06-06-2006, 09:31 AM
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#21 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mountain Home ID
Posts: 808
| Here another method I have used take a screwdriver slotted type or chisel and cut the pommel nut off some pommel can be cutoff with this method what it does is open up one side of the nut and let you pull it off.
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06-06-2006, 10:39 AM
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#22 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: near Boston
Posts: 3,334
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by keropie Back the grip up as far as you can, cut the tang, save the grip, get them to get a new blade and wire, and start over  | $10 grip.
$100 blade.
Now if you could get someone to reliably weld a (different, with good threads)tang back on, maybe.
P.S. or was that a joke? Almost didn't see the smiley.
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06-06-2006, 01:12 PM
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#23 | | Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 10,235
| $10 grip
$25 blade with stripped threading.
Is that different? | |
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06-06-2006, 02:32 PM
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#24 | | Fencing Expert
Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Pennsauken, NJ
Posts: 9,089
| $10 grip.
vs.
$110 piece of modern-art that isn't useful for fencing but sure looks an awful lot like a $100 blade and a $10 grip loosely held together by an irremoveable pommel nut.
-B
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06-06-2006, 02:50 PM
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#25 | | Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 10,235
| eBay doesn't count. | |
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06-06-2006, 03:28 PM
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#26 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Sweden
Posts: 3,086
| Hi! Quote: |
Originally Posted by epeeisky Peter, to buy all the equipment needed for your suggestion would cost more to my clubmate than to buy a new foil and wire, but thanks for the suggestion. If I had the seed money needed for all the stuff I would try it. | A cheap threading die/die stock set costs maybe 25$ in a hardware shop geared to the non-professional consumer here in Sweden. This this is metric, it would probably cost more in USA, but i donīt know by how much. A top-of-the-line threading die for industrial use would be maybe 50$ over here. The Chemical Metal that I linked cost 4Ģ, IIRC. Other costs are neglible - I assume that you already have a Dremel. In any case, a threading die and die stock will last a long time, and there are other uses also. The chemical Metal should last you several times.
Have a nice time!
Peter Gustafsson | |
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06-06-2006, 04:02 PM
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#27 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Chapel Hill, NC
Posts: 1,252
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by fencerbill $10 grip.
$100 blade.
Now if you could get someone to reliably weld a (different, with good threads)tang back on, maybe.
P.S. or was that a joke? Almost didn't see the smiley. | Wasn't really a joke,though I wouldn't give solid advice without seeing it myself. It just doesn't sound like it'll ever really go back together, so I think it's pretty done. Putting hours and hours of effort into is simply increasing the poor investment into the 'modern art' as Brad put it. I guess if it is a $100 blade it's worth a couple of hours looking at it, but it sounds pretty dead.
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06-06-2006, 09:14 PM
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#28 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005 Location: Louisiana
Posts: 1,179
| It is a $30 blade, so it really isnt worth hours of time to save the blade. The blade is also 4 years old. So, the cost vs time analysis goes toward cutting the sucker up and getting a new blade.
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06-06-2006, 09:21 PM
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#29 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,563
| Its a $30 blade? And it lasted 4 years? Buy another.
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06-06-2006, 09:43 PM
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#30 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: near Boston
Posts: 3,334
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by D+F+P=Hadouken! Its a $30 blade? And it lasted 4 years? Buy another. | Before I quit Epee in the late 90's I was using a 1978 and a 1981 that were second hand before I used them for 5 years.
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06-07-2006, 12:28 AM
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#31 | | Fencing Expert
Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Pennsauken, NJ
Posts: 9,089
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by fencerbill Before I quit Epee in the late 90's I was using a 1978 and a 1981 that were second hand before I used them for 5 years. | Does it count if one never actually hits anything with the blade? :P
-B
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06-07-2006, 12:35 AM
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#32 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: near Boston
Posts: 3,334
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by oiuyt Does it count if one never actually hits anything with the blade? :P
-B | I remember hitting you! You didn't always fence Sabre.
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06-07-2006, 01:40 AM
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#33 | | Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 10,235
| Brad's getting old, and you know when you get old, memory goes. | |
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06-07-2006, 02:42 PM
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#34 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: near Boston
Posts: 3,334
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Originally Posted by KD5MDK Brad's getting old, and you know when you get old, memory goes. | No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no (Vicar of Dibley again).
I'm old!
Brad is just older.
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06-07-2006, 04:34 PM
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#35 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Pacoima, ca USA
Posts: 6,102
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by fencerbill No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no (Vicar of Dibley again).
I'm old!
Brad is just older. | But NO ONE'S older than Benge.....
BTW, Bill....I noted that your post count is now 666...good thing you didn't write that last one yesterday! | |
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06-07-2006, 06:31 PM
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#36 | | Fencing Expert
Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Pennsauken, NJ
Posts: 9,089
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by fencerbill I'm old!
Brad is just older. | Come now, I just can't believe this is true. I bet I'm not even catching up to you (other than in a percentage sense), much less have I managed to pass you.
-B
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06-10-2006, 11:01 PM
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#37 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: TX
Posts: 480
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by epeeisky Twisterfencing is correct. I tightened down the nut so I could see the problem spot on the tang, got a flashligh so I could see, and saw that the threads were damaged and worn down extensively. Also, the nut itself was worn. Its hex shape is now more of a circle and the wrench does not grip well. So I think that I am going to have to cut the thing apart and salvage what I can. Thanks for all the help. | epeeisky:
Now that the problem is out, here is just a suggestion on how to salvage what you can.
Loosen the pommel as much as you can. At the space between the blade and bellguard, you should have about 1/8" gap if not more. Right here is where you want to get the trusty hack saw and cut the tang off. Once you have done so, it will pass right out the bottom of the grip (saving the grip). Pop the tip off and your ready to go at another weapon.
Just a reminder: toss the old pommel (not worth saving).
Gary Spruill
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