failing shims

[neal white]

what causes (and how does one fix) insufficient clearance in the tip that results in failure of the thick shim test? -- Sorry I put this into general discussion but it belongs here

[Mergs]

OK, thick shim? that means that there isn't enough clearance between the bottom of the tip and the top of the barrel to insure that it travels at least 1mm before the contact spring engages the contacts on the ends of the wires.

Normally when using parts from the same manufacturer this isn't a problem. But when you mix them up, there can be some difficulty. The easiest way is to make sure the parts are compatible, that is, from the same manufacturer (or ones that make parts that are interchangeable). The other is to file the end of the barrel. I'd only do this if there is only a minute amount of material that needs to be removed, <.2mm.

And then again, it could be the shims. Remember, not everything that comes from the vendor meets spec! Even measuring/test gear.

[Fechter1]

what causes (and how does one fix) insufficient clearance in the tip that results in failure of the thick shim test? -- Sorry I put this into general discussion but it belongs here

Usually don't see that one very much... The times I've come across this is when you mix and match small parts from different suppliers/makers. If your small parts are all matched sets, this should never happen.
As for how to fix it: easiest way, find a combo that satisfies the 1.5mm clearance criterium. Get in the habit of using parts from only one manufacturer. I use FWF (old Uhlmann) myself.
Other than that, I suppose you could try to grind down either the top of the open barrel, or maybe extend the screwslots towards the top...

[parrythis]

The other is to file the end of the barrel. I'd only do this if there is only a minute amount of material that needs to be removed, <.2mm.

All good advice so far.

Be aware that taking material off the end of the barrel does change the distance that the tip finishes from the contact points when depressed, so you might have to adjust your contact spring too if you do this.

The other thing you can do is to take a round needle file and carefully lengthen the screw slots towards the end of the barrel. This will allow the tip to sit higher in the barrel and allow the shim to fit.

[yeoldearmourer]

If you take out tip then use a cup setting tool and tap on it you can reset the cup and it can make it work. If you do not have a point set tool and a 1.5mm screw drive set in between the 2 contacts in the barrel and push can act as a point setting tool. What happen is you ever done the rewire didn't take the time to make sure the wiring cup was set right in the barrel. I had have a few case where the tip theards was longer then normal and when the barrel was put on and there wire the cup was setting to high so it would not past the 1.5mm shims test. But I bet that someone didn't sit the cup right. Another thing you don't what to do is filed the end of the barrel because if you don't get it even you have a good chance of failing the .05 min travel.My wife and daughter will do a 3 sides check on the tip. I used noting but PBT epee wires because they are better then any thing else and I don't have a problem with them working in German or French epee barrels and tips. Have you tried to replace your pressure spring that holds up tip. Also what type of tip are you using because some are fatted then the German and French tip therefore you have to check max travel from the side because the shim will not fit around the barrel. Some Russian and Italain epee tips are to thick for the 1.5 mm shim to fit around. We use to used a Italian type tip and the referees had to be shown how to check them.