Multi Tester for Retards like Me!

[Beloit Fencer of Old]

I searched the threads...just so you know!

I have a GB GDT-190a. I have no idea how to use it, and I probably threw the directions away 12 years ago.

Question: How can I use this to test the resistance in foils, lames and bodycords?

Now...Assume I'm a retard here! Theres a red probe and a black probe. Two probes. THREE places to plug them in. One is labeled 10A Unfused, one is labeled V followed by the Ohm symbol then mA, 1000vDC 2a Max, then the third one is labeled COM, 500v max. Also, the dial allows me to position the tester for DC 1000, 200, 20, 2000m and 200m. Or, I can position it for OHM 2000k, 200k, 20k, 2000 or 200. Then there is a position with a symbol which looks like an old Apollo space capsule with a line crossing its tip, another position which is labeled 10A, then DC A 200u, 2000u, 20m, 200m, and 2000m. The last positions, besides off, are AC V 750 and 200.

What should I do?

Thanks, smart people!

BFO

[jfarmer]

Plug the black cord into the socket marked COM. The Red cord goes into the socket marked with the V and the ohm symbol. If you place the switch in the DC position and touch the ends of the probes together, you should get a sound or light or something to indicated a direct connection. If you want to read the resistance across two points, for example the two socket connection in a foil, place the switch in the lowest reading resistance scale, looks like it's marked 200 on your meter. The touch one socket with the black probe, and the other socket with the red probe. It should indicate the resistance through the foil wire, the tip, and back through the blade, socket mount, etc.

That enough? I can go on, and on, and on.... As my students will attest.

John Farmer
Coach & Armourer, Oak Ridge Fencers Club

[Beloit Fencer of Old]

Originally Posted by jfarmer

Plug the black cord into the socket marked COM. The Red cord goes into the socket marked with the V and the ohm symbol. If you place the switch in the DC position and touch the ends of the probes together, you should get a sound or light or something to indicated a direct connection. If you want to read the resistance across two points, for example the two socket connection in a foil, place the switch in the lowest reading resistance scale, looks like it's marked 200 on your meter. The touch one socket with the black probe, and the other socket with the red probe. It should indicate the resistance through the foil wire, the tip, and back through the blade, socket mount, etc.

That enough? I can go on, and on, and on.... As my students will attest.

John Farmer
Coach & Armourer, Oak Ridge Fencers Club

Coach Farmer, thank you very much! From this information I will be able to get started and experiment. I appreciate the time you took to help me out!

BFO

[erooMynohtnA]

I'm just waiting for someone sensitive to find this thread and flip out because you implied retards are somehow not as smart as everyone else.

[Beloit Fencer of Old]

Originally Posted by erooMynohtnA

I'm just waiting for someone sensitive to find this thread and flip out because you implied retards are somehow not as smart as everyone else.

Yeah. I'm perhaps not the most "diplomatic" of individuals...outside of work. Ohhh do I have stories. There's probably a thread for that.

[brtech]

Some more info:

You want the switch setting on OHM 200.
As jfarmer says, black lead on COM, red lead on V/Ohm

First, look on the meter scale for OHMs. Is the zero ohms on the left or the right? On most meters, it will be on the right. Every meter will have zero DC volts (and AC volts and MA or Amps) on the left.

With the meter set for something OTHER THAN ohms, say DC Volts, the meter pointer should be to the left. If it's not exactly on zero, there should be an adjustment right on the meter where the pointer pivots. Set it to zero.

When you turn the scale selector to OHMS 200, the meter should swing to infinite ohms (probably all the way to the right).

Then, connect the red lead to the black lead. The meter should swing to zero ohms. There should be an adjustment for zero. It's usually on the right just below the meter. It's dependent on the battery in the meter. Adjust it for zero with the black lead firmly connected to the red lead. Do this every time you take the meter out. If you can't get the meter to read zero ohms when the two leads are connected to each other, meaning the adjustment moves the pointer, but not far enough, you have to replace the battery in the meter.

Then you are ready to test. Connect the leads to B & C socket on a foil, A and B on an epee. It doesn't matter which lead is which.

[Beloit Fencer of Old]

More thanks!

The display on my tester is digital, by the way. It sounds like the one you're describing has an analog display. Do testers with digital readouts suck? Should I replace it with a different meter?

[RkfdFencer]

Originally Posted by Beloit Fencer of Old

The display on my tester is digital, by the way. It sounds like the one you're describing has an analog display. Do testers with digital readouts suck? Should I replace it with a different meter?

I know a proficient armorer that prefers the digital readout. I have an analog meter, but then, I am not a proficient armorer.

[erooMynohtnA]

Originally Posted by Beloit Fencer of Old

More thanks!

The display on my tester is digital, by the way. It sounds like the one you're describing has an analog display. Do testers with digital readouts suck? Should I replace it with a different meter?

Digital meters aren't as sensitive as analog. (Or rather, the refresh is too slow.) What might be a momentary wiggle on a needle won't show up on a digital readout, and sometimes that's what you need.

Really, it's personal preference. I prefer digital, but that's only because I have a very nice one that was a gift, and most analogs I run into are crap.

[Beloit Fencer of Old]

Originally Posted by erooMynohtnA

Digital meters aren't as sensitive as analog. (Or rather, the refresh is too slow.) What might be a momentary wiggle on a needle won't show up on a digital readout, and sometimes that's what you need.

Really, it's personal preference. I prefer digital, but that's only because I have a very nice one that was a gift, and most analogs I run into are crap.

Thank you...I will assume that my digital is at least good enough for who it's for. (ended sentence in preposition due the fact that I'm paraphrasing a funny person my dad used to work with) ((damn! that time I just ended a sentence in a prepostion for no good reason!))

[the ancient one]

Here is something you might try:

I have found that many hand-held multimeters have a 20mm spacing between the common and V-Ω sockets. Since they use the same banana pin as fencing equipment it is possible to plug a body wire directly into the meter. For epee it is really straightforward. For foil you have to put the alligator clip to the 3rd pin.

I have attached some photos to illustrate.

As an added bonus I show how to use a paper clip to short out a bayonet cord. This way you can look at the resistance of all 3 legs of the wire. No good for isolating a bad wire, but once you know the resistance of the cord, you can attach a foil and calculate the added resistance.

Many digital meters now have a bargraph across the bottom with a fast response which shows the relative stability of the circuit.

[Beloit Fencer of Old]

Originally Posted by the ancient one

Here is something you might try:

I have found that many hand-held multimeters have a 20mm spacing between the common and V-Ω sockets. Since they use the same banana pin as fencing equipment it is possible to plug a body wire directly into the meter. For epee it is really straightforward. For foil you have to put the alligator clip to the 3rd pin.

I have attached some photos to illustrate.

As an added bonus I show how to use a paper clip to short out a bayonet cord. This way you can look at the resistance of all 3 legs of the wire. No good for isolating a bad wire, but once you know the resistance of the cord, you can attach a foil and calculate the added resistance.

Many digital meters now have a bargraph across the bottom with a fast response which shows the relative stability of the circuit.

Wow...how cool is this???

[SJCFU#2]

I find that a weapons tester that detects micro breaks (like the Favero A-01 tester) can be very useful for catching intermittent breaks in body cords such as might be caused by loose screws int he pin (something I've seen a lot of lately). Just short the A and B or B and C pins together with a jumper or a saber socket (the rest of the saber is optional) and start looking for yellow lights as you flex the wire (you can also clip the A line of a foil/saber body cord directly to the metal case of the Favero tester).

It's no replacement for checking the resistance in each line with an ohmmeter, but it helps to pick up things the ohmmeter might miss and it's even simple enough for students who know nothing more than "yellow light is bad".

[brtech]

Digital meters will read infinite (often 1999) with no connection when switched to ohms. Some good ones will self zero.

I use analog. It's much harder to tell an intermittent connection with digital. The bar graph is useful, but it's not as good as a good analog meter.

The coolest trick along the lines of the last couple of posts is the version of Ted Li's tiniest tester that Ron Herman has. It has two banana plugs on the bottom of the box that fit into the sockets on the meter. The box is around 5/8" thick, and about as wide as the meter, with the rotary switch on the side. Ron takes the whole assembly to the strip.