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Old 11-03-2006, 10:05 AM   #1
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Body Cord failure

Ok, so this weekend I had a bodycord fail. I took a look at it and found that the connector for the B-line had turned a very copper-ish colored spot on one side.. It now behaves kindof intermittantly. I sanded the connector, assuming that it was rust and this didn't help. In fact, all of the silver coloring has come off of that connector and the entire thing is copper-ish now. It still works most of the time, but every now and then the B-line won't conduct. Any thoughts on ways to fix this or suggestions for preventing it in the future are appreciated. It's a Leon Paul cord that I bought in June, if that helps any.
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:02 AM   #2
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I was going to say, sounds like a leon paul cord. Try cutting off about half an inch of the wire from the end and reattaching the connector. This usually solves that type of problem. Also, if it is a leon paul body cord you shouldn't have to strip the insulation off the wires, just stick the whole thing into the holes and the screws shuold pierce the insulation.
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:24 AM   #3
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The thing is, it's not the wire that's the problem... it's the connector plug thing that appears to be tarnishing. Or, could the wire be causing this tarnishing?
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If you don't want to lose fencing privileges at USFA-sanctioned events, then refrain from throwing flamagels at those events.
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:28 AM   #4
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http://www.leonpaul.com/armoury/body...ire_repair.htm
The information on the epee bodycords has just been added foil will come later next week. This might help with your repairs.
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Old 11-03-2006, 02:10 PM   #5
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I'm just curious, is this a bayonet or a 2 prong problem? If it's a 2 prong, imo, the b-line is too thin for the socket and sometimes doesn't touch the wall of the socket. Try SLIGHTLY bending the prong. What I've done in the past is to get 2 needle nose pliers and SLIGHTLY bend the prong.
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Old 11-03-2006, 02:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by little_old_me
The thing is, it's not the wire that's the problem... it's the connector plug thing that appears to be tarnishing. Or, could the wire be causing this tarnishing?
Do you know that it's the tarnishing that is actually causing the problem? In other words, have you tested and ruled out the other possibilities?

A skinny prong and broken or corroded wire are much more common than any other problem with the prongs themselves.
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Old 11-03-2006, 05:25 PM   #7
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Also...with LP connectors, try just backing out the screw a bit and retightening it....breaks corrosion free of the connection.


it's called "Leon Paul disease" by some armorers...
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:20 PM   #8
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LP Bodycords..

Here's why my bodycords never fail. Big words but they come from a rather large fencer...that and my armorer friends(Sam, Dolly, Dan) tend to get a mite testy with me since I know them.

First: DON"T STORE YOUR CORDS IN YOUR BAG WITH YOUR WET SMELLY UNIFORMS, PLASTRONS, ETC.

SECOND: store them in a ziploc bag with Silica Gel packets you can get from ramen noodles, OTC meds, etc. If you see them save them and put them in your bag. You can often finnd them on the floor of your local Oriental grocery store too. Don't ask me how I know this. Trade secrets.

THIRD: Really IMPORTANT. I use superglue to seal the ends of the wire after they pass thru the little hole and are tightened down by those piercing screws. This way there is no exposed copper wicking moisture into the sheathing where its difficult to escape.

4th: pull down the rubber sheathing 1/4 inch on the bayonet end and then wrap it with duct tape. Don't go overboard, just enough to go from the end of the red or black plastic, over the black sheathing, and ending on the speaker cable itself. Seals the whole mix from any possible corroding and also protects the wire from kinking.

5th: This is inane but bears repeating. DO NOT clamp your alligator clip onto the wire when storing the bodycord. Clamp it onto the 3 prong connector.

Doing all this will prevent needless whining at the armorer's table.

My **** always works...but then again, that's because its not Uhlmann.

FF

PS: I find that LP wire is a bit thin for my taste and prefer a more robust wire that still, but barely fits in the hole. I use speaker cable from Walmart. Either RCA or whatever they use in cars.
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:48 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by fatfencer


THIRD: Really IMPORTANT. I use superglue to seal the ends of the wire after they pass thru the little hole and are tightened down by those piercing screws. This way there is no exposed copper wicking moisture into the sheathing where its difficult to escape.
Hmmmm...I wonder if my cords will have the same issue. On an LP, the ends are somewhat exposed, even if they are encased in the rubber boot.

on MY cords, however, the exposed end fo the wire is buried deep inside the body of hte pin, and the wire pretty much fills teh pin...it may keep the corrosion down...
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Old 11-06-2006, 07:36 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Purple Fencer View Post
Hmmmm...I wonder if my cords will have the same issue. On an LP, the ends are somewhat exposed, even if they are encased in the rubber boot.

on MY cords, however, the exposed end fo the wire is buried deep inside the body of hte pin, and the wire pretty much fills teh pin...it may keep the corrosion down...
Not likely... a flexible rubber boot on top of the hard plastic housing and your body cord would be perfect.

Even more perfect when you manufacture a bayonet end


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Old 11-06-2006, 08:17 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by fatfencer View Post
Not likely... a flexible rubber boot on top of the hard plastic housing and your body cord would be perfect.

Even more perfect when you manufacture a bayonet end


FF
We're working on the rubber boot design now, for both ends...it was always planned, but modelling it is proving a bit difficult. Onc e it;s done, the cobo of the boot and the placement of the wire c ould hold down quite a bit of corrosion...I'll have to ask Dan about that when i see him at the PDo this weekend...

As for a bayo end...I probably won't make one unless I can improve the design (I don't believe in simply copying a design if I see a flaw i can correct)...for now, any bayo cords I make with my wire and three pin end will be LPs.
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Old 11-07-2006, 12:07 AM   #12
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If you're going to make a bayonet, why not Italian?
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Old 11-07-2006, 02:22 AM   #13
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If you're going to make a bayonet, why not Italian?
Because just about all teh bayo connectors I see out here are the LP type...I have yet to have an italian-style bayo coe across my desk...and even the LPs aren't that common...i need to tihnk about my clientele.

As I b ring more of my own stuff on line and uild a better brand name recognition, I can probably consider a bayo of my own...
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