Inseparable Epee Blade and Grip

[Robert Smith]

I started in to debugging an epee this afternoon and found I needed to take the fencer end apart. Got the hex nut off okay, disconnected the wires okay, can't move the pistol grip at all. The guard will move, but the grip and blade seem to be welded together. It's a Vniti blade, and I think it was a little heavy in the shoulders to start with. I think it's one I took a file to just to get the grip to fit, and I'm guessing that I didn't file quite enough and that the grip has been cranked tight onto that over-tight fit.

So, how to extract? I've stuck it in a vise and pulled; I've soaked it in penetrating oil; I've braced the guard on a handy garbage can and, with the aid of an old length of tang and a heavy hammer, I've waled on the end of the tang inside the grip. No movement at all. I'm currently thinking either chains and teams of horses, or sawing (somehow) through the grip and probably the guard too, or trying to find freezer space to see if that will help or alternatively oven space or gas torch. Or mastering the art of rewiring without dismantling first.

Any suggestions?

[erooMynohtnA]

When this happens, it's typically a lockwasher jammed into the threading of the blade. Other than putting the blade in a vise and trying to concurrently torque and pull the handle, I can't think of anything. You may have to destroy the grip.

[CvilleFencer]

Take a flashlight and see if you can actually see a washer jammed against the threads. If you can see it you might be able to use a small punch/chisel/screwdriver to pop it loose and then it should be easy enough to get the grip off. If there is no washer, you may have tougher problems.

If it is a case of the shoulder being very tight against the grips tang well, try twisting it side to side while pulling on it. Lock the blade end down tightly in a vice so you can get as much power on it as possible. It might take some doing but most grips are much softer than the tang and will wear away enough to get it off without having to cut off the grip.

[fencerbill]

Don't beat on the end of the tang inside the guard. Loosen the pommel and beat on that. If it is inside hex, use a right angle Allen wrench to drive it. If it is outside hex, back the pommel until the end of the tang is inside of the pommel. You want something that is about the size of the pommel. I have some old rock drills I would use. A cheap masonry drill 8 mm (3/8 inch) or larger, for example

[parrythis]

or alternatively oven space or gas torch.

When working on automotive parts that are fitting together too snugly to be pulled apart, a propane torch often does the trick. Bear in mind, however, that the fencer end of an epee has some parts that don't take kindly to heat.

[Robert Smith]

Thanks all. Turns out in the end it was crazy glue; someone had applied extra to the wire just after the guard and let it run. I eventually got the grip off by clamping the blade and hammering on the reinforcing ring on the guard, all the while hoping that the tang wouldn't snap. When it finally came off, there were shards of crazy glue all over and still-adhering chunks all the way up to the start of the thread. How come when I want something to stick together that well it comes apart at the slightest touch, and when I don't want something to stick together - fingers, for instance - it invariably does just that? Crazy, that glue.

[Mergs]

If you use the above recommendation, I would suggest that you remove the thumbpad and spaghetti insulation first, as well as most of the parts of the connector, because the temperature that you would have to raise the grip to to make this work (and especially if you are using the propane/blow torch as your heat source), you are most likely to ruin the plastic bits and/or catch things on fire.

also, you might want to open the vise wide enough for the blade to fit, and rest the guard on the vise jaws before you start pounding on the pomel nut/tang. You can get a pretty good whack at it this way!

[Purple Fencer]

If you use the above recommendation, I would suggest that you remove the thumbpad and spaghetti insulation first, as well as most of the parts of the connector, because the temperature that you would have to raise the grip to to make this work (and especially if you are using the propane/blow torch as your heat source), you are most likely to ruin the plastic bits and/or catch things on fire.

also, you might want to open the vise wide enough for the blade to fit, and rest the guard on the vise jaws before you start pounding on the pomel nut/tang. You can get a pretty good whack at it this way!

When in doubt....use a bigger hammer?

[Mergs]

When in doubt....use a bigger hammer?

No, just use something that can take a decent schwack! Bigger hammer helps, though!

[brtech]

Also note that if the OP had in fact tried heat, it would have worked. If he got the tang above the CA bond break temp (which you can get from a heat gun, let alone a torch), the handle would have come free.

[telkanuru]

If he's soaked it in penetrating oil, heat may have some interesting results.

[Purple Fencer]

No, just use something that can take a decent schwack! Bigger hammer helps, though!

Kinda like my answer now when people ask about armory....Rule #1 of armory...it's the fencer's fault.....rule #2...see rule #1 (I mean really, gang....you do NOT need a certified armorer to retape your foil blades....)

[fencerbill]

A hot air gun can give you much better controlled heat than a propane torch. Just may take a little longer.

I really recommend the type with a half inch orifice, much more controllable than a hair dryer. I get mine at craft stores such as Joann, Michaels, A C Moore, etc. I find them in the stamp section where they are used for making embossed crafts. Also much easier to pack than most hair dryers.

I have been very successful in assisting the removal of barrels that were superglued with mine.

They have many other uses in armoring type activities. Have a F/E mask with the rubber band coming loose? The hot air gun can be used to reattach the existing adhesive. You won't wind up with big gaps like you get when you just add more hot melt glue.

Suggestion, get on Joann's web site and download the 50% off coupon. Knocks the price from $20 down to $10.

Many other uses