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Old 10-10-2007, 09:40 PM   #1
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canting a new blade

Last week I broke a blade (rather badly) on fencing partner. It was a basic Prieur. I got a replacement this week (shelled out for a BF blue FIE) and it came pretty much unbent on one axis. So I pulled out a vise and went at it.

It was hard work and, well, pretty terrifying. I really had to lean into it to get any kind of bend at all. Actually broke a sweat doing it (am 5'6" and 129lbs so not much mass to work with.) It seemed like a lot of force to use on a blade. It's too late to ask since I've already bent it, but is this how it's supposed to be done? If so, it seems pretty inelegant, to me anyway.
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Old 10-10-2007, 10:09 PM   #2
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FIE blades tend to be tougher to cant in in the first place, so this does not sound out of the ordinary.

France Lames had some near the end that God Himself couldn;t put a cant into!
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Old 10-11-2007, 06:54 AM   #3
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Nearly all of us use something that gives us more leverage when we cant an FIE blade. That tells you it's hard.
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Old 10-11-2007, 07:24 AM   #4
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Nearly all of us use something that gives us more leverage when we cant an FIE blade.
Like what? Thanks, -Sam
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Old 10-11-2007, 08:27 AM   #5
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I use the acetone pipe (minus the acetone) that I keep around for rewiring.
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Old 10-11-2007, 09:08 AM   #6
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Try looking through these discussions or many others on the topic.

To cant or not to cant?

Consistent cant to foil tangs?

Also, wear work gloves when canting. I've snapped blades while trying to cant them. Gloves are nice protection if that happens.

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Old 10-11-2007, 10:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magic_moose View Post
I use the acetone pipe (minus the acetone) that I keep around for rewiring.
The pipe is a good solution. I have been switching all my blades to Vnitis, which have a reputation for being hard to cant, but I don't have a problem when using this approach.

I start by putting the tang in a bench vise. I leave about 1/8 of an inch between the edge of the vise and the base of the blade. Then I slip a metal pipe over the blade. I pull on the pipe in the direction that I want the blade to go - slow steady pressure for a few seconds. I stop and measure to see if the blade is where I want it and if not, I repeat until it is.

To match the cant of one weapon to another, put the weapon that has the desired cant in the vise, then mount a piece of cardboard vertically on the work bench near the tip of the weapon. Mark a spot on the cardboard where the tip is. Leave the cardboard exactly where it is and mount the new weapon in the vise and cant it. When the tip of the new weapon is pointing to the mark on the cardboard, you're done.
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Old 10-11-2007, 10:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parrythis View Post
I start by putting the tang in a bench vise. I leave about 1/8 of an inch between the edge of the vise and the base of the blade. Then I slip a metal pipe over the blade. I pull on the pipe in the direction that I want the blade to go - slow steady pressure for a few seconds. I stop and measure to see if the blade is where I want it and if not, I repeat until it is.
This is what I'll do at the shop. At tournaments where I don't have a good vice setup, I'll be using the handle of a wrench to get the leverage - for FIE blades it becomes quite entertaining to others.

Craig
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Old 10-11-2007, 01:17 PM   #9
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Has anyone tried putting the tang through the holes in a basement support post (telepost?) then rotating it so that all you need to do is pull straight down on the forte to cant it in the right direction? It's supposedly easier, since all you need to do is use your hands and let gravity do the work for you...

I've been told that this works quite well, but I haven't needed to set a new blade for quite some time and I'd be a little worried about the metal edges of the support post putting nicks into the tang threads.
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Old 10-11-2007, 01:43 PM   #10
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I was just wondering the other day about the cant people put on a Sabre blade.

I assume most people do, right?

I know it's a personal thing, like the cant on an epee blade but what's the
general thought?

Just down? Down and in?

What sort of angle?
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Old 10-11-2007, 01:51 PM   #11
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Be Very Very Careful!

I purchased two of the Absolute FIE blades to complement my assortment of BF and FL FIEs (yes, the FLs are very old!).

First, I would like to say that the Absolute FIE blade which I have mounted and wired has a great feel to it...it really is a great blade so far.

Second, don't try to cant the Absolute FIE blade yourself if you purchase one! Ask them to do it for you. I broke one right at the shoulder of the blade when I was trying to cant it...it took lots of strenth, and it snapped before it bent EVEN A LITTLE. Depending on how you cant your blades (I use a steel tube and a giant vise), it can be dangerous if this happens. I recommend wearing heavy work gloves and long sleeves at a minimum.

When I spoke to Absolute, they said that they prefer to do the cant themselves...so I sent back the broken blade and they sent me a new one with the cant I described to them.
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Old 10-11-2007, 04:50 PM   #12
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great thread. I recant...
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Old 10-11-2007, 06:52 PM   #13
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My current method is sticking the TANG in the vice. Then I grab onto the forte and pull.

It took me a little trial and um... error, to get this canting thing right. On one of my early canting adventures, I just put the blade in the vice and started tapping on the tang with a hammer.

That was a $100 mistake.
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Old 10-12-2007, 11:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beloit Fencer of Old View Post
When I spoke to Absolute, they said that they prefer to do the cant themselves...so I sent back the broken blade and they sent me a new one with the cant I described to them.
Agreed. Why take chances? If the supplier will do the canting for you and you can describe what you want, you need not worry about whether the blade may snap or being injured in the attempt. They will also cut the tang to fit whatever grip you use if not a french.

I have virtually NO armoring aquipment of my own, but my friend and coach(Neevel) is the owner of my club and the division armorer as well so I have learned everything I need to know to build my foils and I do most of my own armoring at his place with his tools. I usually bring some beverages and help work on club equipment as well. He taught me to cant my first blades using a really big wrench - crescent on one end, box on the other for like a 1 1/8" nut. Wrap a bit of tip tape to protect the threads, stick the thread end thru the box end of the wrench and apply even pressure either with the blade in a vise or with the blade in one hand and the wrench in the other bending away from you with your thumbs touching. The last time i did this I was technically "recanting" since he sold me one of his used blades and because he is left-handed and I am righty, I had to move it from about 15 degrees to the right to about 15 degrees to the left. It was a little scary, but I just took my time and applied slow, steady pressure.

Side note: The same wrench can also be used to train a downward curve in a foil blade by bending every inch or so down the length of the blade. If you do this it allows the blade to flex evenly along the full length of the blade and helps prevent the blade bending only at the foible which can potentially cause nasty kinks or worse **snap**

Kirk
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Old 10-14-2007, 06:46 PM   #15
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Everyone speaks of pulling on the blade or tang to cant it. I think that this is a mistake. It's easier to push, and also less dangerous: if the blade snaps, you aren't going to fly back on your butt! Also you can put your weight into it, which makes it less strenuous on your back.
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Old 10-14-2007, 11:20 PM   #16
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I actually have an old, disposable grip from my early days of fencing that I slip onto the tang; laying the blade across the shallow step in my garage (i.e., blade at a 45 degree angle, with the grip touching the floor and the forte about 2" up supported on the step), I can judiciously use a 3-lb mallet on the part of the grip just below where the tang meets the forte and gradually cant the blade any direction I like (up, down, right, left) ... the grip protects the threads and adds support to the tang in all directions so that the cant occurs in the right place (where force is being applied), it takes a minimum of effort on my part, and I find it to be much more controlled than hand-torquing the blade on a vise. As with all suggestions, YMMV.
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Old 10-15-2007, 11:35 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D+F+P=Hadouken! View Post
My current method is sticking the TANG in the vice. Then I grab onto the forte and pull.

Yes, me, too. I put the tang in, with about a cm (a little less than half an inch) or so sticking out, and then it's easy peasy lemon squeezie, even though I am about the size of the original poster. Not leaving enough sticking out just makes the job unnecissarily hard - I used to leave only about 1/8 inch, and then would have to wedge my feet against the table and kind of straighten my legs to get the bend, essentially standing on the side of the bench, perpendicular to gravity. Or go find a big burly guy, which got to be rather a drag for them after a while.
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Old 10-15-2007, 11:36 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sir alasdair View Post
Side note: The same wrench can also be used to train a downward curve in a foil blade by bending every inch or so down the length of the blade. If you do this it allows the blade to flex evenly along the full length of the blade and helps prevent the blade bending only at the foible which can potentially cause nasty kinks or worse **snap**

Kirk
It is also polite to your opponents.

Even more so in Epee.

If a good size fencer fleches against you or extends when you fleche against them and the arm is straight and no bend in the blade, a person can be injured. A smooth curve in the blade avoids that.

You also avoid the possibility that the first bend in the blade will be in the wrong direction, beneficial for the blade in the long run.
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Old 10-15-2007, 02:04 PM   #19
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Is it really a matter of canting? Or is it merely won'ting? Or even possibly wouldn'ting? Hmmmmmmm.
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Old 10-15-2007, 05:21 PM   #20
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Is it really a matter of canting? Or is it merely won'ting? Or even possibly wouldn'ting? Hmmmmmmm.
There's no hyphen, you have the wrong cant.

Wikipedia:

Cant is an example of a cryptolect, a characteristic or secret language used only by members of a group, often used to conceal the meaning from those outside the group.

Like when fencers talk to each other or, even better, when referees talk to each other, or armorers.

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