Or, more accurately, I modified a test box to make it more useful.
My coach gave me an old test box of his. It was one of the standards ones with two lights for a BC and an AB short.
I added extra sockets on the other side for both two prong foil and epee, and three new LEDs so I could test the A, B, and C lines simultaneously. I added the two screws at the bottom and connected them electrically to the A-lines, to test sabre mask cords and the alligator clip on foil cords.
The switch is there because without it, the grounding lights would light up even if the cord wasn't grounding because of the way it was originally wired. So when the switch is down, the box doesn't test for grounding, and when it's up, it does.
I don't know the exact cost because I already had most of the parts, but I think it was about $20 (on top of the original box).
It doesn't test for resistance, but it's only for club use.
Or, more accurately, I modified a test box to make it more useful.
My coach gave me an old test box of his. It was one of the standards ones with two lights for a BC and an AB short.
I added extra sockets on the other side for both two prong foil and epee, and three new LEDs so I could test the A, B, and C lines simultaneously. I added the two screws at the bottom and connected them electrically to the A-lines, to test sabre mask cords and the alligator clip on foil cords.
The switch is there because without it, the grounding lights would light up even if the cord wasn't grounding because of the way it was originally wired. So when the switch is down, the box doesn't test for grounding, and when it's up, it does.
I don't know the exact cost because I already had most of the parts, but I think it was about $20 (on top of the original box).
It doesn't test for resistance, but it's only for club use.
Anyone have comments?
Dude, its INGENIOUS!!!
Build me one and send it to me. The only constructively critical comment I could make is that the screws need to be somewhat more sturdily constructed or just made to look a tad nicer. The rest is perfect.
I sense that you should build a few and sell them.
Well he can do like some do and just build a couple of them. He doesn't have to go all business like.
I'd offer $25-30 for it. any more than that and I'd just build it myself.
FF
No, it's that much plus the cost of the original test box, about $20. So $30 + $20 = $50. For me it was almost free because I had everything already.
I've already tried it out. It works fine, so far.
I'm not very good at soldering (this is literally the first time I've ever done it), so if I can do it, so can you. I can post the circuit if you want.
No, it's that much plus the cost of the original test box, about $20. So $30 + $20 = $50. For me it was almost free because I had everything already.
I've already tried it out. It works fine, so far.
I'm not very good at soldering (this is literally the first time I've ever done it), so if I can do it, so can you. I can post the circuit if you want.
Please do. I have a triplette test box that you can clip on a belt to test if you can flick or not.
I wonder how I can modify that box to flick under new timings without too much expense
We would need a schematic, with the parts values. If we had one, we could probably figure out how to fix it. It may be really simple (a new resistor value) or it may be complex (add a new active component and a couple of passives). Depends on how they implemented the circuit.
Or, more accurately, I modified a test box to make it more useful.
My coach gave me an old test box of his. It was one of the standards ones with two lights for a BC and an AB short.
I added extra sockets on the other side for both two prong foil and epee, and three new LEDs so I could test the A, B, and C lines simultaneously. I added the two screws at the bottom and connected them electrically to the A-lines, to test sabre mask cords and the alligator clip on foil cords.
The switch is there because without it, the grounding lights would light up even if the cord wasn't grounding because of the way it was originally wired. So when the switch is down, the box doesn't test for grounding, and when it's up, it does.
I don't know the exact cost because I already had most of the parts, but I think it was about $20 (on top of the original box).
It doesn't test for resistance, but it's only for club use.
We would need a schematic, with the parts values. If we had one, we could probably figure out how to fix it. It may be really simple (a new resistor value) or it may be complex (add a new active component and a couple of passives). Depends on how they implemented the circuit.
I'll open it up and takes some close up photos... will that help you? I couldn't do a circuit diagram to save my life.
Originally Posted by mrbiggs 
