Schematics, if you know how to read them, are the best way to communicate how a test box is built. If you don't, a verbal description is probably best; it's pretty hard to illustrate it other than a schematic.
I go with Twister, build a simple one meter test box. You need a 6 position, two pole rotary switch. You might find it at Radio Shack. You will find it on line. A good example is:
http://www.futurlec.com/Switches/ROTP2P6pr.shtml
(I love futurlec, prices are super low, shipping is super low, no minimum order)
A knob would be nice. You may have to shorten the shaft on the switch
http://www.futurlec.com/SwKnob.shtml
You need jacks to plug your cords into. A lot of test boxes use plain banana jacks like:
http://www.futurlec.com/Banana-Posts.shtml
plus a bayonet socket. Another option is to get two epee sockets, a two prong socket and a bayonet socket. This solves one problem of using banana jacks, which is how you get the socket for the skinny 2 pin.
You need a couple of posts to clip alligators to. You can use a banana plug mounted through the panel and a nut, or you can just use a screw with a nut on the top. I use a screw through a short length of brass tubing with a nut on the top and two nuts on the bottom. Put a star washer between the panel and the screw head or first nut. The wire goes under the screw head or between the two nuts on the bottom.
You need two banana plugs to connect to your meter:
http://www.futurlec.com/Banana-BananaPlugs.shtml
Use some nice wire on them. Old body cord wire will be fine.
Then you need a box to put it in:
http://www.futurlec.com/ProjectBoxes.shtml
Start by laying out the box. Probably best to put the reel 3 prong on the left and both 2 prongs and the fencer side 3 prongs on the right. The switch can go in the middle, or maybe on a side of the box. Drill and mount all the sockets and the switch. Drill two holes on the back for the wires that go to the meter. On most switches, there is a little post sticking up on the shaft side. Make a hole for the post in your box. This holds the switch in position when you rotate the knob. It usually takes me about twice as long to do this part as it does to wire the box, but I have lots of wiring experience.
Okay, now the tricky part. Wiring.
Start by connecting the B line of the bayonet to the B line of the 2 pin, and the C line of the bayonet to the C line of the 2 pin. One of the bayonet connections is easy: the screw terminal. The other is the strap. Best to drill a hole in the strap and put a screw and nut to put a wire under. Connect the left clip post to the reel end A and the right clip lead to the fencer end A
Okay, now figure out how your switch works. There are two sections ("poles") and each section has one contact for the wiper, and 6 contacts for the positions. Turn the switch to the full counterclockwise position, identify the wiper contacts (they are usually distinctive) and find out which contact the first position is using your ohmmeter. One contact is connected to the wiper (for each pole) in each switch position. Draw a sketch of your switch and mark position 1 for each pole. Rotate the switch clockwise one click and identify the second position contacts. There is a pattern, but sometimes it's not so obvious. When you are sure you understand what the contacts do, let's wire the switch.
It's easier to start wiring with the switch out of the box if you can clamp it in a small vise or something. Use a pencil soldering iron and some 22 or 24 gauge solid wire.
The way you wire it is to achieve the following result:
Code:
Position Test
1 A
2 B
3 C
4 A-B reverse
5 B-C reverse
6 A-C reverse
To do this, you make the following connections
Pole 1 Position 1 to Pole 1 position 4 to Pole 1 position 6 (Reel end A)
Pole 1 Position 2 to Pole 1 position 5 (Reel end B)
Pole 2 Position 2 to Pole 2 position 4 (Fencer end B)
Pole 2 Position 3 to Pole 2 position 5 to Pole 2 position 6 (Fencer end C)
Now mount your switch in the box.
Okay, final wiring:
The wipers go to the wires that exit the back to your meter with banana plugs on the meter ends.
Pole 1 position 1 - Reel end A
Pole 1 position 2 - Reel end B
Pole 1 position 3 - Reel end C
Pole 2 position 1 - Fencer end A
Pole 2 position 2 - Fencer end B
Pole 2 position 3 - Fencer end C
Visual Inspect: at this point, every connector should have at least one wire on every terminal, and every contact on the switch (14 = 1 wiper and 6 contacts per pole) should have at least one wire on it (at least if I typed the instructions right, and you built it right)
Now check it.
Plug your meter into your box. You should see infinite ohms.
Take a piece of wire (a test lead with banana plugs on both ends is handy)
Connect Reel A to Fencer A.
You should see zero ohms when the switch is in position 1, and no other position. Try this with the clip posts also. You should have the same result.
Connect Reel B to Fencer B
You should see zero ohms when the switch is in position 2. Try the 2 pin B and the bayonet B
Connect Reel C to Fencer C
You should see zero ohms when the switch is in position 3. Try the 2 pin C and the bayonet C
Connect Reel A to Fencer B
You should see zero ohms when the switch is in position 4.
Connect Reel B to Fencer C
You should see zero ohms when the switch is in position 5.
Connect Reel A to Fencer C
You should see zero ohms when the switch is in position 6
If you need to troubleshoot, isolate the problem to one side. Start by leaving the connection to pole 1 wiper on the test box, unplug the other wire and put the test wire that came with the meter. Use the test lead and see if you can see:
Reel A in position 1 (and left clip)
Reel B in position 2
Reel C in position 3
Reel A in position 4
Reel B in position 5
Reel A in position 6
Now unplug the pole one wire and plug in the pole 2 wire. Use the test lead to confirm
Fencer A in position 1 (and right clip)
Fencer B in position 2 (and 2 pin B/bayonet B)
Fencer C in position 3 (and 2 pin C/bayonet C)
Fencer B in position 4
Fencer C in position 5
Fencer C in position 6
Good luck. Send us a picture.
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