| OK, you have a body cord problem. But it is critically important exactly what is the problem.
To keep the white light off, you have to have continuity through the C line (the lonely pin in the plug to the reel cable) and back along the B line (in the middle of the plug). The system was intended to have that continuity in the weapon itself. Although before people made the connection in the weapon, they would sometimes use wire in the body cord or, even worse, in the reel connection or even at the machine.
If the break is in the B line, you will have a white light but you can still get a colored light on when you contact the opponent's Lame.
But if the break is in the C line, you will not get a light from contact with the opponent.
The C line is active, you might say the B line is insurance that you could get a light.
You sometimes see fencers go ahead and fence, even with a white light on the machine. But if the white light is intermittent, they should be sure that they can record a touch. So you should test while the white light is on.
Just last weekend, I reffed a gold medal bout in a small local competition. Double actions. only one light. We all know such things happen with whipover blockage and fast time out. But when it got to about 6-1, I tested by pulling on the BC at the weapon and sure enough, the BC had failed. But only at full extension. Back in on guard position, no white light. It had come on for such a short duration that no one, myself or about 20 spectators, had noticed. The fencer, who most of the time did win between this pair of fencers, could not recover and lost. Not very important in this competition, but would have been disastrous at the JO's, for example.
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It is now after July 4th. My avatar with the Xmas hat is no longer late.
It is now officially early.
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A little overview of electric saber function would be appreciated. Thanks!
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