Leon Paul Spartan Range 350N Jacket

[fencerwallet]

Competition: The best 350N full stretch gear that money can buy!

My son uses the Competition clothing. I can truly say this stuff is really worth the money. It also fits better (nicer cut) than Uhlmann and others, and keeps it's fit. One thing, heat literally melts the Transpor, so any patches, etc. should not be ironed on. Anyway, I have converted so many of the flock to this one, I should get a commiission.

[LeftHanded]

Yeah, I think the biggest thing holding me back is money. I am a student so I got club dues, gas, entrance fees, etc. to pay so money is tight on a limited income. How long do the Comp. range jackets last? You said the don't, "bobble"? What? I also am looking for a mask so I got some serious money going out of my pocket.

[Alex_Paul]

Some cheap jacket and for that matter some not so cheap oneds tend to go bobbly on the surface after a while.

They last...

depends on how much you fence! Years... 2-5 I guess

[LeftHanded]

I fence one or twice a week with tournaments on the weekends. Also when you say Bobbled do you mean when the material starts to form those wierd beads on the surface of the material?

I need something that I am going to get the most for my money

[KD5MDK]

I would presume he does. It's what happened to my first jacket, an ultra cheap Physical Chess model.

[Alex_Paul]

when you say Bobbled do you mean when the material starts to form those wierd beads on the surface of the material?

Exactly, lots of cheap jackets do it...

The spartan will not though

[Craig]

Some cheap jacket and for that matter some not so cheap oneds tend to go bobbly on the surface after a while.

Alex - on this side of the pond we call that "pilling".

Though, you could just give that jacket a shave:
http://www.ehow.com/how_113477_remov...-clothing.html



Craig

[LeftHanded]

Alex - on this side of the pond we call that "pilling".

Though, you could just give that jacket a shave:
http://www.ehow.com/how_113477_remov...-clothing.html



Craig

I need to do that to a blanket of mine. Thanks for the link

[LeftHanded]

Hooray for payday!!!! I may go for the more expensive comtetion model. The thing is that I am not crazy about ordering without trying it on. The fit is really the big problem with my currect jacket. I lost weight once I fenced for a while so it is too baggy. I would like the new jacket to fit a little tighter but don't want to get one that is too small. Will they take it back if it is too small or too big

[Tomas N]

I ordered my LP competition range a couple of weeks ago from Craig. The 42 was too small...the 44 fit nicely. A little short in the arms for a guy who is 6'2", but otherwise it's a very nice cut. Not a lot of excess fabric around the torso, so it won't fit a guy with a 42" chest and a 50" waist. Unlike my FIE Uhlmann jacket, the velcro closes well and the flap that is supposed to cover the zipper actually does so.

I overheat quite easily. The LP competition jacket is the coolest jacket I've ever worn. I actually feel like there is a breeze coming through the jacket. With a FIE plastron and mask, I feel perfectly safe.

Tomas

[oso97]

Spartan and USFA are going to be the same item.

I do use competition range and an FIE out of choice over anything else.

The wicking lining in the Competition is really amazing.

Check out the videos here is a standard wicking material like under armour http://www.transpor.com/transpor/videos/wiw2.mpg

and here is Transpor http://www.transpor.com/transpor/videos/wiw1.mpg

The transpor is light years ahead

I don't need FIE because I consider an 800N plastron and 350N jacket to be enough for normal use.

The Competition range will be WAY more comfortable than any cheap FIE jacket.

The Cheap allstar FIE is I believe just made from two layers of the same material we use for the spartan/USFA jacket.

Alex

*ahem* Not to cast aspersions or anything, but those tests are, what is the term Inq would use? Ah yes. Flawed.

For starters, they are not set up identically. Notice in the first one, the paper towels are put under the material AFTER application of water. In the second one, the paper towels are under the material before the water is applied.

Secondly, there is no way to tell if the size of the drops is consistent from the first test to the second. It would be better to use a pipet to put a defined amount of water. Or better yet, a multi-pipet dispensing several drops at once.

Third, there needs to be a calibration for temperature (both of material and ambient air) and ambient humidity.

Fourth, the pressure applied to the paper towel may or may not be consistent between tests. Better to use a roller bar to give a consistent pressure downwards.