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  1. #1
    Senior Member Array counter riposte's Avatar
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    Leon Paul Bayonets

    I use bayonet sockets for my sabre body cord. Unfortunately, the ground keeps coming loose and registering me off-target, and causing the machine to tone when it is not supposed to (Such as when the weapon hits the deck, or another weapon in a brisk manner, i.e. beats [a characteristic I am not particulary fond of, especially if it is my beat]).

    Do any of you have recommendations on how to rewire the bayonet to prevent such grounding? (Such as certain wire gauges, wiring techniques, etc?)
    Don't take life so seriously... You'll never live through it.

  2. #2
    Armorer Array
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    </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Helvetica, Arial">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Helvetica, Arial">Originally posted by counter riposte:
    <strong>I use bayonet sockets for my sabre body cord. Unfortunately, the ground keeps coming loose and registering me off-target, and causing the machine to tone when it is not supposed to (Such as when the weapon hits the deck, or another weapon in a brisk manner, i.e. beats [a characteristic I am not particulary fond of, especially if it is my beat]).

    Do any of you have recommendations on how to rewire the bayonet to prevent such grounding? (Such as certain wire gauges, wiring techniques, etc?)</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Helvetica, Arial">The best way is to bend the metal bracket open and remove the bottom piece of the plastic that the spring rests on (i.e., the one with the screw-terminal for the wire), and then reassemble it. This way, the spring (which is part of the B-line circuit) will be resting directly on the metal bracket (which is part of the C-line). You'll usually need to put a few appropriately sized washers in below the spring (and/or stretch the spring) to keep the spacing right.

    Another, quicker way is to take a fairly long length of uninsulated wire (28-30 ga), attach one end to the B-line screw, and then wrap the wire around the bracket just under the plastic body many times, wedging it up securely between the plastic and the bracket (bending the bracket out just a little bit to help push the wire way up under the plastic body and then bending it back will help). I've done a lot of LP sockets this way, and haven't had problems with them.

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