Blue blades

[roverix]

Why would you want blades that have been blued? It not a very good treatment for steel in that it would scratch off pretty easily. It isn't that great at preventing rust as you still have to keep a light coating of oil on a gun to prevent rust. Or does it just look good?

[neevel]

If you're referring to Blaise Freres FIE blades, there is a difference in stiffness between the blue and non-blue blades- both are distinctly on the stiff side, but the blues are more resilent feeling and flex a bit more smoothly (Duellist describes them as feeling "springier" on their website) . The blue color serves to distinguish the two (if you think about it, it does make inventory control easier to have different models of blades readily identifiable at first sight, especially if they appear identical otherwise). Blueing just for corrosion reistance is redundant with maraging, since it's a type of stainless steel.

-Dave Neevel

[latenight]

I agree with what dave has said. It is also beneficial to remember that the blue blades also come in non-maraging. i have several of these and have yet to see the first sign of rust on them. And hey, the look neat too! Sorta like the gold blades you see once in a while. One note, I had a heck of a time rewiring one of these blue blades until I scraped the "blue" out of the groove. glue (at least five minute epoxy) doesn't seem to stick real well to the blue finish.

[Drweed]

Im curious... Are the color of these blades (blue or gold) result from a surface coating or are they a part of the tempering process...

thanks...

[fred]

Surface layer. I have a pair of Triplette BF "gold" blades. They're not really "gold" in the first place, they are sort of a dirty brass color, and they rust like champions. The reason I know it's surface, is that if I sand them, I get white metal almost immediately. I don't know about blueing, but I doubt it's different. Whether it's better for corrosion resistance, I also wouldn't know, but the point on guns is cogent, and I also notice that no manufacturer seems to advertise the blades as having any better corrosion properties.

If you want to prevent rust, save the $5 on the color and go to the hardware store and get a can of rust inhibitor and spray those babies down. I've now tried:

- LPS Rust Inhibitor. $3.50 at my local True Value, probably most auto suppliers. Dries clear and is not sticky, forms a thin waxy layer.

- Dinitrol AV-30 aviation rust inhibitor. Approved by Boeing, Airbus, and many local military organizations. Have a pilot colleague who lent me a can. Evil, avoid it and like substances. It's orange, smells terrible, and dries to a tacky feel (despite being advertised as "tack free". Probably excellent inside aircraft wings, lousy on fencing irons.

Been going about 3 months on both substances, and both seem to be doing the trick, but we shall see. I've also heard good things about a substance called Corrosion-X that is used in marine and aerospace applications, I think it is closer to $10 a can.

I have heard of people using WD-40. If any of these people apply a weapon onto my lame with a coating of WD-40, beatings will result......loosen rusty bolts, ok, don't put it on your weapons.

--fb

[flik]

I disagree about the WD40... been using it for about 5 months now w/ no problems yet. the trick is NOT to apply it to the weapon directly - spray a *small* amount on a rag and then wipe it on the blade. doing it this way avoids the oil slick on the weapon which transfers to your opponent. it's cheap, it's easy, no drying time, and if done right your opponents won't even know it. I do this to my weapons after each practice before I throw them in my bag.

-Jeremy

[Cutter]

Okay, but what about for sabre? Does the rust spray cause problems with conductivity?

------------------
Cutter
Reach out and "touch" someone.

[flik]

WD40 doesn't affect the conductivity of your sabre blade. If you're still concerned about it though, it wipes off just as easy as it goes on... a rag and some acetone or ethanol.
I've never had a problem losing a touch because my blade was treated. losing a touch b/c of ROW, a bad body cord, or bad reels are a different story entirely... (da**ed ROW !)

[fred]

Good question on the conductivity. All of the compounds I've looked at are insulators. I don't fence sabre, I could see it being a problem, yes. Or epee, for that matter, which I do fence, but you'd have to get a tip closure on the blade, which hasn't happened to me. My opponents usually find plenty of arm to work with.

Re: the all-purpose wonder-spray, WD-40....it's got to leave an oil layer on the blade, right, it's pretty much an oily lubricant. So rust would be inhibited, yes, but it's going to wipe off on things. My uniform I wash, but I would just as soon not get my lame oiled, it's stainless steel and doesn't need rust inhibition.