The poof of padding on the back of the glove worries me. My first glove was like that, and it had a tendancy to stick outside the bell gaurd.
I would want a version that had no sticky stuff on it at all. At a tourney one time I tried a glove with sticky, and I had very little finger control left.
I do like the extra cuff fabric, as I have to fight to get it closed sometimes. Also, I would get another color. I wouldn't mind a dark purple, but that odd purple would even distract me in a bout.
A vulture boards an airplane, carrying two dead raccoons. The stewardess looks at him and says, "I'm sorry, sir, only one carrion allowed per passenger."
I can't tell from a picture if it would be what I'd like from a glove, but add me in as another person who prefers non-sticky. I like to be able to manipulate the grip easily (I fence sabre) and I've disliked the sticky feeling whenever I've tried a glove that has it.
As to the bulge...I'll have to take a profile pic with someone wearing it. it's not actually that big. What you're seeing is shadowing (the glove was on the floor in bright sunlight...)
One concern pointed out to me on the prototyple I'm personally using was that the padding under the label created a shelf at the knuckles that could catch a point. The delay in getting the gloves out was due to attempting to correct that and not overly reduce the impact protection.
As I said re colors....more variety will be available in the future...speaking of which, what colors WOULD be accaptable? Black is out (even I rememeber that tradition), and white is reserved for the 800N gloves (because you can't dye the Dyneema material).
For personal preferences.. I want moderate-to-high friction, but not tacky (eg, not sticky).
Why? I use a Belgian grip, and I've found the one time I used a "sticky" glove I was not able to manipulate the blade with my fingertips as well. I need to loosen the vertical and back piece of the grip out of my palm and move it with my fingers at the front of the grip. A "high friction" (think sandpaper) glove wouldn't have this problem since once you release the pressure on the grip, it can slide -- but a "tacky" or slightly adhesive grip means I have to open or shake my hand to break the grip of the tacky glove.
How can you tell a glove is not tacky? Press a small square of paper against a warm glove (since sometimes the properties change between warm and cold temperatures of the glove), and then slowly turn it sideways. If the paper stays stuck on, its tacky, not just high friction.
This goes for me too; I want good friction so the handle doesn't feel like it's slipping around in my hand, but definately not tacky! Color realy doesn't bother me. I would wear a purple glove if it was a good glove, but I would rather have blue or dark grey.
"Being a good feind is like being a photographer, you have to search for the right moments."
What's the cuff fabric? Since it looks synthetic, I'll comment that I've had gloves that look similar to yours where the fabric on the back was very weak. Looked cool until I got hit ... and it tore almost immediately.
Well, I LIKE white gloves, and am a big fan of the glove design that has the color part around the thumb area, but the rest is white/off white/grey or somesuch.
My two cents (just based on the picture) -- I'd like to see a longer cuff a la the good old Santelli gloves.
I considered it...my personal prototype actually has a cuff about 2 inches longer. But that would make it necessarry to make a sabre cuff reach almost to the elbow to get sufficient contact with the lame. Not so bad for my OWN sabre glove, but anyone who bought a foil/epee model and then did sabre would have to buy a 2nd glove, because existing manchettes wouldn;t be long enough.
Since one thing I'm trying for is as much convenience for the fencer as possible, better to make the length of the cuff the standard length so a manchette will work properly.
As I said re colors....more variety will be available in the future...speaking of which, what colors WOULD be accaptable? Black is out (even I rememeber that tradition), and white is reserved for the 800N gloves (because you can't dye the Dyneema material).
Red(not bright red, more like maroon), orange, green(dark), and blue are all colors that I think would make good fencing gloves.
A vulture boards an airplane, carrying two dead raccoons. The stewardess looks at him and says, "I'm sorry, sir, only one carrion allowed per passenger."
I considered it...my personal prototype actually has a cuff about 2 inches longer. But that would make it necessarry to make a sabre cuff reach almost to the elbow to get sufficient contact with the lame. Not so bad for my OWN sabre glove, but anyone who bought a foil/epee model and then did sabre would have to buy a 2nd glove, because existing manchettes wouldn;t be long enough.
Since one thing I'm trying for is as much convenience for the fencer as possible, better to make the length of the cuff the standard length so a manchette will work properly.
Once again a few bad apple sabre fencers ruin it for the rest of the class...
that would make it necessarry to make a sabre cuff reach almost to the elbow to get sufficient contact with the lame. Not so bad for my OWN sabre glove, but anyone who bought a foil/epee model and then did sabre would have to buy a 2nd glove, because existing manchettes wouldn;t be long enough.
Or they could just turn a few inches of the cuff under to shorten it so the manchette made contact. ( Naturally, I would NEVER suggest that they wear their glove under the lamé sleeve, or mention that I have never seen anyone check to see if people are doing that. Ahem )
BTW, though I'm tempted to keep still in the name of deterring the stupid ongoing color mania amongst fencers, there MUST be SOME way to color Dyneema, or we'd be unable to have our names and USA logos printed onto FIE jackets and knickers. I don't know about cost issues, but people could always buy white gloves and then color them themselves.
BTW, though I'm tempted to keep still in the name of deterring the stupid ongoing color mania amongst fencers, there MUST be SOME way to color Dyneema, or we'd be unable to have our names and USA logos printed onto FIE jackets and knickers. I don't know about cost issues, but people could always buy white gloves and then color them themselves.
Dye one process...print...compeltly different...to dye fabric it is heated to a extremly high temp to "set" the dye.... Dyneema I believe melts due to the higher polyester thread count...
As I said re colors....more variety will be available in the future...speaking of which, what colors WOULD be accaptable? Black is out (even I rememeber that tradition), and white is reserved for the 800N gloves (because you can't dye the Dyneema material).
I've seen black gloves, though I don't know who makes them.
When's the 800N going to come out? I might hold out for that, depending.
I've seen black gloves, though I don't know who makes them.
When's the 800N going to come out? I might hold out for that, depending.
I was told Dyneema could not be dyed by the manfacturer...pretty authoritative, I'd say.
As for the 800s....as I've said before...when I raise the funds to buy the material....it's very expensive.
Now to some other concerns...and thanks to Leslie Taft of College of the Desert/Desert Fencing Academy...
Top pic is the upper of the glove, then the lower, showing the closure flap...most flaps close right at the hole for the body cord (which is just above the bottom edge of the glove in this pic)
The 3rd pic down shows how much the padding projects from the back of the hand....not a whole lot...bottom pic shows the padding when the glove's in a fist.
I know someone must have already asked this but are you going to be in Sacramento, or is anyone with a sample going to be in Sacramento b/c I'd like to actually see/try the glove myself. It looks like it has a lot of potential but considering I've only ever found maybe 3 makes of glove to be competition worthy I wouldn't be able to tell without actually trying one.
I now dangle to the left....my tassle. Get your minds out of the gutter.
"Martin was not an optimist; he was a prisoner of hope." Optimism is about assuming there's evidence that justifies your outlook while hope is about creating the evidence and procuring your own happiness or vision of the world. - Professor West
Originally Posted by Inquartata 
