I need another epee bodycord.

[Nolano]

Hey everyone

I've got a Favero epee bodycord, and while I love it, I need at least a second one for tournaments and such.

A part of me would just as soon get another one, as I've yet to have any issues, but another part would like to try something else.
Basically, I'm deciding between FWF, Leon Paul, and Favero...
Any thoughts or experiences?

[Purple Fencer]

If you already have a Favero, stay with it....that way you can cannibalize if you need to.

[JEC]

I own over 20 body cords (or parts of them) with about half in good condition (3 epee fencers at one point, 2 now). While Purple is correct in telling you stay with a vendor, out of the 6 Faveros that I have had, only one works now.

My rankings and comments:

1. Mr. Chen BG 2005 Easy to Fic Epee body cord - lifetime warranty, sturdy cable, easy repairs, etc. (All 5 working)

2. Uhlmann/FWF Epee body cord - sturdy, durable, pain to repair (3 working - 1 not)

3. Favero - flexible thinner wire, not durable (2 yrs or so), medium difficulty repairing (1 working - 5 are being cannibalized for floor cords)

4. Prieur - break often, easy repair, the copper screws on the plastic block break easily. (2 working - 3 not)

5. Blade - had a bad experience with 2 body cords over 10 yrs ago;

Examine this link:

http://www.blue-gauntlet.com/store/c...s/Z-BC/G_BC_EE

[XanderHal]

My first epee body cord was an SG Elite Body Cord (Blue Gauntlet). I didn't believe the advice here at first that buying expensive body cords was a better idea . I just had to replace the connectors on it and I went with Leon Paul connectors. The pins on the SG were cheap and the springy cage that all German type connectors used collapsed and would no longer make contact with the socket. I pulled them out several times to fix them and eventually they just cracked and the connectors became useless.

I went with the LP connectors because the pins don't use the cage design; they are solid. Plus, they are easy to fix and build yourself, and the heads have a lower profile when plugged in the socket compared to any other cord that I know of. My other cord is an FWF cord, and while the cages on the pins are much more robust than the SG cord I think eventually it will have the same problem as the SG and have to be replaced.

So, don't go cheap and props to LP in this case!

Cheers,

Xander

[fencerbill]

My advice is based on experience in repairing, literally, thousands of body cords for clubs and about 10 southern New England area colleges. Relative to JEC's posting:

1. Mr. Chen: JEC's experience is quite different from mine. If you see Mr. Chen often and he will do the repairs, wonderful. Otherwise, you will be mailing a lot of body cords back and forth.

2. Uhlmann/FWF: Pins with cage design are fine if made right, stay away from cheap knockoffs.

3. Favero: Little experience, but you basically have to decide whether you like flexible body cords that you need to repair more often or stiff body cords that may last longer.

4. Prieur: Buy extra set screws, 3.5 mm by 5 mm flat point set screws. If you get them in steel instead of brass the heads won't break as often.

General comment about other makes. You get what you pay for, if you're lucky.

As an armorer, I get many opportunities to pick over lost and found. I keep all the Leon Paul new Epee body cords. But I then put Prieur 3 pin plugs on them for the reel end and Leon Paul bayonet plugs on the other end for Sabre and Foil. I like the flexibility of the LP wire. But I detest the short lengths they put on their Foil/Sabre body cords for the alligator clip. If you repair them the way they build them, they are too short to be legal after the second time they break, and they will. For Epee, I keep all the German/FWF that I find in lost and found.

And you will need 3 body cords. If one breaks in a competition, you are still required to have 2 working for your next bout. And you don't need the aggravation of having to fix them between bouts. Although the third could be any cheapie.

Remember, there are 2 kinds of body cords; those that are broken and those that are not broken yet.

I own over 20 body cords (or parts of them) with about half in good condition (3 epee fencers at one point, 2 now). While Purple is correct in telling you stay with a vendor, out of the 6 Faveros that I have had, only one works now.

My rankings and comments:

1. Mr. Chen BG 2005 Easy to Fic Epee body cord - lifetime warranty, sturdy cable, easy repairs, etc. (All 5 working)

2. Uhlmann/FWF Epee body cord - sturdy, durable, pain to repair (3 working - 1 not)

3. Favero - flexible thinner wire, not durable (2 yrs or so), medium difficulty repairing (1 working - 5 are being cannibalized for floor cords)

4. Prieur - break often, easy repair, the copper screws on the plastic block break easily. (2 working - 3 not)

5. Blade - had a bad experience with 2 body cords over 10 yrs ago;

Examine this link:

http://www.blue-gauntlet.com/store/c...s/Z-BC/G_BC_EE

[HDG]

Remember, there are 2 kinds of body cords; those that are broken and those that are not broken yet.

Wise words.

[piste off]

I am tempted to try Rick Shellhouse's body cords next time (currently using Uhlmann). Stainless steel pins, special wires used for medical devices (as I recall) and extra long. Expensive, but given how crappy the rest are...

Rick

[Nolano]

I am tempted to try Rick Shellhouse's body cords next time (currently using Uhlmann). Stainless steel pins, special wires used for medical devices (as I recall) and extra long. Expensive, but given how crappy the rest are...

Rick

I was tempted to try the ultimate body cord... buit at $45 after shipping... Plus, I really like clear wires for easy break repairs...

[brtech]

I'm an orange Prieur fan for epee cords. I used to break the set screws, but I haven't broken one in a couple of years. You just have to get used to the force you can apply without breaking. You also have to keep the wires the "right" length so that one of them isn't holding the whole thing together. I find them to be very reliable.

[SJCFU#2]

I second most of what Fencerbill already said, with a few additional comments.

From what I've seen Favero cords tend to start off a bit on the short side - this means fewer opportunities to repair them before they become too short.

I've used Prieur cords for many years without many problem however it appears that they changed their supplier for the pins a few years ago (about the time they shifted from orange to red cords). The new pins are not as durable (in some cases I've seen the "cage" around the pin crumple rather than fit into the socket) so I would be leery of a new Prieur cord these days.

Personally I like the solid pins of the LP cords (good contact with the sockets) however the plastic frame which holds the pins in alignment seems to be a weak point and once it breaks the entire thing must be replaced. Also, LP cords tend to require regular (all be it very simple) maintenance in order to keep their resistance within spec.

[parrythis]

Basically, I'm deciding between FWF, Leon Paul, and Favero...
Any thoughts or experiences?

I have a Leon Paul body cord and I like it. It uses solid pins instead of the ones with the springy-spinner-thingy on them. I never have a problem with the electrical connection.

The one thing about them that surprises me is that the body/case is not as thick as other body cords. When I plug in and close the retaining clip, the ball does not sit securely (or at all) on the body of the plug. This has never been a problem, but I always feel like the retaining clip is not really going to prevent the cord from getting unplugged.

[TBean]

The one thing about them that surprises me is that the body/case is not as thick as other body cords. When I plug in and close the retaining clip, the ball does not sit securely (or at all) on the body of the plug. This has never been a problem, but I always feel like the retaining clip is not really going to prevent the cord from getting unplugged.

Yes, because they want you to use thier sockets as well. The fit will be perfect at that point. Once you switch to thier sockets you cannot get the retaining clip to fit over the plug of any other maker's cord (Prieur maybe) - it is a beautiful system.

[AlphaFire X5]

I think my favorite body cord combo would be Negrini wire with Uhlmann/FWF ends. I think Negrini wire can be had for ~$9 USD per meter, if I remember correctly. Our club uses this combo, and as an armourer, I have yet to have to repair one. Ever.

We have a few Negrini cord/Favero end body cords as well, and the two prong end is notorious for coming loose from the weapon due to the "flex-plastic" clip they use. It's never been a problem with the Uhlmann ends.

[freerider258]

i ordered a LP bodycord, and i have a prieur epee, will it fit in the socket right w/ the ball clamp thingy?

[Nolano]

Yes, because they want you to use thier sockets as well. The fit will be perfect at that point. Once you switch to thier sockets you cannot get the retaining clip to fit over the plug of any other maker's cord (Prieur maybe) - it is a beautiful system.

Noticed that myself, having an LP weapon.

A little dremel work on the socket and I have an ultra light LP socket that fits either LP cords or the thick german style cords.

[Purple Fencer]

i ordered a LP bodycord, and i have a prieur epee, will it fit in the socket right w/ the ball clamp thingy?

The weapon itself does not matter...in this case, it's the socket that counts. sounds like you have the Uhlmann type socket. it should work fine...note that the rules only say that there must be a security device present and used in teh weapon.....nothing says the security device has to actually work (*cough cough* Prieur foil clips.....)

[HDG]

i ordered a LP bodycord, and i have a prieur epee, will it fit in the socket right w/ the ball clamp thingy?

An LP plug is not going to work it's way out of a socket, retaining device or not.

[HDG]

Personally I like the solid pins of the LP cords (good contact with the sockets) however the plastic frame which holds the pins in alignment seems to be a weak point and once it breaks the entire thing must be replaced. Also, LP cords tend to require regular (all be it very simple) maintenance in order to keep their resistance within spec.

Not a tough replacement:
C37_bodywire_unique_offset_3_pin.jpg

Body cord 3-pin plug with unique offset pins Ref: C37
The 3 pins are slightly offset to provide better contact and increaced tension.

Price: $6.93

[SJCFU#2]

i ordered a LP bodycord, and i have a prieur epee, will it fit in the socket right w/ the ball clamp thingy?

If you have a genuine Prieur socket then it should have a plastic retaining clip on the socket that is supposed to fit over the plug. These rarely work well with plugs from other manufacturers (or even with their own for that matter - years ago I added retaining bails purchased from either LP or Uhlmann to all of my Prieur sockets just to eliminate the need for those stupid plastic clips, and I use Prieur body cords).

Fortunately (as PF has already noted) it sounds like you have a German-style socket so there should no problems.

[bruisedfleche]

I've always been curious about "body cord"topics. When I told my coach I wanted my own body cords, he peeled off a couple of lenghts of wire, tossed me a bag of parts and showed me how to make one. I can honestly say, I have never bought a body cord, only the parts, which ends up pretty cheap. I have probably a dozen between foil and epee, and they all work. At our club, all the students made their own bodycords and built their own weapons. I guess I'm wondering if/why this isn't done at more clubs?