06-29-2006, 10:58 AM
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#1 | | Just Joined
Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 19
| Blade questions I got my equipment from Blade Fencing maybe a month and a half ago. Despite what everyone's told me on the forum, I went with Blade, mainly because their beginner's set was a good deal. I was very happy with the quality of their products- their mask, jacket, glove and bag are some of the best I've used (Considdering the only things I have to compare to are the generics at our club).
Last night I broke my foil. I knew it would eventually break, but I didn't expect it to happen so soon. Seeing as I've only had the blade for little over a month, I'm wondering if the quality of the work was just not up to par, or if I could have taken better care of it.
I fence twice a week, and I do practices at home to improve on certain areas. Last night I was practicing lunges (The classic "throw the glove on the wall and pin it as it falls" exercise) when it finally gave out on me.
The previous week I had noticed the rust build-up was getting very high (The blade was almost black) and some areas around the break point were developing carbon deposits.
When I broke the blade last night, I was in the middle of a lunge. I had the blade flexed on the wall very lightly (picture an average lunge flex during a bout) when it broke. The break point was approximatly six inches from the tip (Size 5 blade). It scared me because I know I've flexed the blade harder without breaking it.
I'm pretty sure I could have taken care of the blade better. I've heard countless times that there's no way to prevent rusting. However, I'm sure there's ways to slow it down. I've fenced people with perfectly silver blades before, I'm sure there's a way to prevent damage.
The blade was also very cheap too. I got it in the Blade Fencing starter kit (A little over $100)- I know there are higher quality blades. I've gotten comments that my flex point was too close to the tip- that it should be more distributed throughout the blade.
My question... when I purchase a new blade (I plan to buy from eaither Fencing.net or Leon-Paul) what is your recomendation for a quality practice blade?
About my blade... was it due to break? How could I have prevented it from breaking?
Also... are there any tips that can be offered to better care and handling of my blades? Anything I can clean them with? Should I store my blade a special way?
Just any tips and advise you can offer to make my next blade last long and stay strong, would be greatly appreciated.
.....and.... anyone know how to keep blades as shiny as some I see at tournaments, etc. ? Are they a special material... or just brand new? Any cleaners out there I can use to treat rust/scratches, without hurting the quality of the blade?
Thank you in advance!
Last edited by Seraph; 06-29-2006 at 11:07 AM.
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06-29-2006, 11:05 AM
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#2 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chapel Hill, NC
Posts: 1,238
| If by practice blade you mean a dry blade with one of those little orange or red tips on it, I'd just buy something cheap. Buy two. When one breaks, switch and buy another. When you're ready to start competing, throw it away, give it to a friend, whatever, just get rid of it. The only good reason I can find to have a dry blade once you start competing (which will be electric 95% of the time, if not more) is to give lessons. Other than that, the weight, balance, and flexibility are so different from 'normal' electric blades that it's bad practice.
As for longevity, even with nice blades, it varies a lot. And on a final note, if you mean Blade Fencing, say Blade or Blade Fencing. BF to most of us means Blaise Feres (sp?), a French forge which turns out some nice (though quesionably long lived, though I've had no issues there) but expensive blades.
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06-29-2006, 11:14 AM
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#3 | | Just Joined
Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 19
| Sorry... I had no idea BF was already an abbreviation for something else
Yes, I meant dry blade when I said practice. Our club uses dry blades for lessons and bouts (We don't usualy have electric equipment). I've been fencing for a relatively short time, so purchasing electric equipment hasn't become an issue for me, yet.
Thank you very much- I didn't really pay attention to the differences the first time I used an electric foil (I was too anxious), but I'll keep it in mind when I'm ready to buy my own electric equipment. |
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06-29-2006, 11:24 AM
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#4 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chapel Hill, NC
Posts: 1,238
| No worries ^^ I would still say for dry blades to just keep it cheap. I don't think it's worth a lot of extra money for a marginally better dry blade, any more than I would think so for a saber. They both tend to break a lot, in my experience.
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06-29-2006, 11:33 AM
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#5 | | Just Joined
Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 19
| Thanks. As far as dry blades go, do you know which have the longest lifetime? The cheapest ones of most of the major companies around around the same price range... and since budget is sometimes an issue for me, are there any you could point out from personal experience that last at least a good three months.
Also... was my blade due? It only really last a month and a half. I just think that's a little ahead of it's time... |
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06-29-2006, 11:40 AM
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#6 | | Scrub
Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Miami
Posts: 2,453
| Not to rush to Blade's rescue, but this is not an issue of their workmanship b/c they do not forge blades themselves, they are simply re-sellers (sometimes of low quality blades).
For my part, as an afficionado of cheap blades, I have become fond of the Fleche blade (electric) that they and others sell, and you might give some thought to the dry version. If it's like the electric version, you'll get a good value for a modest price. That said, as dry blades go, you can't go wrong with LP. |
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06-29-2006, 12:10 PM
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#7 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005 Location: Louisiana
Posts: 1,179
| A practice blade is a practice blade. I would go with Absolute Fencing Gear or Fencing.net, both seem to have above average quality and customer service.
I doubt that your blade should have broken so soon. Those things last quite awhile. My club has some that appear to be over very old(at least 10 years of begginer abuse).
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06-29-2006, 12:15 PM
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#8 | | Just Joined
Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 19
| 10 years!? Wow...
I always thought I took decent care of my blade. That is, storing it in my bag before/after practice and taking it out when I got home. I've heard that making a case for it is recommended (out of PVC or other non-bending material) but does that contribute to life-span? Are there other small things I could do? And cleanliness... I'd like to try to keep my blade decent looking this time around... any tips? |
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06-29-2006, 12:44 PM
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#9 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Connecticut
Posts: 252
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by Seraph 10 years!? Wow...
I always thought I took decent care of my blade. That is, storing it in my bag before/after practice and taking it out when I got home. I've heard that making a case for it is recommended (out of PVC or other non-bending material) but does that contribute to life-span? Are there other small things I could do? And cleanliness... I'd like to try to keep my blade decent looking this time around... any tips? | Granted this was awhile before, but when I started fencing (non-electrical) in the 1980s, we used blades from the 1960s and 70s that were left over from the coaches' stocks. So, these were 10 to 20 years old when we got them. I was a student then (no $), and breaking a blade was really traumatic (had to replace them with own money). I think I still have one or two left over in my mom's attic.
Things I used to do for non-electric blades - light sanding with a sanding block (from hardware store); WD-40 spray with a wipe down; drying your blade after class - its the sweat and moisture that gets it rusty; keeping blades in a PVC pipe or heavy flexible tubing/hose (my preference, since you can heat seal the end using heated pliers). Another plus of not having rusty blades is that your uniforms are kept cleaner.
MORE IMPORTANTLY: take care of your mask - check for dents, chips, rust; make sure the bib and fabric is dry before you put it away in a bag. Blade breaking is not as bad as having your mask pierced.
I wouldn't be too hung up about having "shiny" blades. Over time, blades get a patina anyway. Just make sure you have functional and safe equipment.
Welcome to fencing. |
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06-29-2006, 03:01 PM
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#10 | | Madness?
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,948
| I usually practice with whatever I'm going to compete with, so I use electrics. However, when I do get practice blades for whatever reason, I like Blue Gauntlet. Blue Gauntlet is unreliable and has poor quality fencing equipment, but I like their practice blades because they're dirt cheap and very light. If you break one, you're not really bankrupted. |
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06-29-2006, 04:56 PM
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#11 | | The Judge
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,103
| if you intend on fencing in a competition any time in the near (a few months, perhaps) future, i would highly suggest not using practice blades. they feel very different from competition blades and it would be much better training in practice how you would be fencing in a competition. |
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06-29-2006, 05:20 PM
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#12 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005 Location: In limbo
Posts: 101
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by erooMynohtnA I usually practice with whatever I'm going to compete with, so I use electrics. However, when I do get practice blades for whatever reason, I like Blue Gauntlet. Blue Gauntlet is unreliable and has poor quality fencing equipment, but I like their practice blades because they're dirt cheap and very light. If you break one, you're not really bankrupted. | I've had my Blue Gauntlet practice blade for well over a year and have used it a couple times a week pretty steadily. I do store it separate from my damp uniform and sand it about once a week. It looks great. |
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06-29-2006, 05:34 PM
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#13 | | Admin
Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,580
| For practice (dry) foil blades, the Leon Paul Etoile is the longest lasting one that I've seen recently. The next one down from that in the Fencing.Net store would be the StM gold practice blade. The coloring provides some protection against rusting - at least until it scrapes off from lots of fencing.
I'm out of stock of the Etoile practice blades right now and will be ordering a batch from Leon Paul once Summer Nationals concludes.
Craig |
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06-29-2006, 06:15 PM
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#14 | | Just Joined
Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 19
| When did you go out of stock?
I just ordered a Practice Foil with a LP Etiole blade earlier today....
Is there going to be delay? |
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06-29-2006, 06:34 PM
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#15 | | Madness?
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,948
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Originally Posted by courtneyp I've had my Blue Gauntlet practice blade for well over a year and have used it a couple times a week pretty steadily. I do store it separate from my damp uniform and sand it about once a week. It looks great. | I do baby my blades, but my BG held up to fencing five nights a week for three years. It only recently broke from a very hard beat from my coach. He offered to replace it, but I told him I thought I got my money's worth. |
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06-29-2006, 06:49 PM
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#16 | | Member
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 34
| Fleche blades hold up pretty well and they're dirt cheap. I just bought a couple from Sword Masters for $20.00 a pop. That being said, there is no guarantee of longevity for a particular blade, no matter the price. Some dogs will get through any manufacturers quality control, and the vendor has no control over how the blade is used...or abused...after it's sold.
Some blades have a reputation for endurance; that's about all you can go by. |
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06-29-2006, 10:00 PM
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#17 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: MA
Posts: 7,367
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Originally Posted by erooMynohtnA Blue Gauntlet is unreliable and has poor quality fencing equipment | It's really not all that bad for the price. Absolute tends to be a touch better, but I think that Blue Gauntlet is far from poor quality, again taking price into account. You get what you pay for. |
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06-29-2006, 11:26 PM
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#18 | | Have Blazer, Will Travel
Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,888
| I understand they've upped their quality since Absolute entered the market. |
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06-30-2006, 02:46 AM
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#19 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 429
| I have posted this before, but good news is worth repeating:
To help slow down rust and improve the life and appearance of your weapons, I have had excellent luck with a silicone gun and reel polishing cloth. 30001_sml.jpg
I just polish my blades with it briefly after I use them, before I put them in their PVC tubes. It works great. Also, the silicone is clear, so it will not leave stains on uniforms like oil will (or the rust itself).
__________________ "All things must pass. All things must fade away." - George Harrison
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06-30-2006, 04:09 AM
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#20 | | Madness?
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,948
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Originally Posted by mrbiggs It's really not all that bad for the price. Absolute tends to be a touch better, but I think that Blue Gauntlet is far from poor quality, again taking price into account. You get what you pay for. | For the price, it's not bad. But, for the price, junk mail isn't too bad either. |
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