I Hate Rust

[Pepster]

Howdy all,

If the large gap since my last post is not indication enough, I've been away from the sport for a while. However, I'm heading back to school for an alumni get together and exposition meet with the current team. So I pulled out the ol' fencing bag and got to work getting everything up and running.

First off - My main epee, after two years of trunk to basement, to trunk, to moving truck, to garage, to basement - Still works beautifully. All it needed was a little sanding to get some corrosion off the bell. For that I thank all of you for your advice and assistance in honing my craft. You all rock.

Secondly, - About two years ago I put a blade in my acetone tube to strip the wires.... then I got distracted and before you know it it was two months ago and we were moving. I poured out the acetone (90% of it was still left, with some glue sludge at the bottom) cleaned the tube and blade (shiny!) an for safekeeping during the move I decided to use the now empty black iron pipe for blade storage.

I wiped the blade, and a spare practice epee blade, down with WD-40 to prevent rust, and into the tube they went. Last night I pulled out the blade to rewire it and there is rust all over it!

Much sanding, steel wool, and consternation later, I have a working backup epee. However, it's learnin' time:

- What should I use to rustproof blades for storage? Did I just not use enough WD-40, or is WD-40 the wrong stuff?

- What should I do to the blades before they go back into the basement for what will concievably be another long stretch? I plan to wrap the bell in a bit of newspaper, as the corrosion on blade A came from prolonged contact with the elastic straps on the PVC tube I keep it in. Better suggestions are always welcome.

Thanks,
- Pepster
- Who has increased his target area more than he'd like to admit

[fencerbill]

I like candle wax. Clean the rust off, rub candle wax all over and buff. The WD40 soon evaporates and then doesn't provide any further protection. The candle wax will last much longer. BtW, I like abrasive sponges for removing the rust. They easily conform to the blade shape.

[Nolano]

I have a neat foam sanding block I usually use unless it's a form of colored blade, in which case I'll try a really abrasive sponge or something.

[SJCFU#2]

I've also heard people recommendation automotive paste wax.

[TodG]

Flitz works very well.

[Mergs]

I've also heard people recommendation automotive paste wax.

Yup. Just use a good silicone based wax.

[EdGardner]

I used a candle and rubbed the blade with it after clearing the rust. Worked great. I need to keep a candle in my locker at the club, since I have taken to storing weapons there.

[Inquartata]

Wax is best for long-term storage especially. Even coatings of oils will eventually collect dust, and the motes will act as wicks to draw moisture from the air down to the steel. Which is how a lot of armour displayed in churches and suchlike infrequently dusted places tended to get their unique mottled patinas.

Wax doesn't evaporate, and it's too solid to be pierced by dust motes. Short of cosmoline it's probably your best choice. People use auto waxes, floor waxes, furniture waxes, clear shoe polish, all with about equal success. I'd avoid the WD-40 especially for wired foil or epee blades, since the stuff contains solvents which may attack glues and maybe even wire insulations. ( Or maybe not, but since there are so many alternatives why take chances? )