05-25-2007, 01:32 AM
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#1 | | Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 81
| Paul sabre pommel
Hey all,
I just built my first sabre, and I did it from scratch with most of the parts from F.net. I'm pretty happy with it, but one funny thing occurred in practice the other day. I'm using the 17g Leon Paul black "insulated" pommel.
(The one seen here: http://shop.fencing.net/Sabre_pommel...g_p/lp-s78.htm)
I say insulated in quotes because the recessed base of this pommel is bare metal. During a bout my manchette managed to come into contact with the bare metal base and when my opponent parried my attack it registered a point for them. I guess the signal went from their blade, through mine into the pommel, into the manchette and voila, a "point" for them. It is not a big deal as I can insulate the bare patch. The reason I am telling this story is, being my first sabre build, to ask if I have missed anything in the construction of the sabre, or if it is just a fluke and I should insulate the metal part of the pommel.
Cheers,
Xander | 
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05-25-2007, 01:37 AM
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#2 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Charlottesville VA
Posts: 3,091
| Are you 100% sure you were not caught with a whipover in some way? Did you test and recreate the problem for example or are you sort of guessing as to what happened? I have a hard time imagining the scenario you describe. I just can't get it to work in my head somehow...
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05-25-2007, 02:18 AM
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#3 | | Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 10,177
| It depends on your hand position, but it's certainly possible. Is the tang of the blade sticking out any?
Just put a piece of tape over it and you will be fine. | |
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05-25-2007, 10:42 AM
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#4 | | Admin
Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,665
| Quote:
Originally Posted by XanderHal  During a bout my manchette managed to come into contact with the bare metal base and when my opponent parried my attack it registered a point for them. | Xander,
The nut/metal part of the pommel is generally well-recessed in the insulated housing, but I have seen a few where the depth of the recess isn't as great. The quick fix would be to apply a bit of electrical tape as KD5MDK suggested. You could also paint the non insulated part with plasti-dip.
Craig | |
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05-25-2007, 10:45 AM
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#5 | | Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 81
| The tang is not protruding, but it is pretty much right at the base. Would shortening the tang help? Because the tang is screwed into the metal pommel, I would guess that the length of tang wouldn't really matter because it would conduct anyways.
I'll have to give it a try again next practice to see if I can cause it to happen again. I'm not sure how to test a sabre with my test box (it's a paul test box). When I plug it in I get a steady green light. If I bring the aligator clip into contact with the blade, top of the guard, or the uninsulated part of the pommel the light goes red. If I bring the clip into contact with any of the insulated parts, it stays green.
Thanks for the comments | |
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05-25-2007, 10:47 AM
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#6 | | Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 81
| Thanks Craig,
I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I will insulate the part as you suggest, just to make sure it never happens in a competition. | |
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05-27-2007, 08:35 PM
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#7 | | Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 32
| Is your overglove (manchette) really loose?
You could try a PBT pommel. They are pretty sweet. | |
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05-27-2007, 11:42 PM
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#8 | | Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 81
| Considering this is my first overglove, it is pretty hard to say. I'm not quite sure how they are supposed to fit. It is definitely a bit "poofier" than the integrated cuff I've seen on gloves. I think the thumb loop was pulling it up a bit too high so it was getting close to the pommel.
-Xander | |
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05-28-2007, 12:38 PM
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#9 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: I have no home
Posts: 1,965
| If your tang is flush with the base of the pommel that's probably a problem. The tang is really only supposed to be long enough for the nut to actually have something to catch onto; you should at least have enough space to insert an inside hex for tightening into the pommel. Pretty much all saber pommels I've seen have this exposed metal back in the recess. You shouldn't have mush of a problem it unless your overglove is really poofy or your enguarde is somewhat odd. You can always insulate the rest of the nut like people have said but I'd imagine that something else is going on.
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05-28-2007, 04:05 PM
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#10 | | Just Joined
Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: St. Louis
Posts: 10
| I have the same problem, my LP saber overglove sticks out a bit, and up into the uninsulated hole of the pommel... I've always just electrical-taped it, not a big deal, but always something to check on pommels in general...
-alex | |
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05-30-2007, 07:00 AM
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#11 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: UK
Posts: 165
| Quote:
Originally Posted by XanderHal Hey all,
I just built my first sabre, and I did it from scratch with most of the parts from F.net. I'm pretty happy with it, but one funny thing occurred in practice the other day. I'm using the 17g Leon Paul black "insulated" pommel.
(The one seen here: http://shop.fencing.net/Sabre_pommel...g_p/lp-s78.htm)
I say insulated in quotes because the recessed base of this pommel is bare metal. During a bout my manchette managed to come into contact with the bare metal base and when my opponent parried my attack it registered a point for them. I guess the signal went from their blade, through mine into the pommel, into the manchette and voila, a "point" for them. It is not a big deal as I can insulate the bare patch. The reason I am telling this story is, being my first sabre build, to ask if I have missed anything in the construction of the sabre, or if it is just a fluke and I should insulate the metal part of the pommel.
Cheers,
Xander |
same think has happened to me. Just get some electircal tape and cover the bare metal bit, or you could do what I did and paint the inside, but make sure you can still get the alan key it !!! If it continues, get on the box and get someone to hit your guard repeately in diffrent positions and see if it registers if not you probabaly are getting hit with a "whip over/under attack".
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06-19-2007, 06:18 AM
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#12 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: London UK
Posts: 669
| if you look at all other insulated pommels, they are the other way around. We looked at both ways and decided the benifits of our way outweigh the risk of shorting. With the other way the plastic provides little or now support to the metal inner part of the pommel and so over time the plastic can come away from the metal and as you tighten it the metal can start to "drill" into the guard. Our way around the metal pushes onto a large plastic area and spreads the force out protecting the guard and handle. There is some risk of shorting under extreme wrist movements but if you are very worried about it then as mentioned electrical tape will sort it. | |
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