Fencing.Net - Your Guide to Fencing & Fencing Equipment

WhipLash · 06-19-2006, 09:51 PM

Hi all

I'm using a BF blue, which has long ago lost it's blue coating. For rust-prevention/cosmetic reasons, i'm thinking of using a cold-bluing kit on it.

Can anyone recommend a good one to use?

Thanks

erooMynohtnA · 06-19-2006, 10:38 PM

You can use Perma-Blue, which is sold at Wal-mart (I don't know about where to get it in Asia). Bluing doesn't really turn the blade blue so much as it does black. However, you can vary your technique to get slightly different shades, colors, etc. It's also a pretty clean process. One word of caution, many cold bluing kits contain selenium dioxide, which is a carcinogen (but only in California, so you're all right in Singapore).

Some people say cold-bluing doesn't help against rust. They're liars. It does, just not very much.

KD5MDK · 06-19-2006, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Some people say cold-bluing doesn't help against rust. They're liars. It does, just not very much.

Heh...

WhipLash · 06-21-2006, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erooMynohtnA

One word of caution, many cold bluing kits contain selenium dioxide, which is a carcinogen (but only in California, so you're all right in Singapore).

Heh heh... so it will transform into a perfectly harmless substance when in Singapore?

but seriously, it's only a danger when in liquid/vapor form and ingested/inhaled right? the dried layer on the blade is safe?

Anyone tried this before?

pinkandgeek · 06-21-2006, 11:22 PM

this may be a little off-topic, but you could always tell your wife (if not applicable, tell yourself) that you will be needing a new blade b/c yours has lost its protective coating and you need a new one (i.e. the best of the best)

erooMynohtnA · 06-22-2006, 01:36 AM

Right, the bluing mixture is the toxic stuff, not what it does to the blade. As far as I know, you just need to avoid contact; there's not a vapor issue. The iron oxide coating it leaves behind is perfectly safe and inert.

Yes, I have tried it before, and I know a 14 year old girl who did it as well without any help or instruction from anything but the bottle. If you follow the directions on the bottle, it's only slightly harder than coloring your bade with a marker, and it's probably cleaner.

Some blades take the coloring better than others. A few might need only five coats, but some might take eleven. At worst, it takes 15 minutes.

And whenever I tell myself I need a new blade, I usually respond that I could use a better job, too.

WhipLash · 06-22-2006, 04:39 AM

thanks. ordered the stuff off ebay. There was a choice between liquid and paste. I chose paste cos it's longer lasting and less messy (i hope). 2oz for $4.66 if i remember correctly.

I'll be the only one around with a black foil!

erooMynohtnA · 06-22-2006, 04:48 AM

I hope it works well for you.

little_old_me · 06-22-2006, 07:22 AM

Let us know how it turns out... if it works well, I'd like to do it to one of my epees.

erooMynohtnA · 06-22-2006, 09:46 AM

You can do it to an epee, but you encounter problems that you don't with a foil or saber. If you're going to do it to an epee, you'll probably want to make sure it's a bare blade. If there's any type of glue on the blade, that part of the blade won't change color, so if it's wired, you'll have a big shiny streak down the middle of the blade where the glue is. Since there's no groove for saber, and the groove is sunken and small for foil, it's not a problem for those two.

Also, I forgot to mention something. If the blade is maraging steel, it should be signifigantly harder to blue due to high nickel concentrations interfering with oxidation (I haven't done it to maraging myself so all bets are off from my end). So, bluing is more appropriate for non-FIE blades.

little_old_me · 06-22-2006, 10:15 AM

Yeah, I assumed it would need to be a bare blade. I've got an Absolute Gold that has been rusty since the day I got it. Much steel wool and sandpaper later, I finally got it clean, but the gold coating is gone. Just thought it may provide a little rust protection.

erooMynohtnA · 06-22-2006, 11:20 AM

The main function of cold-bluing is aesthetic, but it affords more rust protection than bare metal. Plus, it only costs, like, $2.50 for a little bottle that will do four blades or so. You don't really need the de-greaser or protective oil.

WhipLash · 06-25-2006, 09:41 PM

i seem to have a problem ordering off ebay. they said that they will only ship to my billing address.

i hope my maraging blade will blue fine though.

Interesting idea: use rubber cement to create streaky designs on the blade, then blue the blade and then remove the rubber cement. should look quite cool!

pinkandgeek · 06-25-2006, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhipLash

Interesting idea: use rubber cement to create streaky designs on the blade, then blue the blade and then remove the rubber cement. should look quite cool!

not to mock "Whiplash" however, is the look of your blades that important to you guys? to me i have many other things to perfect before i perfect the look of my blade

erooMynohtnA · 06-26-2006, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinkandgeek

not to mock "Whiplash" however, is the look of your blades that important to you guys? to me i have many other things to perfect before i perfect the look of my blade

It's not an either/or proposition. It's not like I either have time to wash my uniform or work on point control (although epee fencers seem to believe that). I like my weapons to look uniform and distinctive, that way I know what's mine at a glance. It's a fun hobby for someone who likes to work with his hands. Plus, I think they look nice.

WhipLash: Bluing kits are fairly common, so I don't think you have to resort to eBay. If you really can't find one, I can just send you what I use. The rubber cement is a good idea for a design on the metal. Anything that covers the steel even slightly will keep the bluing from taking effect on what's covered, whether it's oil, super glue, rubber cement, plastic, tape, or whatever you can think of.

fencinman89 · 06-26-2006, 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhipLash

I'll be the only one around with a black foil!

Unless you see ANYONE with a Vniti...

-Tre'

Alex_Paul · 06-26-2006, 03:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhipLash

i hope my maraging blade will blue fine though.

It will not work on maraging blades I am afraid.

erooMynohtnA · 06-26-2006, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex_Paul

It will not work on maraging blades I am afraid.

I am going to have to respectfully disagree. I just blued an LP Golubitsky Pro maraging blade (absolutely wonderful blade, by the way). It's much easier to put a bad finish on maraging. But with a little care, it can be done.

WhipLash · 06-27-2006, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pinkandgeek

not to mock "Whiplash" however, is the look of your blades that important to you guys? to me i have many other things to perfect before i perfect the look of my blade

No offense taken. Juz like having a nicely designed car with shiny paint doesn't mean you are a good driver, but people still keep their cars in good condition instead of practising their driving don't they? To answer your question, the look of the blade isn't important. Just that I like to do such things.

Fencinman89: Haven't seen anyone here with a Vniti yet. It isn't very popular around here, mainly because most places here import from Uhlmann and Allstar and they don't sell Vniti.

erooMynohtnA: Thanks for the offer. I'm still trying to get them to ship it. Bluing kits are not common at all over here, since the general public don't have access to guns.