Demonic possession...a viable diagnosis?

[Morion]

I have been armoring for my salle for almost a year now and I occasionally get what I can only describe as just plain weird problems. For example I replace a broken tip on a foil that was working fine before and it doesn't respond when I test it. I will then clean the barrel and reassemble and it will still not work, but when I install another tip it works fine. Later I will try that same tip that failed in another weapon and it will work without a problem. It almost seems like it is a problem of tolerances where you have to have the right combination of wire cup, spring, tip, and barrel for system to work. These are French tips BTW. Has anybody else encountered problems like this?

[HDG]

I have noticed some interoperability issues b/w brands of french tips, but not rising to the level you're talking about.

[SJCFU#2]

I have noticed some interoperability issues b/w brands of french tips, but not rising to the level you're talking about.

Or even within a single brand - often the result of a supplier farming out work to different subcontractors.

[DHCJr]

A large portion of the time, it is not the tip. Rather it is the spring or screws.

As both of the above says, tolerances are not the best. You might get a nick in a cup and a spring slightly larger wont go all the way down and you get a continuous white light.

The opposite problem can be because of the screws. If the screws are too long they can touch the shaft causing a short.

You don't mention if you replaced the screws and spring when you replaced the tip.

Another thing that can happen is in replacing the tip, the spring twist slightly and drops down into the cup. It now works as if by magic.

But I have had weapons also that I am sure are demonic and I never find out what I did to get them to work. I just hope they stay working.

[larkmaj]

Or even within a single brand - often the result of a supplier farming out work to different subcontractors.

I think Prieur is the best example. Was it 6 different lengths of screws found? The issue of point tolerances is one reason why people may choose german style. I'm not saying the issue doesn't exist there, but at least it's better.

[Purple Fencer]

I think Prieur is the best example. Was it 6 different lengths of screws found? The issue of point tolerances is one reason why people may choose german style. I'm not saying the issue doesn't exist there, but at least it's better.

Nothing more irritating to a vendor/armorer than finding that a specific vendor's parts don't even go together (Sport 7 epee points at times....it's always a crap shoot if the tip will fit into the barrel)

[Joe biebel]

I am assuming that you are talking about Sport 7, or Prieur points, as they are the only French manufacturers I know of. I have had all of the problems described in the previous posts over time. There are just too many flaws in design and tolerance in either tip for my money. I know this will be a repetition of numerous previous posts for me, but I don't care. Get Leon Paul GT foil points. End of demonic posession. Other than cleaning and retaping and a very occasional spring adjustment, these things work until the blade breaks.

[larkmaj]

Get Leon Paul GT foil points. End of demonic posession. Other than cleaning and retaping and a very occasional spring adjustment, these things work until the blade breaks.

Also the convenience of them using the best epee screws, and I do mean epee. The only downside is the significant higher cost, which is why I mentioned german. But yes, GT will solve your problems and then some.

[Craig]

The only downside is the significant higher cost, which is why I mentioned german. But yes, GT will solve your problems and then some.

Cost comparison:

Foil:
French complete point + wire: $8.70

LP complete point (including wire): $11.15

FWF German complete point + wire: $15.50

LP GT complete point w/wire: $15.98

So, the French point is the cheapest, but has a bunch of flaws. For about $2.50 more, I can upgrade to the Leon Paul points and have much better reliability. Considering that I'll blow more than $2.50 on the coke and coffee I drink driving to a venue, it doesn't seem like that much of a choice.

Now, if you have a club that has 50-100 weapons that you would have to convert over if you made the change, then there's a little more cost, but I could help with that.

[Redblade]

By careful study and experimentation (hah!), I've noticed that sometimes the very end of the spring wire can fail to touch both of the tiny contacts because of the slightest twist. ... If you look closely at the spiral of the spring, you'll notice that the end of the wire might not meet its other side after the latest revolution/curvature of the spring, which leaves a gap that can -- amazingly -- just barely straddle the cup contact. Turn the tip a micron to the left OR to the right and everything works fine.

(I hope I explained that passingly well. It's hard to describe without a visual aid.)

Heck of a deal. It can drive you crazy.

[Purple Fencer]

By careful study and experimentation (hah!), I've noticed that sometimes the very end of the spring wire can fail to touch both of the tiny contacts because of the slightest twist. ... If you look closely at the spiral of the spring, you'll notice that the end of the wire might not meet its other side after the latest revolution/curvature of the spring, which leaves a gap that can -- amazingly -- just barely straddle the cup contact. Turn the tip a micron to the left OR to the right and everything works fine.

(I hope I explained that passingly well. It's hard to describe without a visual aid.)

Heck of a deal. It can drive you crazy.

There actually IS a right and wrong end on contact springs...one end is ground flat and is supposed to be the end that hits the contacts...it's very difficult to see, tho.

Of course, it's be better for manufacturers to make both ends identical....but that would make sense.

ANOTHER reason the spring may not make contact even if it's really long...the contacts in the cup may not be even. Insert a reamer, punch, or something else sufficiently flat and tap GENTLY with a hammer a few times....works wonders.

[Morion]

There actually IS a right and wrong end on contact springs...one end is ground flat and is supposed to be the end that hits the contacts...it's very difficult to see, tho.

Of course, it's be better for manufacturers to make both ends identical....but that would make sense.

ANOTHER reason the spring may not make contact even if it's really long...the contacts in the cup may not be even. Insert a reamer, punch, or something else sufficiently flat and tap GENTLY with a hammer a few times....works wonders.

Now THAT I didn't know! Thanks!