How to insulate foil grip?

[_fence(1)]

Hello, I've got some foils with aluminium Visconti grips and just wondering if there is a better way to insulate them, besides using some sort of tape.

Some sort of liquid plastic/resin?

Thank you?

[KD5MDK]

Paint should work, and is quite common.

[ReverseLunge]

2 layers of nail polish

[Joe biebel]

I have been using some clear, rubbery plastic dip that I purchased a gallon of. It is really a good insulator and gives me an excellent grip. I will look at the can on Monday when I go back to work. On the negative side, it takes a litle skill to get a good result (following the directions) and the fumes are pretty dangerous without good precautions. The handles will not last long without good protection I have found. I think this is a trade-off for the sticky grip it affords. I have taken to putting ankle socks over my handles when they are being transported with very good results

[Goldgar]

Originally Posted by Joe biebel

I have taken to putting ankle socks over my handles when they are being transported with very good results

A friend of mine uses baby- or toddler-size socks for the same purpose.

[erooMynohtnA]

You can probably get fancy, but paint works all right. Make sure you put some primer on first, or it won't last very long on bare metal.

I use a spray can of a primer formulated for bare metal, and it actually gives a really good grip, because it gets sort of rough when it dries. A couple coats of that does the trick, but I sometimes put a spray epoxy over it. It's supposedly for hard-use industrial applications, but it seems to chip just the same.

[_fence(1)]

Here is what I've found on Google: PLASTI DIP

http://amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000DD1PF/

[HDG]

For good grip, when the paint is still tacky dip it in or sprinkle it with coarse sand then respray. Better yet, just buy some LP grips...

[yeoldearmourer]

I find using the prime for bare mental works then a coat of enamel paint then bake it in a toaster oven for 30 mins at 400 degrees this prevent chipping, and set the paint got the idea from a freind of mine who owns a bodyshop

[JayhawkPawn]

Find a auto-shop that does sandblasting and powdercoating. Ask them if they can throw in your grips when they're doing their next run, powdercoating -never- rubs off, and if you can find a decent shop, it'll be extremely well done, at the low low cost of a case of the powdercoater's favorite beer.

[_fence(1)]

Originally Posted by yeoldearmourer

I find using the prime for bare mental works then a coat of enamel paint then bake it in a toaster oven for 30 mins at 400 degrees this prevent chipping, and set the paint got the idea from a freind of mine who owns a bodyshop

Do you put it in the oven when the paint is still wet?

[Joe biebel]

Originally Posted by _fence(1)

Here is what I've found on Google: PLASTI DIP

http://amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000DD1PF/

This is similar to what I mentioned in my previous post but the small can is kind of useless. A handle (pistol grip) will not fit through the opening and the handles are usually longer than the can is tall so you can't do the whole handle. The gallon can that I bought is wide enough and tall enough (until you do 20 or so handles) to do the whole handle. As I recall it was about $40-$60 for the container (a resealable metal paint can) and as you use enough product to lower the liquid line, you need only displace liquid with heavy objects dropped into the can to bring it back up enough to dip the whole handle again.

[_fence(1)]

For $50 I can buy 3 new Uhlmann insulated pistol grips...

I've also found this Plasti Dip in a spray can:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000943I1U

[Joe biebel]

Originally Posted by _fence(1)

For $50 I can buy 3 new Uhlmann insulated pistol grips...

I've also found this Plasti Dip in a spray can:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000943I1U

I'm guessing you mean painted, as that is what normally passes for insulated. I am not sure how important insulation is these days with the newer machine circuitry. To me, the important thing is grip, even with a damp glove. You can do at least 50 (done at least twenty so far with three coats) handles with a gallon of dip material. It may not be the cost effective, single user solution, but a club or an armorer could make very good use of a gallon. I've purchased and used both the spray product and dip product you show and they are hard to use. They give a good result with a "tougher" coating (protective socks not really needed) than the stuff I found, but the grip is no where near as good. The spray especially is difficult to use, covers very little and requires a lot of coats and the right (safe) conditions to use.

Attached is a photo of a coated handle. I'm not sure you can see the added thickness, but I really like the that aspect as well.

[Joe biebel]

Plati Dip (same company as fence(1) pointed to) is also the manufacturer of the product I have been touting. The product can be ordered from the online McMaster Carr catalog (www.mcmastercarr.com) just type in Plasti dip into the search box and scroll down to rubber coating. It is available in clear and a number of colors. It is amazing how much useful stuff these guys carry.

[Beowulfman6]

All the talk about plastic dips is fascinating, but I just use Rustoleum Professional primaer and paint- 3-4 coats. It provides a hard durable finish, but it does chip off eventualy.

Does anyone know more about baking pinted grips as yeoldearmorer suggested?