How to fix Epée screws if they cannot remove from the barrel

[vicepang]

Please help

One of my BF suck with the screws

the screw driver cannot remove them

[noodle]

Originally Posted by vicepang

Please help

One of my BF suck with the screws

the screw driver cannot remove them

dremmel. you're going to have to cut it out.

[JEC]

Position the tip so that the screw is in the middle of the barrel slot. A thin dremmel tool can create a new slot on the face of the screw, allowing to use of a flat screwdriver.

If that fails and you lose a portion of the screw face, then you will need to use a tiny drill bit to destroy the screw and release the tip. Pretty much, you would be losing the tip, but saving the barrel and wired blade for a new tip. You don't want to screw up the barrel slot, otherwise, you will need to re-wire the blade and place a new barrel.

[fencerbill]

Originally Posted by JEC

Position the tip so that the screw is in the middle of the barrel slot. A thin dremmel tool can create a new slot on the face of the screw, allowing to use of a flat screwdriver.

If that fails and you lose a portion of the screw face, then you will need to use a tiny drill bit to destroy the screw and release the tip. Pretty much, you would be losing the tip, but saving the barrel and wired blade for a new tip. You don't want to screw up the barrel slot, otherwise, you will need to re-wire the blade and place a new barrel.

I use the Dremel engraving bits instead of drill bits to burn out German Foil screws, they should work for immovable Epee screws as well. The engraving bit is a small ball on the end of a very thin stalk. It can be controlled better than a drill bit. For German Foil screws I use 1/32 inch diameter. You might be able to use 1/16 inch for the Epee screws.

[LeonPaulUSA]

I've become pretty good at using a box cutter to carefully cut a slot in the old screw and then very gently backing it out with a screwdriver. If it's wedged in, a rocking motion seems to help loosen it.

Bill

[Barry Paul]

As the top is normally ruined I hit the screw with a drift with a hammer sideways until it falls out.

A quick ream and put in a new top.

[brtech]

Originally Posted by Barry Paul

As the top is normally ruined I hit the screw with a drift with a hammer sideways until it falls out.

A quick ream and put in a new top.

I'll have to have you show me this. You can punch the drift through the screw without buggering the threads?

Sacrificing the tip would be fine if this worked reliably enough.

How big is the drift? I'd ask where you buy it, but it probably wouldn't do me any good on the "other" side of the pond.

[Barry Paul]

Well thinking about this the drift is normally the point screw driver which is often ruined in the process (but I do get them wholesale.) but it is still cheaper than the cost of a re-wire. If I was a full time armourer I would make a chisel shaped hard steel drift.

[fencerbill]

Originally Posted by Barry Paul

As the top is normally ruined I hit the screw with a drift with a hammer sideways until it falls out.

A quick ream and put in a new top.

It is always worth while to find more techniques that work.

But you, and others among us f.net addicts, have to do these things in cost effective ways.

As opposed to the hobbyist fencer who is less concerned with how long we work on these things and who feel a certain triumph at saving the tip to re-use.

I have tried the box cutter method but lately have been using the Dremel with thin cutting disk to revive the screw slot. I don't mind if the Epee (or German Foil) barrel is marked up a little.