Bayonet and Italian Bayonet adapters for test box

[Chris McCarthy]

While at NAC I noticed that the armorers had adapters for Bayonet and Italian-style Bayonet cords that converted them into standard 2 prong.
This allowed them to plug them into their test boxes without having the Bayonet receptacles built into the test box. Thinking this was a good idea, I was wondering if anyone had advice on what to do and not do in making these adapters for my test box.

Chris.

[brtech]

That sounds like Cliff Iverson. He only has a 2 pin and has a couple of adapters.

The only advice you need is mechanically stable and low ohms. I think the easy way to do that is to take an LP/Negrini weapon socket, with the bracket, mount a 2 pin plug to the bracket and use a short length of body cord wire for the connections. The bracket is one connection of course, and so you need to connect to the bracket. Tin the wire and put it under a screw. You might just use the screw holes for the 2 pin and drill holes to match in the bracket. You will have to substitute longer screws for the ones that come with the 2 pin. Might need to cut off the bracket some, and bend it (the two pin housing isn't flat).

I think I would put the head of the screws through the bracket and into the top of the 2 pin housing. Then put the bottom on, with the nuts on it and tighten.
Dunno if you could get a nut in between the housing halves to hold the wire that connects to the bracket from the inside of the housing, but that would make the neatest assembly.

[SJCFU#2]

First off, I highly recommend trying to fit a Leon Paul bayonet socket into your test box. They are common enough that you probably won't want to spending time swapping an adapter in and out. Italian bayonets are less common so maybe you can get away with an adapter (I built one a few years ago to tide me over until I got around to building a new box).

When I built the adapter I started by collected a length of 18-gage two-conductor wire (probably salvaged from an old body cord), a French two-prong plug (something I had lying about - had I been buying new parts I might have chosen a Leon Paul two-prong plug simply because I like the solid pins), and a Negrini socket (which was probably the only thing that I actually bought new). Fit the two prong plug at one end of the wire, just like you would if it were a body cord. Connect the other end to the socket. The B line went from the small pin on the plug to the screw near the base of the socket. The C line went from the large pin on the plug to the metal bracket. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to solder the wire directly to the socket, given its size.

Depending on how close you will be soldering to the socket cylinder it might not be a bad idea to take the socket apart before soldering. If you do then I suggest first fitting a suitable plug into the socket so that everything is reasonably secure, then slowly backing off the small screws that are set into the side of the cylinder (you don't have to remove them entirely). Once the screws are loose enough you should be able to remove the plug, plastic retaining ring, metal disk and spring from inside the socket in a controlled manner. Remove the screw on the side where the wire hooks up and then you can remove the metal base and plastic disk from the bottom of the socket. Once you are done soldering you can reassemble everything by simply reversing the process (be sure to press the plug down as far as possible into the socket in order to position the retaining ring as far enough down as possible while you tighten the set screws).

[fencerbill]

The previous advice is sound, although you might consider an alternative. I am still using a box that I have had for several years that has undergone several improvements.

I have built a "trimorphodite" body cord that is useful for testing weapons. It has a 3-pin plug at one end and 3-pin for Epee and 2-pin and Bayonet for Foil at the other end. Each is on about a 6 inch cord which is then joined to the wire from the 3 pin.

After a while, instead of unplugging this back and forth I put in a separate set of jacks so I could leave in plugged in. Even later I added 2 jacks so I could leave the wires for Lame tester and alligator clip plugged in. So now I can alternate between testing body cords, Lames and weapons without unplugging anything.

I still haven't built an adapter for Italian-style bayonet cords. But when I do I plan to base it on a 3-pin plug to use in the set of jacks for my trimorphrodite body cord.

During the first day rush, I can leave the Italian adapter in and and do 3 kinds of body cords and Lames without switching around. Then as things slow down, I can put the body cord back in and do body cords, Lames and weapons without switching around, just have to put in the Italian adapter when needed.