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  1. #1
    Senior Member Array MyraTrue's Avatar
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    humidity and rust

    I know that rust is a topic that comes up often. My issue is that I live in a very humid area of the country, and despite keeping wet clothing, sweaty hands, etc away from my blades, the humidity results in a nice layer of rust on my blades. I also can remove rust easily, but I was wondering if someone has a suggestion of something that can be done in an attempt to retard rust formation due to humidity that doesn't involve jacket staining?

    While I am up for using WD-40 and the likes to help remove the rust, it's one more thing that has to come off the blade, because no one appreciates having marks from your blade on their jacket and knickers. Reasonably, I can't imagine PVC or foam etc making any difference. However, maybe someone has more experience than I do. I've just suffered with it every summer so far.

  2. #2
    rac
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    Senior Member Array rac's Avatar
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    My personal experience is much as yours, I live in humid Florida. My best advise is to get the weapons cleaned and wiped soon after use and store inside the house where air circulates, hopefully air-conditioned. The sooner they are out of the bag and lying out in the air the better.
    "Kleptomania. I have that but it's O.K.; I take something for it --Anonymous

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  3. #3
    Senior Member Array epeeisky's Avatar
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    You can get a cannister of DampRid and throw it in your bag. That should get alot of the moisture out of the air.
    A vulture boards an airplane, carrying two dead raccoons. The stewardess looks at him and says, "I'm sorry, sir, only one carrion allowed per passenger."

  4. #4
    Senior Member Array Warrior Princess's Avatar
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    not WD-40

    Try using PryFlo (sp?). It's ment suspicifically to keep weapons from rusting; people usually use it on guns (I don't like guns). Look for it at your local gun shop.

  5. #5
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    i currently live in a dryish area (inland areas of michigan) but i accidentally rusted one of my sabre blades by hang drying laundry right next to where i keep my sabres in their pvc piping -_-;

    i read on another thread about using hoppes #9 which is normally used for cleaning guns.....i might give that a shot....

  6. #6
    Senior Member Array erooMynohtnA's Avatar
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    Any gun oil will work, because they are made to prevent rust. Also, as has been suggested many times, neutral shoe polish will work.

  7. #7
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    Go to a shoe store, systematically open every box and remove the little dessicant packetts (or just ask the clerk for some), and put a few in your bag. Also, If you have PVC sheaths for your weapons, put a cap on the end of the sheath and drop a little packet down in the end. These will help keep your blades shiny and rust free until you can get home and take your weapons out of your bag.

    Since you live in a humid area (I know the feeling), leave your blades in the PVC when you take them out of the bag. The little packet in the end of the pipe will keep it pretty dry in there.

    Also, and I don't know if this is true... I've heard that Maraging blades don't rust near as easily as other blades. From personal experience this seems to be the case, but I dont' have absolute proof.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Array Mergs's Avatar
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    While any gun oil will work, you will, as was said, have just one more thing that can rub off on your clothes. One of the armorers here in the DC area uses silicone car wax with fairly good results. And yes, the DC area can get fairly humid in the summer. Not as bad as the Gulf Coast, but close!
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Array Five Rings's Avatar
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    I started fencing in Singapore - which is tropical. Same issue you had - even worse problems for lame and for mold growing on uniforms. My experience are as follows: (a) wipe off sweat and air dry everything as soon as possible; (b) keep uniforms, shoes, etc. separate from metal equipment (not in fencing bag); (c) make sure your mask is dry (small nicks in the mesh results in rust from the moisture); (d) coat your weapons with some rust retardant (all the suggestions are fine, just make sure that if you are applying to electric weapons, the substance does not loosen or weaken the glue - I am told that WD40 does do that although I have used it before in the past); and (e) take weapons out of fencing bag the moment you get home.

    Some people mentioned getting silica gel or calcium chloride (the stuff for shoes) - just be aware that once these get saturated they are useless. You can dehydrate them by sticking them in the oven (250 degrees) for a couple of hours, or you could go to the kitty litter section of the supermarket and pick up a similar product in bulk (I think its called kitty crystals or something). Fill an old pillow case with this and sew the bag shut and you have a mega bag of dessicant.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Array remise's Avatar
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    I use sewing machine oil. Rub some onto the blade, then wipe off immediately and store. If you do it just like that, the oil won't come off on your opponent's lame, and it REALLY DOES retard rust. I live in a very humid area also - right near Washington, D.C.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Array MyraTrue's Avatar
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    Thanks all, the suggestions are helpful. I was getting frustrated with getting out a blade and getting ready to get on strip, and realizing that that I needed to go clean off the blade before fencing, or I'd mark someone's jacket.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Array restlesscheese's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by remise
    I use sewing machine oil. Rub some onto the blade, then wipe off immediately and store. If you do it just like that, the oil won't come off on your opponent's lame, and it REALLY DOES retard rust. I live in a very humid area also - right near Washington, D.C.
    I do the same thing. Works great for me, and I live a few miles from the oceanfront.
    "I don't get mad... I get stabby." -Fat Tony

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