it the last drop stops running, turn the blade over and hold it by the chain with both the barrel and the tang up, and the center of the blade down for ~15 seconds. If this is a foil, you can then wipe off any excess glue on the surface of the blade with a paper towel.
Then hold the tang up and the tip down. Put ONE DROP of glue 3/4" inch from the end of the tang shoulder. It will wick up a bit, leaving about 1/2" unglued. Watch the drop run down. Put ONE DROP an inch or so up the blade and watch it run down. It should only take 3 drops or so to go past the point where the glue from the other end stopped.
Turn the blade over again and hold by the chain with the tip and the tang up and the center of the blade down for ~15 seconds. You can wipe off any glue on the surface of the blade with a paper towel. Examine the glue job carefully, making sure that the insulation is saturated with glue. It would be unusual to find any unglued spots if you followed these directions.
Put the chain around a table end, or something else that lets the center of the blade hang down. Let it set up maybe 2-3 minutes for most thin,fast CAs. Then you can take the chain off, and assemble the weapon, although you would be best to let the glue dry for at least 15 minutes before you use it. Thanks for the tips! I always seem to botch up the wire-gluing part of making foils. Turning the blade upside down at the end is so simple and yet so brilliant! -
currently i dont have a inside hex? so i can't put it together and unfortunately... i have already glued the wire in etc. -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by yearsofwisdom currently i dont have a inside hex? so i can't put it together and unfortunately... i have already glued the wire in etc. So go out and buy a 6mm hex Allen wrench - it's probably one of the easiest and least expensive tools you'll ever need for fencing - available at just about any hardware store (or even Walmart if you don't mind having to buy a small set). It may not provide as much torque as the oversized ones that many vendors sell (or a T-handle) but it should be enough to for now. -
Senior Member
Array Hey, if we're talking torque, go for a 6mm hex drive with a 12" ratchet and 4" extension! You can shear a tang in a skinute! -
 Originally Posted by Dusie Thanks for the tips! I always seem to botch up the wire-gluing part of making foils. Turning the blade upside down at the end is so simple and yet so brilliant!
Just be careful not to flip the blade until the glue on the other end is dry. The pen is mightier than the sword...but I wield both -
or rather its outside then... cuz i need the other special T shaped tool. -
 Originally Posted by yearsofwisdom or rather its outside then... cuz i need the other special T shaped tool. You can get that for ~$10 (with shipping) from a fencing website, or you can look for a cheaper one at a hardware store. You just need one that fits a 6mm nut. The pen is mightier than the sword...but I wield both -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by Stormblade You can get that for ~$10 (with shipping) from a fencing website, or you can look for a cheaper one at a hardware store. You just need one that fits a 6mm nut. As an addendum to that, if you're shopping at a hardware store it might be a good idea to bring a grip along to make sure the walls aren't too thick to fit in the hole, and that it's long enough that you'll be able to turn it. -
Senior Member
Array Ream/drill the grip to 1/2" diameter. Then use an 8mm deepwell socket with a 2" extension (page 13, section 1.1.5, TCAFoATF). -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by yearsofwisdom or rather its outside then... cuz i need the other special T shaped tool. Then get the proper tool . As Stormblade pointed out, they're not that expensive, and once you get one you won't have to ream out every other new grip you get (which you will probly have to do if you stick with a standard 8mm socket).
An appropriate tightening tool is probably the one tool every fencer should have (even Inq keeps a wrench in his bag for tightening pommels and he strictly fences saber) -
yup i got one... and it was fine. haha thanks though -
An appropriate tightening tool is probably the one tool every fencer should have (even Inq keeps a wrench in his bag for tightening pommels and he strictly fences saber)
So true. Actually, I can think of a lot of tools that have saved my life at tournaments. Screwdrivers, shims, and a testbox are pretty high up the list if you're an epeeist. Tip tape if you're a foilist. Heck, just buy a toolkit. I've got a big art bin with the expanding shelf whatchamacallems stuffed with every tool I thought might be useful. One of the best purchases I've made. The pen is mightier than the sword...but I wield both Similar Threads -
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