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Thread: viniti rewiring

  1. #1
    JTX
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    viniti rewiring

    Do I need to remove the black coating from the groove before rewiring?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Posting Hound Array Purple Fencer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTX View Post
    Do I need to remove the black coating from the groove before rewiring?

    Thanks
    Absolutely....REGARDLESS of the blade brand, you need nice, shiny metal in that groove, or the glue may not adhere properly.

    Even if you've soaked the blade in acetone, clean the groove, because there WILL be a slight residue left behind.

    I find a dremel with a diamond cutting wheel works wonderfully....cuts veeeeeeeeeeery slowly, but clean the groove nicely.

    Whatever method you use, after getting the gunk out, run a rubbing alcohol-soaked Q-tip down the groove to get out any remaining gunk.

    Proper blade preparation is the single most important step in rewiring a blade.
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    Senior Member Array telkanuru's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Purple Fencer View Post
    Proper blade preparation is the single most important step in rewiring a blade.
    Definitely not.

    You need to obtain a wire and a barrel or you aren't doing anything.
    Pedicabo ego vos et irrumabo,
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    Quote Originally Posted by telkanuru View Post
    Definitely not.

    You need to obtain a wire and a barrel or you aren't doing anything.
    But if you're missing those, at least you aren't burning through the cost of the wire by screwing up.

  5. #5
    JTX
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    Actually, I somewhat misspoke in my original post. This is a brand new blade and I'm wiring it for the first time. The black coating is the protective layer put on to prevent rust and corrosion.

    Should I still grind through this till I see the shiny metal?

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    Posting Hound Array Purple Fencer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTX View Post
    Actually, I somewhat misspoke in my original post. This is a brand new blade and I'm wiring it for the first time. The black coating is the protective layer put on to prevent rust and corrosion.

    Should I still grind through this till I see the shiny metal?

    Yes....you want bright metal whether the blade is brand new or not.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Array telkanuru's Avatar
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    But only in the groove.
    Pedicabo ego vos et irrumabo,
    Aureli pathetice et cinaede Furi

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    We don't grind it off...

    That isn't to say that grinding it does any harm just that if you use the right glue (two part epoxy) then you don't need to.

    If I was doing it at home with superglue I would definately grind it off.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Array fencerbill's Avatar
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    But don't get carried away. Didn't someone post in another thread that they had a blade split along its length because the groove had extended right through the blade? You need SOME bright metal, not a completely bright groove, for the glue to adhere to. It is usually convenient to have that bright metal at the bottom of the groove but it could be on the side of the groove.
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  10. #10
    Posting Hound Array Purple Fencer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fencerbill View Post
    But don't get carried away. Didn't someone post in another thread that they had a blade split along its length because the groove had extended right through the blade? You need SOME bright metal, not a completely bright groove, for the glue to adhere to. It is usually convenient to have that bright metal at the bottom of the groove but it could be on the side of the groove.
    That's why I recommended the diamond wheel...it's technically a cutting wheel, but the wheel would not last long enough to actually cut through a blade. The reinforced fibreglass cutting wheels I use to cut tangs...those are a different matter, and totally unsuited for cleaning the groove.

    The risk of the diamond wheel is after it get used for a bit, the edges tend to flsrfe out and it may bind up in narrow grooves.
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  11. #11
    Senior Member Array Robert Smith's Avatar
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    I'd suggest the empirical approach; try not removing it and see how well your wiring job lasts. If it doesn't last, then next time, do remove it. But if it holds together well without removing it, then you've just saved yourself the effort on this and all future blades. I don't think my technique is too far removed from everyone else's, or my failure rate, but I've never taken a dremel to a blade.

    New blades, if they feel oily, I'll soak overnight in acetone. I'll run a thumbnail down the groove to make sure there are no lumps of grit that will make a hump in the wire. Then it's wiring time.

    Old blades, if wired using superglue, I'll treat exactly the same as a new blade.

    Old blades wired with epoxy, I'll curse a lot and grind the glue and wire out with a utility knife, then eyeball and thumbnail check, and then wire.

    Why go overboard when shoddy workmanship will suffice, eh?
    Robert Smith
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    Yes,

    When you grind down the grove (lightly) what you really are doing is lifting the metal fibers just a tad and cleaning the blade from any residue that might be on the blade. Now that you have a clean blade and lifted metal fibers, your grove is set up for the blade and wire glue connection. Think of it like primer to paint.

    Gary Spruill

    Quote Originally Posted by JTX View Post
    Actually, I somewhat misspoke in my original post. This is a brand new blade and I'm wiring it for the first time. The black coating is the protective layer put on to prevent rust and corrosion.

    Should I still grind through this till I see the shiny metal?

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