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Thread: Sabre Armoring #2

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    Sabre Armoring #2

    What is the difference between the bayonet socket and the 2-pin socket for the sabre? What are the different kinds of 2-pin sockets and does it make a difference? Would putting a foil socket on a saber cause a problem?

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    1) Look at a picture, it's pretty obvious.
    2) Basically, French and German. I would recommend against mixing them, and to use German, as the french retainer clip is terribly insufficient.
    3) Yes, you'll get a constant white light.

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    Senior Member Monash_Armourer's Avatar
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    Assuming you don't have the shorted out version of the bayonet that Leon Paul offer, you will still have to short out the socket with a piece of wire from the socket to the guard (or socket back onto the socket, same effect).

    There is honestly very little difference between most of the two-pins (different manufacturers use different pin sizes though), though LP's sockets are of a different design due to the design of their two-pin body cords. Other than this the most radical change you will really see in two-pin design will be that the socket is reversed and the body wire now locks in from the other side. Crazy I know!

    Using an insulated (for foil) two-pin socket will work in sabre, but unless you short it with a piece or wire or replace the insulation with flat washers you will get off target lights constantly.

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    Senior Member SJCFU#2's Avatar
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    Leon Paul bayonet foil sockets have a piece of plastic at the bottom that insulates the spring from the metal bracket. Saber sockets replace this piece of plastic with a small brass plate that electrically connects (shorts) the spring to the bracket.

    I can't recall ever seeing an Italian bayonet saber socket, however all that would be required to convert a foil socket to a saber socket would be to remove the plastic disk at the bottom that insulates the base plate the spring sits on from the metal base of the socket. It probably wouldn't even be necessary to replace the plastic with metal - it's thin enough that the slight increase in spring length (and corresponding decrease in compression) probably wouldn't be noticeable.

    Two-prong foil sockets have plastic rings that go around the jack for the small pin (B), holding it in position and insulating it from the metal bracket. Saber sockets replace the plastic rings with metal ones that hold the jack in position and short it to the bracket.

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    I can't recall ever seeing an Italian bayonet saber socket
    I've seen oiuyt's weapons, so I have, but I didn't pay any particular attention.

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    Posting Hound oiuyt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KD5MDK View Post
    I've seen oiuyt's weapons, so I have, but I didn't pay any particular attention.
    Mmmm, note that most have a sabre version of the socket, but at least one has a foil version with wire short.

    -B
    "Oh but you can't expect to wield supreme executive power just because some watery tart threw a sword at you!"

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    Senior Member fencerbill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJCFU#2 View Post
    Leon Paul bayonet foil sockets have a piece of plastic at the bottom that insulates the spring from the metal bracket. Saber sockets replace this piece of plastic with a small brass plate that electrically connects (shorts) the spring to the bracket.

    I can't recall ever seeing an Italian bayonet saber socket, however all that would be required to convert a foil socket to a saber socket would be to remove the plastic disk at the bottom that insulates the base plate the spring sits on from the metal base of the socket. It probably wouldn't even be necessary to replace the plastic with metal - it's thin enough that the slight increase in spring length (and corresponding decrease in compression) probably wouldn't be noticeable.
    I converted my own LP sockets and did feel it necessary to add a couple of washers. Without them the connection did not feel very secure.

    No experience with Italian bayonet sockets but it wouldn't hurt to use washers to avoid limp springs.
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