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  1. #1
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    *sigh* another crazy idea...

    so, after a looong pause, i decided to post again. I recently purchased a russian made S2000 blade, of sTm make, from amfence.com, and to my dismay (not really, i was expecting this) it was not black. My beloved Pozdnyakov Pro snapped (inconveniently timed, as it was a week before a tourney), and i miss the shiny blackness. Anywho. I mentioned that the new blade was not black to my dad, who had the idea to *drumroll initiates* anodize the blade *drumroll crecendoes and halts*. Yes, anodize the blade black. i asked him if it would still conduct electricity, and he said yes, but i wanted another oppinion on it. I know it wont make a lick of difference to my preformance, but i just like the shiney black that my Podz Pro had. just let me know what you think, thanks.

  2. #2
    Posting Hound Array Purple Fencer's Avatar
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    Can you even anodize steel???

    Paging the metallurgists...
    Need fencing equipment? See me at H.O.M. Fencing Supply

    Going to your first tournament? Read "Choose yer weapon, Laddie (or: Dude, where's my foil?)"

  3. #3
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    I have no idea, just relaying what he said...

    Edit: I just did some researching, and no, steel does not anodize. heres another procedure to get it black, but idk if it will still let it conduct electricity at under 1 ohm of resistance... or at all:http://www.finishing.com/313/99.shtml
    Last edited by Bloodwrath970; 11-04-2008 at 10:01 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Array erooMynohtnA's Avatar
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    You cannot anodize steel, but there are many ways to electrochemically coat it, many easier than anodizing.

    Bluing and parkerizing come to mind. One is shiny, the other matte. Ted Mooney is right on.

    Go to a local sporting goods store, and in the firearms section get a product called "Super Blu." It's about $6. (Yes it will conduct well, and no one is going to test your weapon to make sure it registers 1 ohm.)
    >:U

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    Yes, but if i had wanted a blue blade, i would have gotten it blue. Any tips for black? Thanks anyways though eroo.

  6. #6
    Curmudgeon Emeritus Array Inquartata's Avatar
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    Some bluing solutions yield blue or purple, some yield black.

    Try Outer's cold-bluing solution if you want the latter.
    Use the Shift key, people! Keyboard manufacturers everywhere are ineffably saddened when you ignore what they made just for you!

  7. #7
    Senior Member Array erooMynohtnA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bloodwrath970 View Post
    Yes, but if i had wanted a blue blade, i would have gotten it blue. Any tips for black? Thanks anyways though eroo.
    From the article you linked:

    "It is very unlikely that the parts were black anodized because steel cannot be anodized. The treatment was propably black oxide. Oil will help, but may not give you a really shiny look if the treatment was a cold blackening as opposed to a genuine hot black oxide treatment.

    Hot black oxide plus oil on a bead blasted surface will give you a dark, rich, black finish which looks from a little distance like black enamel. Polishing the steel to a bright finish before black oxiding will give you a deep onyx finish. Polishing after black oxide will probably remove the black oxide finish."

    Bluing = black oxide. It's just a name. My tips for black would be exactly what I said before. "Super Blue."
    >:U

  8. #8
    Senior Member Array erooMynohtnA's Avatar
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    >:U

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    Aesthetically I imagine this looking quite pretty. Would it help at all with reducing corrosion? I live in the tropics and rust is a pain.

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    Quote Originally Posted by InfernoXV View Post
    Aesthetically I imagine this looking quite pretty. Would it help at all with reducing corrosion? I live in the tropics and rust is a pain.
    Doubt it, but it is a possibility. For you, a sheath and some WD40 sound invaluable, theyre what i use. And ill look into the bluing stuff. now as a bonus question for brownie points: any way to make it red?

  11. #11
    Posting Hound Array Zilverzmurfen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bloodwrath970 View Post
    now as a bonus question for brownie points: any way to make it red?
    Stab your opponents. Stab them real hard.


    Fencing is my only PvP.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Array erooMynohtnA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfernoXV View Post
    Aesthetically I imagine this looking quite pretty. Would it help at all with reducing corrosion? I live in the tropics and rust is a pain.
    It can help, but typically very little. Parkerization would be your best bet if you want corrosion resistance. Put neutral shoe polish on it, for very good invisible protection.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bloodwrath970 View Post
    Doubt it, but it is a possibility. For you, a sheath and some WD40 sound invaluable, theyre what i use. And ill look into the bluing stuff. now as a bonus question for brownie points: any way to make it red?
    Color it with a sharpie.

    Don't put WD-40 on the blade, that will stain uniforms.
    >:U

  13. #13
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    no it doesn't. I have been using WD40 since I owned a blade, and it does NOT stain uniforms. It will dry or you're putting too much on if it does stain.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Array erooMynohtnA's Avatar
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    You're not putting on enough.
    >:U

  15. #15
    Senior Member Array TodG's Avatar
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    Bluing and black oxide are not the same process. Traditional bluing uses salts with selenium, although there is also rust and heat bluing. Black oxide uses a similar but slightly different process.

    The finish (blue or black oxide) depends on the surface treatment of the metal. If you bead blast and blue it will be matte. If you polish and black oxide, it will be shiny.

    The best cold blue option out there is Brownell's 44/40. Hot blues look better but require a heated tank. Cold blues like 44/40 work quite well if the surface to be blued is scrupulously clean and slightly warm to the touch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by erooMynohtnA View Post
    You're not putting on enough.
    Kept my black russian nice and shiny, and rust free, save for what was on it when i bought it (second hand, remember). And i use a cloth to get the rust off also; sandpaper takes off the color, cloth/carpet doesnt. And you finish with a slight layer of WD40 to protect. If done right, no adverse effects on the opponents uniform.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Array Nolano's Avatar
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    He means on your own uniform when stuffed together in a bag.
    "When Fascism comes to America, it will come wrapped in the flag and bearing a cross."

  18. #18
    Senior Member Array erooMynohtnA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TodG View Post
    Bluing and black oxide are not the same process. Traditional bluing uses salts with selenium, although there is also rust and heat bluing. Black oxide uses a similar but slightly different process.

    The finish (blue or black oxide) depends on the surface treatment of the metal. If you bead blast and blue it will be matte. If you polish and black oxide, it will be shiny.

    The best cold blue option out there is Brownell's 44/40. Hot blues look better but require a heated tank. Cold blues like 44/40 work quite well if the surface to be blued is scrupulously clean and slightly warm to the touch.
    Black oxide is the end result and bluing is the process. Cold bluing does not leave magnetite on the surface, but it's still called black oxide. It's like how metal tarnish is called oxidation even though it's often sulfide.
    >:U

  19. #19
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    Are vniti foil blades coated against rust, or is that just a natural blackish finish?
    (\ /)
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  20. #20
    Senior Member Array erooMynohtnA's Avatar
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    I have heard they are parkerized. The finish is not natural.
    >:U

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