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Old 05-25-2007, 01:07 PM   #1
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Coloring the Blades?

OK, I've been seeing these new 'colored' blades being sold by different vendors, and (being cheep and poor) I was wondering how to go about 'decorating' my old worn plain vanilla blades (all of which are some 3-8 years old...). I have heard that so called 'alcohol' dyes work well on metals, but I was wondering if anyone out there had ideas on what to use.
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Old 05-26-2007, 12:13 AM   #2
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Disclaimer: I haven't tried this


So I hear that one can color a blade by using an electrolite solution, power source, and a ground. From what I've heard it actually would strengthen the blade and have no ill effects.
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Old 05-26-2007, 06:51 PM   #3
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The material rules forbid any "treatment" of the blades.
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Old 05-26-2007, 07:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inquartata View Post
The material rules forbid any "treatment" of the blades.
M.1 only lists mechanical methods of treating blades; I expect electrochemical processes would fall under "other methods", but in typical FIE fashion the rule raises more exegetical questions than it answers.
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Old 05-26-2007, 10:23 PM   #5
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Old 05-26-2007, 10:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inquartata View Post
The material rules forbid any "treatment" of the blades.
Given that the manufacturers sometimes coat the blades in much the same manner as Eric is asking about, i don;t think that's the treatment being referred to.

More likely it referring to any treatement that can affect flexibility...like certain grinding.
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Old 05-27-2007, 01:05 PM   #7
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Ted Li has described to a fellow group of armorers how, at the Olympics, they use an electrical process to put an Olympic symbol on blades at equipment control.
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Old 05-27-2007, 01:26 PM   #8
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Erik:

If you want to try this, go for it. Go a gun shop. Ask them for a bottle of "blueing" material. Its liquid, wipe on leave on and wipe clean kind of process. Same process that is made when coloring a rifle barrel. Its really not worth it and if not done correctly, you will really upset some other fencer when you get it on their lame or jacket.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by erik_blank View Post
OK, I've been seeing these new 'colored' blades being sold by different vendors, and (being cheep and poor) I was wondering how to go about 'decorating' my old worn plain vanilla blades (all of which are some 3-8 years old...). I have heard that so called 'alcohol' dyes work well on metals, but I was wondering if anyone out there had ideas on what to use.
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Old 05-27-2007, 05:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twisterfencing View Post
Erik:

If you want to try this, go for it. Go a gun shop. Ask them for a bottle of "blueing" material. Its liquid, wipe on leave on and wipe clean kind of process. Same process that is made when coloring a rifle barrel. Its really not worth it and if not done correctly, you will really upset some other fencer when you get it on their lame or jacket.

Gary Spruill
A buddy of mine did this to a dry blade of his. When he fences with it you can smell it at least 5 feet away.
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Old 05-27-2007, 05:24 PM   #10
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Go to a local gun store, and ask if there is anyone in the area who does parkerizing. Sounds silly, but out of boredom, I've toyed around with various finished to non-FIE blades. Parkerizing does not kill the conductivity, and lasts longer than black metal oxide finishing that can be done commercially. Both look way cooler than the sTm and other stuff, unless you don't like black or olive drab.

As for cost, I had unwired foil blades done for .12 a pound with black metal oxide, and a little over .50 a pound for parkerizing.

The epee blades have all seen extremely heavy use, and only the black oxide finishes have been less than spectacular, but that's probably due to the person fencing with it being more prone to hack and slash than actually stab.

My two cents.
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Old 05-29-2007, 04:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDG View Post
I expect electrochemical processes would fall under "other methods"
Yes. And then there's that "All methods" part.

"The rule may mention a few examples, but to proscribe those three only when it says "All" is to commit the fallacy of composition." - Exegesis 3:16





Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Fencer View Post
Given that the manufacturers sometimes coat the blades in much the same manner as Eric is asking about, i don;t think that's the treatment being referred to.
Wouldn't you expect that manufacturers have submitted samples thus colored to the FIE for testing and have thus gotten them approved beforehand? I doubt that DIY goes through the same process.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fencerbill View Post
Ted Li has described to a fellow group of armorers how, at the Olympics, they use an electrical process to put an Olympic symbol on blades at equipment control.
Yes, but m.42 specifically mandates that. Again, DIY blade coloring will scarcely qualify as an official inspection mark...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Angwilwileth View Post
A buddy of mine did this to a dry blade of his. When he fences with it you can smell it at least 5 feet away.
It depends on the brand of bluing, I have found. Some pastes especially are quite nasty.

I have blued a lot of steel with Outers cold ( liquid ) bluing solution without olfactory issues.
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inquartata View Post
Yes. And then there's that "All methods" part.

"The rule may mention a few examples, but to proscribe those three only when it says "All" is to commit the fallacy of composition." - Exegesis 3:16



So I am assuming no using of oil, scotchbrite, abrasive blocks or anything else that would keep rust off the blade. Don't worry some of the rust will come off on Inquartata WHITE uniforms. :]

I love the FIE. Their rules allow us to fail almost anything we want to with their vagueness.
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Old 05-30-2007, 05:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHCJr View Post
So I am assuming no using of oil, scotchbrite, abrasive blocks or anything else that would keep rust off the blade. Don't worry some of the rust will come off on Inquartata WHITE uniforms. :]
Excellent point. Yes, strictly interpreted "all" would certainly seem to include all of the above.

As for rust---better rust marks than oil marks.

Anyway, assuming my opponents possess a rudimentary competence there should be marks only on my lamé, which is gray perforce, rather than on my uniform, of which only the ( nontarget ) knickers and socks are accessible.
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Old 05-30-2007, 10:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inquartata View Post
Excellent point. Yes, strictly interpreted "all" would certainly seem to include all of the above.

As for rust---better rust marks than oil marks.

Anyway, assuming my opponents possess a rudimentary competence there should be marks only on my lamé, which is gray perforce, rather than on my uniform, of which only the ( nontarget ) knickers and socks are accessible.
Bold added for emphasis.

Inq...I think it may have more to do with YOUR rudimentary competence. Would you ever parry with your arm? (Oh, wait...do you fence sabre?)
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Old 05-30-2007, 10:56 AM   #15
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Um...who said anything about "parrying with the arm"?

Projecting, are ye?
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