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Leon Paul starter kits I'm new to fencing but after some research I feel I should really get quality equipment that will last a while.
So, my first question is related to sizing. I want to get a chest protector (don't know brand yet) but how should I calculate that into the jacket size?
Next question- is the advance nonelectric saber set worth it? It's a $66USD difference. The prices next to the stuff is what it'd be if bought separately and some I couldn't find the price of
LP economy set: $239USD- Spartan range front zip 350N jacket (ref 001) $56
- 350N cotton plastron (ref 53) $26
- non electric glove with stretch material in the fingers (ref G125) $17
- non insulated mask with 350N bib a wipe down waterproof lining (ref 29A) Non electric sabre with rubber handle (ref 22PE)
- bag(ref 500).
LP advance set: $305USD- Front zip 350N jacket with stretch panels (ref 005) $100
- 350N cotton plastron (ref 53) $26
- glove with stretch material in the fingers (elec/non-electric)(ref G121) $23
- non insulated mask w/ 350N bib, a wipe down waterproof lining(ref 29A) $66
- plain white fencing socks (ref D104) $10
- Non-electric Sabre with Paul Etoile blade and a Leather handle (ref 24PE) bag(ref 500) $56
If anyone can recommend other products that add to roughly the same price please let me know. Thanks a lot -
There's not a whole lot of point in spending much money on non-electric stuff. -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by FrSpike There's not a whole lot of point in spending much money on non-electric stuff. Especially a mask. Which given the equipment, other than the glove, that would be electric specific, wouldn't be all that much of a change.
Thought here is that yes, it'll be a while before you probably start electric, but the mask and glove will last up to that point. -
So the suggestion is to just but an electric set to begin with?
Last edited by RedDinosaur; 06-11-2009 at 11:17 AM.
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Senior Member
Array Yeah, non-electric is a total waste (unless you know you're not going to be fencing electric for at least 5 years). Also, fence epee. Have: Leon Paul Blades Size 9.5 used, good condition, 2 RH L Uhlmann Visconti, 1 RH M Uhlmann Visconti, 1 RH M Uhlmann clone Visconti
Want: FWF Epee Points/Barrels, other random epee crap. Trade? -
In that case...FIE or just 350N? I don't know if I'll ever fence in any international competitions but should I get FIE just in case anyway? -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by RedDinosaur In that case...FIE or just 350N? I don't know if I'll ever fence in any international competitions but should I get FIE just in case anyway? If I were just getting started then I wouldn't spend the money on FIE "just in case" I might someday fence in an international competition. Odds are that it would all be replaced by the time I ever reached that stage.
On the other hand, if I were concerned with safety then I might consider getting FIE simply to reduce the risk of injury or death (which can occur at any level, and not just in competition). This is not to say that you are going to die if you do choose 350N - the risk of significant injury or death will still be extremely low - but it would be even lower with FIE.
No matter what else you decide, you probably should spend extra for a LP X-Change mask. Not only will it provide greater protection to your head (arguably one of the more important body parts to protect) but it will also allow you to change out the bib when it eventually fails the conductivity test (which is usually the first thing to fail on a saber mask). -
Dear Mr. Dinosaur,
Please feel free to call if I can answer any questions.
Bill
Leon Paul USA
404-325-7272 -
 Originally Posted by SJCFU#2 No matter what else you decide, you probably should spend extra for a LP X-Change mask. Not only will it provide greater protection to your head (arguably one of the more important body parts to protect) but it will also allow you to change out the bib when it eventually fails the conductivity test (which is usually the first thing to fail on a saber mask). Thanks a lot. You're right about the FIE...I should just wait. It makes me sad that one day the equipment will break. Is there a big difference between the LP X-Change and the LP x-Change ice? -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by RedDinosaur Thanks a lot. You're right about the FIE...I should just wait. It makes me sad that one day the equipment will break. Is there a big difference between the LP X-Change and the LP x-Change ice? Just the padding. I'd go with the ice padding. I know it was worth it for me when I bought both my X-Changes. "Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the hell happened." ~Cora Harvey Armstrong
Never do anything you wouldn't want to explain to the Paramedics! -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by RedDinosaur Thanks a lot. You're right about the FIE...I should just wait. It makes me sad that one day the equipment will break. Is there a big difference between the LP X-Change and the LP x-Change ice? The LP X-Change Ice Padding absorbs the sweat and takes it away from your body, allowing you to not seem as hot inside the mask. When I got my X-Change mask, I knew I would be spending a lot of practice time with my mask on and even more time with it on at tournaments, so paid the extra money for the Ice padding to keep my head cool.
The other great thing about the Ice padding is it is fully removeable so you can wash it easily when it starts to get funky. However, if you are just starting to fence, and are not purchasing any electric equipment, I do not see the need to purchase a X-Change mask (since they are FIE-rated and much more expensive than regular masks).
The only thing I would disagree with on everybody else is purchasing electric gear. Sabre is the easiest weapon to convert to a tournament-ready weapon. I'm sure your club has sabre masks, lames, and cuffs you can borrow if you decide you want to compete. I would suggest just getting the standard set. I would not be too worried about breaking anything. Fencing equipment is designed to break, so it will happen eventually whether you get the cheap stuff or FIE stuff. As far as clothing goes, I had my old BG mask for 7 years before I decided I wanted a new one (also because I fence foil and epee and wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to spend a fortune if USFA adopts the new foil mask rules), and it was still in such good condition that I sold it to my club. - It's not that I chose to fence, it's that I feel I have to fence. -
 Originally Posted by thekoby The only thing I would disagree with on everybody else is purchasing electric gear. Sabre is the easiest weapon to convert to a tournament-ready weapon. I'm sure your club has sabre masks, lames, and cuffs you can borrow if you decide you want to compete. I would suggest just getting the standard set. I would not be too worried about breaking anything. Fencing equipment is designed to break, so it will happen eventually whether you get the cheap stuff or FIE stuff. As far as clothing goes, I had my old BG mask for 7 years before I decided I wanted a new one (also because I fence foil and epee and wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to spend a fortune if USFA adopts the new foil mask rules), and it was still in such good condition that I sold it to my club. Thanks for the tip on LP masks I did a bit of math and if I get the non-electric set then get the LP X-change mask later it will actually end up costing more. The club does have equipment but every time we use their stuff we have to pay a fee which varies by what we rent. I figure eventually what I pay in fees would have just added up to buying my own.
Anyone have suggestions/sites on where to get a good lame for not as pricey as LP? Or are LP's really that great? -
 Originally Posted by LeonPaulUSA Dear Mr. Dinosaur,
Please feel free to call if I can answer any questions.
Bill
Leon Paul USA
404-325-7272 Thanks Bill
<3 MISS dinosaur =p -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by RedDinosaur Thanks for the tip on LP masks  I did a bit of math and if I get the non-electric set then get the LP X-change mask later it will actually end up costing more. The club does have equipment but every time we use their stuff we have to pay a fee which varies by what we rent. I figure eventually what I pay in fees would have just added up to buying my own.
Anyone have suggestions/sites on where to get a good lame for not as pricey as LP? Or are LP's really that great? I would agree on holding off for now on electric stuff until you've got a few months under your belt and are sure you're going to be competing. My Lames (sabre and foil) are from EscrimeUSA (as are my whites actually) and haven't had any issues with them. I have both an electric sabre X-change and a foil x-change (technically epee since it doesn't have the bib, but whatever...i don't fence epee). If you're dead set on getting electric gear right away, then I'd suggest either LP or Escrime. Both are good companies with good quality equipment IMHO. "Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the hell happened." ~Cora Harvey Armstrong
Never do anything you wouldn't want to explain to the Paramedics! -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by RedDinosaur Anyone have suggestions/sites on where to get a good lame for not as pricey as LP? Or are LP's really that great? LP's are generally considered to be the best of the lightweight lames.
Some people favor a stainless steel lame (such as Allstar/Uhlmann) however it's debatable whether or not they will last any longer.
Absolute probably makes one of the better inexpensive lames however it won;t hold up as long (how long will depend on how you treat it and how corrosive your sweat happens to be). -
Is it really cheaper to buy from Europe and have it shipped? I'm not sure if I really see much differences in price
Thanks everyone for your help and responses. I really appreciate all the advice -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by RedDinosaur Is it really cheaper to buy from Europe and have it shipped? I'm not sure if I really see much differences in price
Thanks everyone for your help and responses. I really appreciate all the advice  At one time it definitely was cheaper (especially with a large order, where you could spread out the shipping cost).
These days, with a less favorable exchange rate (last I checked one Euro was up to about $1.40), increased shipping cost (15-20% vs 4-6% for domestic shipping), and the credit card companies tacking on an additional fee for foreign transactions, it might not be the case. -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by SJCFU#2 At one time it definitely was cheaper (especially with a large order, where you could spread out the shipping cost).
These days, with a less favorable exchange rate (last I checked one Euro was up to about $1.40), increased shipping cost (15-20% vs 4-6% for domestic shipping), and the credit card companies tacking on an additional fee for foreign transactions, it might not be the case. I haven't had that problem. No additional fees were charged (yes, I checked my bank statements). "Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the hell happened." ~Cora Harvey Armstrong
Never do anything you wouldn't want to explain to the Paramedics! -
Senior Member
Array  Originally Posted by Morale Officer I haven't had that problem. No additional fees were charged (yes, I checked my bank statements). If this thread is any indication then you should consider yourself fortunate (care to share which card it is?) -
Senior Member
Array I saw that thread. Never had a problem. Back to the original thread here:
Dino, check your messages. "Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the hell happened." ~Cora Harvey Armstrong
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