2 questions about sabre

[Black Knight]

What sabre guard do you prefer (brand and model)? Do you prefer heavy pommel? Or light?

I'm using the Prieur superlight sabre guard. It's ok but a bit soft.

[oiuyt]

Whatever happens to be convenient.

Ditto.

Equipment's just not that important, it's how one uses it.

I have tons of equipment lying around from various purchases over the years. I think my competition sabres are probably mostly or all various BG guards, including at least a couple of light guards and a couple of standard. My pommels all look generic except for a couple from LP that tighten with a hex wrench, rather than vise grips/pliers.

I have a couple of massive pommels from my first two sabres (Triplette) that are sufficiently heavy that they make the weapon feel weird. I don't use them.

Blades matter much more than guards/pommels in my experience, but even there it's not a lot.

-B

[MyrddinsPrecint]

Sabre fencers tend to care a lot less about what's in their hand than foil or epee fencers. What's nice is to have all of your sabres have vaguely similar feels so that you don't have such a preference towards one that if it breaks you're upset...... and there are some sabre fencers who have very specific preferences , but it's just not discussed as much because the parts of the weapon just don't change or predict someone's game in sabre. On the other hand, if someone's a foilist using a french grip, you can tell something. Even (in epee) vniti vs. BF Blues can potentially tell you something...........Sabre? not so much..............

[Peach]

What MyrddinsPrecinct said. I prefer a lightweight guard, a rubber grip, and very light, well-balanced blades canted down and in at the tang. That and lots of tape on the pommel and the bottom of the guard. Oh, yeah, and my name on it somewhere so when i mislay it I can find it again, along with a number so I know which one it is. Otherwise, brand doesn't matter.

Basically, a good fencing sabre is a collection of parts. The blade breaks, the guard gets dented, the grip gets frayed and worn? Replace.

[Inquartata]

I have a hodge-podge of "newer" sabres and older ones, lighter and heavier. I have a couple of Absolute complete sabres that I bought when my luggage didn't make it to the Richmond NAC. ( I had to have them uncant the blades after they bent then without asking first. ) I have a steel Santelli guard with a big, heavy Triplette pommel ( insulated with Shoe Goo ). I have three or four that fall in between in weightiness; one has an old Allstar guard that is larger than the ones you find today, and looks larger still because it once broke off at the pommel---I drilled a new hole, filed the tail smooth and remounted it.

Still, it doesn't look as odd as Brad's "stirrup-hilts".

Most of mine are assemblages of disparate parts from various makers. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.

[MyrddinsPrecint]

Also, let's point out that of the four people who responded, everyone other than me has been doing this for a while, and these are kind of a who's-who list of the die-hards--- Both those who post/read a LOT here, and those who tend to fence a lot.

If people were going to have decisive opinions on what does and does not work for them, it would probably be these people.

[GypsyScot]

My favorite sabre is made with an Absolute Elite Blade, (since 1999 everything I use must be light and quick,) with an old Allstar Guard the model from 1996 before they rounded out the bell. I usually just cant the blade down.
I'll often switch between a modern plastic insulated pommel and a steel pommel I've heavily insulated for a more weightless blade. I have a Santelli Pommel I love to death and will often thread an AF Elite blade for it. (one of the nice little things that come with working for a supplier)

... I do have 3 france lame blades from 1997 in my garage, sitting in oil, god I'd love to brake those out, say what you will about the strong s2000 blade, but my old style of fencing was a hell of alot of fun...

If anyone has or know where one could find an old insulation sleeve for my "skinny" hilt, I'd be much obliged.

[oiuyt]

Originally Posted by GypsyScot

If anyone has or know where one could find an old insulation sleeve for my "skinny" hilt, I'd be much obliged.

*rummages around for a bit and resurfaces with a roll of tape*

-B

[MyrddinsPrecint]

pun intended?

[GypsyScot]

Originally Posted by oiuyt

*rummages around for a bit and resurfaces with a roll of tape*

-B

I'm rocking the electrical tape with a Gamma tape coating, hoping to do something a little more... uh... pretensious.

ps. oiuyt, how did Keri Ecker do her last year 05-06?

[KD5MDK]

Originally Posted by GypsyScot

I'm rocking the electrical tape with a Gamma tape coating, hoping to do something a little more... uh... pretensious.

I like how it's the vendor asking us

[fencerbill]

Did you know that some 1999 Sabre blades will pass the new bending requirement? You can't be sure that there will be a capability to test them and mark them.

It is just that all Sabre blades 2000 and later SHOULD pass. I once was able to test a whole batch of 25 S2000 blades. Only one or two failed and then just barely. All were effectively the correct stiffness.

[GypsyScot]

Originally Posted by KD5MDK

I like how it's the vendor asking us

Molding and running off a small run for myself would be way too costly, I was hoping there are others out there who, like myself, scout out awesome sabre gear, selling gear may pay the bills, but I'd much rather be using it.

[fencerbill]

Originally Posted by GypsyScot

If anyone has or know where one could find an old insulation sleeve for my "skinny" hilt, I'd be much obliged.

Sleeves made for the particular shape of the guard are the best.

If none are available, the following may be useful.

Heat shrink tubing used in electronics. You do need access to a good electrical supplier. You have to make sure you get the thickest available. Fortunately, the larger sizes are more likely to be thicker.

There is a limit to how much the tubing will shrink. You are unlikely to find a size that will accommodate the range in width of your guard. But you can get a smaller size for near the end, a middle size and a larger size for furthest from the end. If you start from the small end you can then overlap the other pieces. With luck and a good selection to start from, you should get something that will be suitable. My experience is that the edges get cut up fastest at the thicker end. You may just have to replace that piece most often.