Heat Shrink Tubing

[aamct2]

I was wondering if anyone has tried using some flavour of heat-shrink tubing instead of the standard spaghetti tubing? Is this legal for use in competition (USFA)? What're your thoughts on this?

Thanks,

aamct2

[CvilleFencer]

You could use it. I just don't understand why you would... As long as the wires are completely (from guard to socket) insulated (each wire in its own insulation for epee) you can use pretty much whatever you want.

So, why heat shrink tubing over the norm?

[JMcC]

I was wondering if anyone has tried using some flavour of heat-shrink tubing instead of the standard spaghetti tubing? Is this legal for use in competition (USFA)? What're your thoughts on this?

Thanks,

aamct2

"Spaghetti" tubing needs to remain flexible to weave its path.
Heat shrink tubing starts out quite rigid, and gets even more so when heated and shrunk. It would be a poor substitute for the normal item.
/

[aamct2]

I thought it might be easier to thread the wire through initially, and later to keep the insulation down all the way so that it doesn't come up through the bell-guard when assembling the weapon.

~aamct2

[brtech]

It's a nice thought, but the stiffness makes a bigger problem than the ease of threading.

If you are having trouble threading your spaghetti onto the wire:
1. Cut off the end clean
2. Wax the wire. Use a candle. Hold the wire against the candle with your thumb and pull. Do that a couple of times making sure the wire is coated with wax all around
3. If you are re-using spaghetti, first make sure it's long enough. Spaghetti is cheap, cutting the wire too short that you can repair a wire break is expensive. If it's long enough, but "kinked" use a hot air gun to straighten it out. This trick is also effective on the Uhlmann reel insulation tubes for the connector (you know, the ones that get knotted up!)
4. Twist the spaghetti as you push it on. Twirl it in the same direction as you feed it in.

Make sure that the spaghetti comes up into the groove of the blade. You don't glue the wire all the way down the groove. Leave a 1/2" or so unglued and push the spaghetti up into that area. You want to protect the wire exiting the guard, which often gets a pretty sharp edge right where it contacts the shoulder of the blade. To do that, you want the spaghetti to cover the wire past the guard a little. If you can see the spaghetti past the guard, that's enough.

Also make sure it's actually down as far as it should be just before you attach it to the socket. It may have been pushed up as you assembled the blade. This is one reason you should put the wire on last, after you have the handle on. The spaghetti should come right up to the socket. You don't want any way for the spaghetti to slide up after you assemble.

[CvilleFencer]

Odd, the stiffness did not even occur to me as another reason it might not be a good idea. I have some heat shrink tubing at home that is effectively the same stuff Uhlmann uses at the base of their sockets, sort of a thin rubber innertube like stuff. I figured he would be using something similar...

[piste off]

2. Wax the wire. Use a candle. Hold the wire against the candle with your thumb and pull. Do that a couple of times making sure the wire is coated with wax all around

That is a great idea. I have not tried it.

I am into flyfishing and tie my own flies. We use a soft wax on the threads (available in any FF store) that might be even be better/easier. I never even thought of using it on the wires to help with the spaghetti!

Thanks for the tip.

Rick

[aamct2]

Thanks for the tips. I'll try waxing the wire first next time and hold-off on the heat-shrink tubing.

[Joe biebel]

There are dozens (maybe hundreds) of products available in heat shrink tubing. I have been using it for years and it has numerous advantages mechanically. The previous posters that talk about "stiffness" have experience with certain types of HST. Currently, I uses 3/64", clear, insulgrip HS 105 deg.C., PVC, HST from McMaster-Carr. It is an excellent diameter, allowing me to easily thread the wire, then get the tubing inside the groove of the blade, at the base, after shrinking.

The advantage to this tubing is that, when shrunk, it becomes "part of the wire." It is a lot harder to mess up the wire (loose handle, adjustments, etc.) where it comes through the guard and socket with such an arrangement.

[keeper of the swords]

I apply a bit of thin CA to the last 1/4" of the wire and "kick it" with activator; then cut off the last 1/8" or so. This stiffens the wire and keeps the cloth insulator from fraying as it it fed thru the tubing. After threading, cut off the remaining CA stiffened wire and proceed.

[Joe biebel]

I apply a bit of thin CA to the last 1/4" of the wire and "kick it" with activator; then cut off the last 1/8" or so. This stiffens the wire and keeps the cloth insulator from fraying as it it fed thru the tubing. After threading, cut off the remaining CA stiffened wire and proceed.

I've tried this and works great. Forgot about that. Good Post "Keeper".

[flyingfencer]

I've tried this and works great. Forgot about that. Good Post "Keeper".

I also use the heat shrink like Joe and Keeper. Like they said there are different types. I use the same type as Joe, and it works great. The wrap stays with the wire. I've not had any problems with the wrap being too stiff.

[monitorlizerd]

Heat shrink is all I've ever used willingly. The few times I've used spaghetti, I've had a horrible time with it...won't thread, keeps trying to come off the wire, won't fit in the groove, etc. Never had a problem with shrink tubing, and never found it to be stiff.
Different strokes, I guess.

Susie in Houston