Epee Wires

[Purple Fencer]

The wires should be pushed into the barrel not pulled.

You DO have to pull the wires a little bit, tho...even while pushing the cup in...otherwise the wire might bunch up under teh cup. I think that was what he was getting at.

For me, the times I've had wires pull out have almost ALL been on Sport 7 wires when I was GENTLY pulling the wire into the groove before tying it down and bending the blade.

[Nolano]

I generally like double insulated wires, but a few times I've had a real bear of a time getting the insulation off the socket end. A fairly uncommon occurence for me, usually it just takes a second with the sand paper to get it off. Once or twice now I had to torch it off, and then sand it off to get the wires to conduct.

[counterattack]

I generally like double insulated wires, but a few times I've had a real bear of a time getting the insulation off the socket end. A fairly uncommon occurence for me, usually it just takes a second with the sand paper to get it off. Once or twice now I had to torch it off, and then sand it off to get the wires to conduct.

I just keep a small file and match book in my garage tool kit. You burn the end until black, then file until copper. I have never had any issues using this method. It takes about 30 seconds. It does cause the end of the spaghetti to shrivel, so your spaghetti gets shorter each time you use it, but it is so cheap I don't really worry about this.

-ph

[michaelheggen]

The first time I ran into enamel-coated epee wire, I didn't know it was coated. I spent quite a while trying to figure out how it was that copper wire was non-conductive....

Anyway, I have found that 00 steel wool does a great job of removing the enamel. It also can be use to remove the cloth insulations. About 30-45 seconds and you generally are good to go.

-Mike

[Purple Fencer]

The first time I ran into enamel-coated epee wire, I didn't know it was coated. I spent quite a while trying to figure out how it was that copper wire was non-conductive....

That's a common problem....I always make sure to tell noob armorers about this.

That's one reason I love the German foil wires Gary Spruill came up with...the interior coating's red, so you know it's something else to remove...and you can also tell when it's gone.

[michaelheggen]

Does the equivalent exist for épée? It would be nice to be able easily see when that coating was gone.

-Mike

[Purple Fencer]

Does the equivalent exist for épée? It would be nice to be able easily see when that coating was gone.

-Mike

Not that I'm aware of...although I'll ask Rocky Sorenson (who's making the wires now), if he wants to give it a shot...preferably with soldered connections.

I came up with what I think is a damn fine new design for an epee wire and plan to use Gary's wire, but like so many of my designs, I lack the funds to properly develop the idea.

[cplmontana]

Okay, thanks guys.

Ended up ordering one wire from: Absolute, PBT, and LP.

I'm gonna wire each weapon, which all have the same setup otherwise, and see which one breaks first. It will be a race...to not breaking. Should be fun to watch. Might be on pay-per-view.

[Barry Paul]

I just keep a small file and match book in my garage tool kit. You burn the end until black, then file until copper. I have never had any issues using this method. It takes about 30 seconds. It does cause the end of the spaghetti to shrivel, so your spaghetti gets shorter each time you use it, but it is so cheap I don't really worry about this.

-ph

I think this description highlights the problems with lacquered wire. O.K. for one off not so good when you are wiring 50 off.
cplmontana not sure if you are wiring an epee or a foil, but for both follow our instructions which you can find on the L.P. website. Don't follow the advice from some of the USA armorers about putting a reverse bend in the blade when the wire is wound round the handle this will overstress the wire and risk pulling it out of the plastic cup.

[DangerMouse]

The reverse bend really helps keep the wire in place, but don't use that method for the LP wire or you WILL pull it out of the cup. Using a little reverse bend to better tension the AF and PBT wires should be fine.

[cplmontana]

Okay, noted. Thanks for the notes, Barry and DangerMouse. I will definitely take that into account. Good thing I'm doing the LP epee last...

[Purple Fencer]

I think this description highlights the problems with lacquered wire. O.K. for one off not so good when you are wiring 50 off.

I found no problem when I was doing huge batches of blades...just gotta get in the habit if wiring the same way every time.

Strangely, tho, Sport 7 epee wires only have the cloth wrap....but the FOIL wires -- the ones that have a blue wrap (so they look like Germans to an untrained eye...thanks a lot guys....real smart to add to the confusion) DO have a lacquered layer.

[twisterfencing]

Barry,

In my opinion, dont think its a problem.

The more insulators you have on the wire, the less problems your going to have.

Young re-wirer's do not have the experience nor feel for pulling/pushing wires through and can easily scratch/rip/cut wires in ways we cannot even think of. They need these things to be almost indistructable!

The wires I have (Twister wires) are 3 insulated wires. You have a sample that I sent to Alex.

Yes, there is more work on the open ends of the wires to finish the connection, yet there are less b/c shorts for the younger/less experienced re-wirer's with the double to triple insulated wires.

If you have a wire that has a laquered core, you have a quality wire. If its soldered base to the wire, you have a really high quality wire.

Just a reminder: Keep looking for items long term that will give every fencer the ability to never loose a touch due to epuipment failure! Sounds like a wish, yet its what I strive for!

Gary Spruill

[JEC]

The wires I have (Twister wires) are 3 insulated wires.

Gary,
Few questions:
Triple insulation? ... For epee wires: enamel on the wire, plastic around of each wire, plastic around both wires. Did I get it right?
Are twister wires soldered at the cup?
How much they cost?
Jose

[Purple Fencer]

Gary,
Few questions:
Triple insulation? ... For epee wires: enamel on the wire, plastic around of each wire, plastic around both wires. Did I get it right?
Are twister wires soldered at the cup?
How much they cost?
Jose

I don't think Rocky makes epee wires with the Twister stuff....Gary himself did not (and I sent him old epee cups to recycle!)

For insulation, you have the inner red enamel layer (that is designed to be burned off), the silk wrap, and I think a last dip in something else (Gary?)

[twisterfencing]

Hey Jose, hows it going?

Answers:

Wire:
1. Polymer coating: red in color
2. Neyless coating, looks like a very fine silk
3. Seyless coating, much thicker coating than neyless yet is hard coating activated by a acetone bath. This is the glue for it. It is cured by acetone - perfect for a CA glueing process.

Are twister wires soldered at the cup for foil wires, yes!

Epee wires, I have not come up with a solution to the soldering as of yet. I will not release them until they are in my eyes 100%. The problem with the soldering is that once you sickle a small amount of solder into the contact, then put the wire in to solder, you end up with this cute little bubble at the opening. Now, try to fit this into the base without drilling out the holes. The darn thing just will not fit! I am currently working with a small parts manufacturing company in Utah to help design a system to make it work 100%. Of course, my guy suggested to just krimp them, not happening!


Gary Spruill

Gary,
Few questions:
Triple insulation? ... For epee wires: enamel on the wire, plastic around of each wire, plastic around both wires. Did I get it right?
Are twister wires soldered at the cup?
How much they cost?
Jose

[DangerMouse]

The Lawrence University coach Steve Amich made his own epee wires throughout the time I was there. I think he used some sort of electric arc device. I'm sure he would share his technique if you asked.

[twisterfencing]

Danger,

I had an engineer with the same idea. He came up with a wire wheel that loaded a wire onto the wheel, when it spun up to the electrical connection, a small piece of solder was placed on the wire, with a 220 shock on the brass contact, the solder would automaticly sickle up the contact for a secure bond (solder travels to the hottest point). Only problem was, it burned the heck out of the insulation on the wire. No workie for me.

Gary Spruill

The Lawrence University coach Steve Amich made his own epee wires throughout the time I was there. I think he used some sort of electric arc device. I'm sure he would share his technique if you asked.

[JEC]

Thanks, Gary. I look forward to "twister" wires for epee.
JEC

[DangerMouse]

Danger,

I had an engineer with the same idea. He came up with a wire wheel that loaded a wire onto the wheel, when it spun up to the electrical connection, a small piece of solder was placed on the wire, with a 220 shock on the brass contact, the solder would automaticly sickle up the contact for a secure bond (solder travels to the hottest point). Only problem was, it burned the heck out of the insulation on the wire. No workie for me.

Gary Spruill

Again, I don't know exactly what Coach Amich used, but he said something about using the electric soldering device because it didn't generate heat. All I know for sure is that I rarely broke one of his wires even when I broke a blade. I think more than half of my broken blades still worked with the tip hanging by the wire.