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Senior Member
Array How to Tell What a Blade Is Like Before Assembling It I've read/heard numerous references to individuals choosing particular blades out of a batch of identical blades. Beyond determining stiffness, I have no idea how they can tell what a bare blade will feel like when it's part of a weapon. How can I tell what a blade is going to be like before fencing with it? Have: Leon Paul Blades Size 9.5 used, good condition, 2 RH L Uhlmann Visconti, 1 RH M Uhlmann Visconti, 1 RH M Uhlmann clone Visconti
Want: FWF Epee Points/Barrels, other random epee crap. Trade? -
Curmudgeon Emeritus
Array Same way you get to Carnegie Hall, I'm afraid... Use the Shift key, people! Keyboard manufacturers everywhere are ineffably saddened when you ignore what they made just for you! -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by Inquartata Same way you get to Carnegie Hall, I'm afraid... Here go. Often in error. Never in doubt. -
Senior Member
Array It's tricky. The best thing you can really do is see how flexible it is and how it balances. "When Fascism comes to America, it will come wrapped in the flag and bearing a cross." -
Senior Member
Array If the batch truly contained identical blades, then one wouldn't need to sort through them, would one? I would be very pleased if all the Brand X, Type Y blades were identical, then I wouldn't have to go through the trouble of sorting.
I check the relative stiffness of different blades, and check to see where the blade bends along its length. Too close to the tip, I don't like it. Too stiff, I don't like it. Too soft, I don't like it. Unless it's a new, wired, russian epee blade under $25 with a never-seen-before (or ever again for that matter) type of tip, and an outdated FIE stamp. Then I like it by definition and use it to give/take drills.
How do I define too close and too stiff? Unfortunately its like Inq said. And the best way to get that practice is to go to lots of tournaments with lots of vendors (NAC's, Nationals, big local events) and bend a bunch of blades until you find ones you like.
Aaron
Last edited by acaba; 09-29-2009 at 10:24 PM.
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Posting Hound
Array From Donald Clinton (who's coming back....but for some reason, can't log on right now)
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There is a lot more to checking a blade then what has been described above.
Yes you start off with pushing down on a blade with the flat of your hand, so as not to affect the propagation of the bend. It should be a continuous bend and not just in one place. It should not be too stiff, too flexible or too close to the end.
But you need to look at the blade itself, first starting with the groove. Is it straight and does it stay near the same depth? If not, you could have weak spots.
(note from PF...I had a too-deep groove on an LP FIE foil blade this weekend...diamond wheel popped right through the blade when I was cleaning it....it happens)
Run your fingers down the blade one on each side doing top/bottom and both sides. Does it have a continuous taper or does it suddenly have a valley. That area could be a weak point. Are there gouges or other imperfections?
Look at the threads at both ends. Are they damaged? Are there enough of them? Is there a shoulder at the tip end?
Look at the weld between the blade and the tang. Are there any cracks or irregularities?
Are there a lot of carbon deposits? If this is supposedly a maraging blade, why are they there? Those fancy colored blades can hide a lot of problems.
These blades are all hand-made. If the person making the blade had a bad day, it could affect their work.
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PF again...
I remember the story Dan DeChaine told about the old Scaroni blades....you wanted to make sure you got one made on a Wednesday, because if it was a Monday blade, the guy might still be hung over from teh weekend. Similar Threads -
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